1920 hydraulic problem

   / 1920 hydraulic problem #1  

Gabejo

New member
Joined
Oct 14, 2023
Messages
5
Tractor
1991 ford newholland model 1920
My 32 yr old 1920 has begun to barely creep when I put it in gear .No matter which gear I am in. Been 9-10 yrs since I changed last. Not used much so maybe 300 or so hours. I changed oil and filter and no change. Lift will raise properly with box blade but will drop quickly when power is shut off. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem #2  
Might help get some answers if we knew if your tractor has a gear drive or hydrostatic transmission. Gear drive would lead one to the clutch first. Hydrostat could be more involved..
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem #3  
Per tractor data that one didn't come hydrostatic (?)
OP: have you adjusted your clutch free play?
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for reply This is gear driven. I will look at adjusting clutch linkage. Also coming from load side of hyd pump is 5/8 line to what I will call a block under foot rest. The opposite side of block has two 5/8 lines one to tranny and other to lift.On the bottom is a plug it takes 1and 1/16 wrench.Is this some sort of drain or clean out.or is it something that I should not be tampering with!!
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem #5  
Not sure about your slow driving issue, but I just had a young mechanic diagnose my 1986 2110. (Japan made by Shibaura) That "block" may/should have what looks like a slotted screwdriver goes into, the mechanic figured out when it is turned (a few degrees) one way or the other that it sends more hyro/power to the loader or the 3-point hitch. You'll need to find a balance point.
Also look down the page to tractor brands > Shibaura

I will be following this post...
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem #6  
The slow driving would be clutch related as was previously stated, it is a manual 12x4 transmission.

Two reasons the blade drops quickly. The most obvious would be the drop rate valve, located under the seat between your legs is open most all the way. If you can turn it in or off while the blade is up and it still drops, then your lift piston seal in the top cover under the seat is bad.

If it holds in that position, open it up until you have the desired rate of drop for your blade or any other implement.
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Not sure about your slow driving issue, but I just had a young mechanic diagnose my 1986 2110. (Japan made by Shibaura) That "block" may/should have what looks like a slotted screwdriver goes into, the mechanic figured out when it is turned (a few degrees) one way or the other that it sends more hyro/power to the loader or the 3-point hitch. You'll need to find a balance point.
Also look down the page to tractor brands > Shibaura

I will be following this post...
Have the original manual.I’ve never read it very close just look for fluid capacities and such. There was actually a small section that showed that block. The slotted screw should be turned right at about 1 o’clock position if only using 3 pt lift.If you add front end loader or other equipment to block then the slot should be turned left at about 11 o!clock position. Still wondering if that bolt in bottom of block is for a drain or such. My biggest fear if I took it out springs gaskets small steel balls, and such would start flying all over the place. I will unpatienly wait for a qualified answer.Thanks guys for help
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem #8  
Great info, thank you! That bolt on the bottom I think is a "poppet valve" or pressure relief. (my young mechanic friend said) He took out my block-thingy, and took it apart to clean it up. But I don't know if it was the on the bottom or the one facing the rear of the tractor. Look up poppet valve in your manual... under maintenance I would guess.
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Per tractor data that one didn't come hydrostatic (?)
OP: have you adjusted your clutch free play?
Yes I just got around to adjusting that linkage .Says planely in manual to check every 50 hrs. I have put 600 hrs on it and It has never been adjusted. That said that solved my transmission problem. I adjusted it to bout 1 inch free play. Now I having problem with pto not wanting to go into gear even though I know to push clutch down as far as possible.
 
   / 1920 hydraulic problem #10  
Maybe you adjusted the linkage too far. More free play means less total stroke. You might need that "little bit extra" down there to fully release the PTO portion of the clutch.
 

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