15 / 16 series block cracks

[jwcinpk]

Have any of you dealers had blocks cracking where the loader subframe mounts to the engine block?
My 3316 is in the shop with a cracked block where the loader subframe mounts, only 145 hours.

 

[Outlander]

This was an issue with some CC Mitsu models. If I remember it was resolved with a brace and bolt tightening. I think the Woods loaders had a pic of the supplementary brace in the parts literature. You might post this on the CC section. You will no doubt get several responses.

 

[wallace]

Been there done that....I own a Mahindra 3510 with a cracked block...
This is an issue on almost all brands...the loader baring box (loader mounts) bolts must be kept tight it is listed in your owners manual to check bolts at ever 25 hours (I think it's 25 hours) I also have a 3015 engine that I replaced because of this same issue.
I had looked at trading a Massey in untill I pointed out the same problem to the potential customer.

 

[UncleBuck01]

Been there done that....I own a Mahindra 3510 with a cracked block...
This is an issue on almost all brands...the loader baring box (loader mounts) bolts must be kept tight it is listed in your owners manual to check bolts at ever 25 hours (I think it's 25 hours) I also have a 3015 engine that I replaced because of this same issue.
I had looked at trading a Massey in untill I pointed out the same problem to the potential customer.

Walllace
I own a older 4110, 2002 , I can not find it in my "OPERATORS MANUAL" except for a generic :
"Loose nuts and bolts----Check daily----Tighten"
Any torque requirements for these bolts ?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Walllace
I own a older 4110, 2002 , I can not find it in my "OPERATORS MANUAL" except for a generic :
"Loose nuts and bolts----Check daily----Tighten"
Any torque requirements for these bolts ?

What size are the bolts? closest american equivalent is fine. I find that if you have good thread engagement [Id prefer around 10 threads engaged in a casting] you can tighten to the full bolt spec and they wont ever come loose if the system is properly designed. I tightened the 18mm~3/4~ gr5 bolts on the ML275 to just short of 300ft-lb. Checked them after 400hrs of very hard loader use on the 7520 with all loaded AGs and I cant move them.

Im guessing your bolts are ~5/8". Those should be 150 ft-lb or a little more. If they tend to loosen go to a higher grade bolt. M 10.9 grade will take well above 200ft# in that size.
larry

 

[mbohuntr]

Thanks for the heads up, I checked both halves on the 2615, after 50 hrs moderate use, they weren't loose, but they weren't tight either. I snugged them up with a breaker bar..

 

[WilliamBos]

Been there done that....I own a Mahindra 3510 with a cracked block...
This is an issue on almost all brands...the loader baring box (loader mounts) bolts must be kept tight it is listed in your owners manual to check bolts at ever 25 hours (I think it's 25 hours) I also have a 3015 engine that I replaced because of this same issue.
I had looked at trading a Massey in untill I pointed out the same problem to the potential customer.

Yet another reason I am happy we did not buy a loader with our tractor...

 

[AchingBack]

I don't understand what is so difficult about opening an operators manual to the maintenance page regarding tractor rail bolts; and following instructions to torque to specifications. If you remove the bolts, one at a time, clean external and internal threads, followed by application of Thread Locker Blue, and properly torqued; you should not have a problem with damage to your tractor. Unless, there is either abuse, or faulty material.

If you follow the above steps, you should'nt have to do it again. Just remember to recheck at specified hours.

 

[jwcinpk]

Why is it when there is a problem with a tractor you get folks who immediately blame the operator/owner = abuse/maintanence. I too thought **** I've let those bolts get loose. I checked their torque as soon as it happened and guess what, they were tight. Plenty tight! I didn't put a torque wrench on them but I know they were as tight as the last time I checked them which was at about 110 hours. Mahindra sent their service rep to check them too! Guess they were tight enough for him. The new engine is on the way, supposedly. I'm still out my tractor for weeks. I'm just hoping it's fixed by Oct 13. I have chickenhouses to clean out. I bought the tractor specifically for this. I thought it beat buying or renting a skid steer. Looks like I may be renting one anyway though. It is my understanding they will be adding some support. All I can say is atleast Mahindra is finding a fix for this problem. I've been on my own to find a fix for the breakages I've had with the 7010.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Why is it when there is a problem with a tractor you get folks who immediately blame the operator/owner = abuse/maintanence.

