1700 Resurrection

[Hooked_on_HP]

As JC stated, start with the high dollar repairs first. You will be suprized how many parts you can find at places other than N/H. You can go on N/H site and get the part # and then Google it. Good luck and keep us posted.
Bill

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

I've compared the pricing on items I've already gotten and by the time freight is included the dealer is cheaper, and only a day or two wait. I'm really impressed with this parts dept, hands down one of the best I've ever worked with over years of cars, 4 wheelers and jet skis. Huge plus is the machine shop is half a mile down the road. Since the tractor is hardly close to civilization, I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row to knock it all out at once. Once I get home this evening I've got a question about alternator wiring, don't have my notes with me. No knocking me when I get around to pics, I'll basically be doing all this in the dirt

 

[JC-jetro]

, I'll basically be doing all this in the dirt

RedDirtDaddy,

Having a flat surface (concrete) to split tractor is very important as front and rear will bind somewhere if grade is not level, need to be able to slide the front forward in direct line is also very important. Being able to join both ends after clutch replacement is very important considering proper alignment of the splined input shaft. You also need clean work surface to overhaul the pump. it seems very difficult to keep the contamination in check working on dirt. Do you have a roof above where you are doing the work? Good luck, It is certainly a doable project but a barn, with cement floor and engine hoist , overhead gantry would certainly make it easier.

I always got a invisible guy that throws a monkey wrench in everything I do, I hope you "don't" get him to visit you.

Jc,

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

RedDirtDaddy,

Having a flat surface (concrete) to split tractor is very important as front and rear will bind somewhere if grade is not level, need to be able to slide the front forward in direct line is also very important. Being able to join both ends after clutch replacement is very important considering proper alignment of the splined input shaft. You also need clean work surface to overhaul the pump. it seems very difficult to keep the contamination in check working on dirt. Do you have a roof above where you are doing the work? Good luck, It is certainly a doable project but a barn, with cement floor and engine hoist , overhead gantry would certainly make it easier.

I always got a invisible guy that throws a monkey wrench in everything I do, I hope you get him to visit you.

Jc,

Understand completely, but have done WAY more than anyone's fair share of wrenching in the dirt. Where there's a will, there's a way!

 

[jones6780]

I did my split in the dirt, it was about level. One thing to look out for is to put a wedge on both sides of the front axle pivot to prevent the engine from rolling over to the side.

Russell

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

Will do! Any other tips?

I did my split in the dirt, it was about level. One thing to look out for is to put a wedge on both sides of the front axle pivot to prevent the engine from rolling over to the side.

Russell

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

Ok, so the alternator currently on the tractor has terminals labeled from left to right; E, S, L, B. S and B are the connector, with black wire going from S to L, and S having a red wire also going to B. B also has a yellow wire going to the starter solenoid, and a light green wire going to the voltage regulator. Terminal E has nothing connected and a dark green wire, that goes back to the voltage regulator, just dangling.

I do know the alternator is not currently charging, and the battery light is on. I don't want to make an assumption, but would the dark green wire just connect to terminal E?

 

[JC-jetro]

Ok, so the alternator currently on the tractor has terminals labeled from left to right; E, S, L, B. S and B are the connector, with black wire going from S to L, and S having a red wire also going to B. B also has a yellow wire going to the starter solenoid, and a light green wire going to the voltage regulator. Terminal E has nothing connected and a dark green wire, that goes back to the voltage regulator, just dangling.

I do know the alternator is not currently charging, and the battery light is on. I don't want to make an assumption, but would the dark green wire just connect to terminal E?

Here you go. This is the way mine is.

JC,

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

Yeah, mine isn't anything like that. Any idea of the outputs of each of those terminals?

 

[JC-jetro]

Yeah, mine isn't anything like that. Any idea of the outputs of each of those terminals?

My cheesy IT FO-44 reports all 1700s have Hitachi alt rather than Nippon Denso,:confused2: so I don't know why yours is not the same. I know terminal A with thick yellow cable is the output F is for Field terminal. F(W/B), N(Y) and E(B) go to regulator. Look at the attached pages that might shed some light for you. Have not had any issues with my alt to dig in to it further.

JC,

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

Thanks for the pages. I've read all about it in the FO-40 but still doesn't mean much. It's clearly a non-OEM replacement. I'll just poke around with it and hope I don't fry anything. Thanks JC!

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks for the pages. I've read all about it in the FO-40 but still doesn't mean much. It's clearly a non-OEM replacement. I'll just poke around with it and hope I don't fry anything. Thanks JC!

Why don't you post a pic of your alt rear with whatever wiring attached to it. Somebody might find a bit of useful info..You never know. Did you follow the wires from Voltage Regulator back to alt?



JC,

 

[jones6780]

Do you know if the alternator is internally regulated? Makes a big difference. Do you have any info on the alternator, manufacturer or maybe a photo? Just a guess here but ,
E is for excite, hot wire to excite the fields.
S is for sensing or Stator, may go to charge indicator light
B is for Battery, should be a heavy wire going to hot battery cable on solenoid.
L , no clue

 

[mostly_gas]

Alternator is external from factory. It is common for people to sub a cheaper alternator with internal regulator.

 

[jones6780]

Any updates??

 

[JC-jetro]

I hope my monkey wrench gremlin did not pay RedDirtDaddy a visit!!

JC,

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

Evening folks! I'm terribly to sorry to have abandoned my thread. I'll post a detailed update when I'm not on my phone with $#%! signal. Haven't had too many opportunities to work on this beast but am close to being done. Quick question, does anyone know a cross referenced replacement bearing for the steering shaft? The one on top of the clutch housing. That's really my last missing piece.

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

So here's the latest and greatest:
Engine was overhauled, new rings and bearings, valves replaced
Clutch replaced
New fluids and filters
New starter solenoid
New (ebay) alternator (not currently hooked up, unsure how)
New battery and cables

Got her all back together but she won't start. She'll turn over just fine and give small puffs of white smoke but just won't catch. I'm using the preheat (key held to the left) and have verified voltage at the plugs. I've bled it a couple of times and it seems to not have any more air.

What am I missing??

 

[rayikeo2]

I think you need to bleed the system again. Follow the link provided and look at diagram. Read my post #6 and 7 (picture) for instructions. If you didn't do everything in these instructions, do it again. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...258-ford-1600-died-know-wont.html#post1730983
After bleeding try to start at full throttle and when it starts lower throttle to between 1000 to 1500 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. It should run fine after that.

 

[RedDirtDaddy]

I think you need to bleed the system again. Follow the link provided and look at diagram. Read my post #6 and 7 (picture) for instructions. If you didn't do everything in these instructions, do it again. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...258-ford-1600-died-know-wont.html#post1730983
After bleeding try to start at full throttle and when it starts lower throttle to between 1000 to 1500 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. It should run fine after that.

Thanks Ray! Gave her a shot this weekend, no dice. I'm getting fuel to the injectors but not through. Pulled them out and connected lines and there's no mist at all. There's nothing that jumps out as to being bad or wrong with the internals, other than the tips having some carbon. Guess I'll get some solvent after the needles and their seats then see what happens.