Aint it the truth?
Does your loader have the subframe/back bracing to the rear? If so, the design interface of the loader/tractor must be sub marginal. Glad they are conscious of it now.
larry

 

[jwcinpk]

You know I don't really remember alot about the subframe design. I've forgotten since I haven't been able to look at it in over 2 weeks. I just assumed someone smarter than me had engineered and built it to last. They may very well have too. Could be a weak casting on Mitsubishi's part. I don't know. I just know it wasn't loose bolts or abuse. Hopefully the added support will keep it from happening again.
These tractors generally have a stellar reputation for reliability!

 

[MrChris]

My '06 3215 has the subframe/back brace to the rear. I thought this also helps with the more stable/solid feeling when using the loader by distributing the stresses to more of the tractor. When I raised and lowered the FEL on other brands and even the 2615 it seemed to shake the tractor a bit more. Anyway, I had a question concerning the bolt sizes being used to mount the FEL frame to the engine. In the loader manual it states 3 metric sizes being used 14-2 & 14-1.5, 12-1.75,10-1.5, all grade 10.9. These sizes should equate to M14,M12 & M10 respectively in the torque chart also found in the manual, correct? And if so, the corresponding torques would be 179,112 & 64 ft/lbs. My ML111 loader is made by KMW Ltd. out of Sterling,KS. American made? Can you believe it!

 

[AchingBack]

My previous remarks about performing loader maintenance were not directed toward any one individual. Rather, I was just thinking out loud. Are we dealing with two different issues: Tractor rail bolts, and loader mounting brackets? I believe we are, and both sets of bolts require intermittent checking.

 

[MrChris]

There also appears to be a torque sequence for the loader bolts, see diagram. I'll quote from the manual" Torque mounting kit hardware in the sequence as shown to prevent stress in tractor casting due to installation of loader brackets". Pretty clear cut. Of course first time I'm seeing this after 105 hrs on the tractor. The only bolts on my tractor that needed retorqing were the longer bolts in the #2 circle. There are two on each side. All the others were quite tight.

 

[jwcinpk]

Still no engine at my dealer. Oct 13th is getting closer everyday.

 

[jwcinpk]

Finally the new engine is at the dealer. Should start work on it this week.

 

[SABULA FARMER]

Just out of curiosity...how did you see the cracks on your block? I went and looked at my 2615 and I dont know how you can tell the block was cracked unless you took it all apart...?
Can you post some pics?

 

[AchingBack]

Just out of curiosity...how did you see the cracks on your block? I went and looked at my 2615 and I dont know how you can tell the block was cracked unless you took it all apart...?
Can you post some pics?

I'm pretty sure it would be quite obvious when a block is cracked, i.e. fluids leaking all over. One thing that should ease your mind; the 3215 has a loader bracket unlike the 2615. My dealer had a 2615 with a cracked block, come in for repairs. The owner had never even done the 50 hour service, or check anything on the tractor. He just ran it until it broke - total abuse. It cost him $4000 to fix it, and he loves the tractor because he knows he neglected it.

 

[SABULA FARMER]

I'm pretty sure it would be quite obvious when a block is cracked, i.e. fluids leaking all over. One thing that should ease your mind; the 3215 has a loader bracket unlike the 2615. My dealer had a 2615 with a cracked block, come in for repairs. The owner had never even done the 50 hour service, or check anything on the tractor. He just ran it until it broke - total abuse. It cost him $4000 to fix it, and he loves the tractor because he knows he neglected it.

So I take it we are not talking about a small hair line crack....did you observe oil and such leaking out of yours?
I am unfamiliar with your model tractor.

 

[AchingBack]

Aint it the truth?
Does your loader have the subframe/back bracing to the rear? If so, the design interface of the loader/tractor must be sub marginal. Glad they are conscious of it now.
larry

We are talking about the cracked block on the 3316, owned by jwcinpk. He didn't mention how he discovered the crack. See post #1.