10K trailer - Gator?

[SethWilliams]

I am looking for a 20’, 10K trailer. It will be hooked up to my 08 Tundra that is able to tow 10,400 lbs. I have a brake controller and am looking into a WD hitch. It will be used to haul my tractor, other farm equipment, and hay.

I have it narrowed down to a gator 10K that I can get through my local dealer for $3,700, or an off brand trailer from Direct Trailer Source. The trailer from DTS is also 10K and costs $3,250. The biggest difference I can find so far is that the gator is powder coated, and of course the name brand. I don’t plan on selling the trailer any time soon, but having the gator name definitely gives me a little peace of mind in case I do sell it. The gator does have a bit of a lip around the side, which I’m not crazy about. The trailer from DTS is flat with no lip.

I’m not opposed to other trailer brands, but I don’t have many other brands at dealers around me. I’m not opposed to driving to look at one if someone has a favorite.

Btw, here is a pic of a 14K from DTS.

 

[Deere Dude]

I never heard of Gator or DTS but for me, I like powder coating provided it is applied right. Many trailer guys would rather have just spray painted covering. I would get the spray coated trailer and hope for the best.

 

[Fallon]

My old tilting deck had a 4" tall lip around the front & sides of the deck. I detested it. Tilting decks already aren't great for side loading anything due to the fenders. That lip prevented you from getting anything on or off with pallet forks unless you stacked another palet underneath.

Trailer was good for an auction score. Got rid of it as it was to short. The rim around the deck always irked me though. Handy when I temporarily made it a stake side for some manure hauling , but otherwise in the way.

 

[GeneD14]

I bought a 20K Gatormade trailer in July. It is hands down the best trailer that I've owned. (I've owned 4 trailers of similar size)
I liked it because of the powder coat paint, LED lights were standard, easy steps to get on and off, spring loaded ramps, dual jacks, built in chain box and Gatormade arranged financing.
So far I'm very happy with it.

 

[JD 4520]

Load Trail is my choice trailer.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Look at both trailers closely. Look at the size and thickness of perimeter. The size spacing and thickness of the cross members. Check the quality and size of the tires. Check the brake size and that both axles have brakes. Don't buy a trailer without LED lights. Check the size and quality of the jack. After that I think it will be clearer which is the better trailer for you.
I have a trailer with the lip around the sides and don't like it.

 

[SethWilliams]

Thanks guys. I agree about the lip - I would like to avoid it if possible as I see no real benefit to it. I know both trailers have brakes on both axles and I definitely want LED lights as well. I did not crawl under either trailer to look at the cross members, but I will do that.

 

[Tomtint]

I have a 20' full tilt with the lip.. If I did it again, I would look for one with no lip. As others have said, look at the specs on both units you are considering. I find that tires are one place trailer mfrs skimp on to keep the price low..then you end up spending more in a short time replacing them. I also look for how they ran the wiring...if it's just zip tied here and there..i think that shows poor attention to detail. ...02

 

[George2615]

I have a 22' 14K PJ full tilt trailer and like it a lot. No lip, is powder coated, LED lights, and brakes on both axles. It is long enough to sideload pallets on the front.
Check out PJ trailers. There should be a dealer near you.
I've heard Gator is a good brand but have never seen one in my area. Never heard of DTS so can't comment on them.

 

[fried1765]

I am looking for a 20’, 10K trailer. It will be hooked up to my 08 Tundra that is able to tow 10,400 lbs. I have a brake controller and am looking into a WD hitch. It will be used to haul my tractor, other farm equipment, and hay.

I have it narrowed down to a gator 10K that I can get through my local dealer for $3,700, or an off brand trailer from Direct Trailer Source. The trailer from DTS is also 10K and costs $3,250. The biggest difference I can find so far is that the gator is powder coated, and of course the name brand. I don’t plan on selling the trailer any time soon, but having the gator name definitely gives me a little peace of mind in case I do sell it. The gator does have a bit of a lip around the side, which I’m not crazy about. The trailer from DTS is flat with no lip.

I’m not opposed to other trailer brands, but I don’t have many other brands at dealers around me. I’m not opposed to driving to look at one if someone has a favorite.

Btw, here is a pic of a 14K from DTS. View attachment 573824

If you are SURE you will NEVER chip the paint, then get a powder coated trailer.
If you do chip the powder coating, rust will creep underneath the powder coating, and the coating will eventually come off in slabs.
Powder coating is durable,.....until it gets chipped!
Ideally, a two part epoxy paint would be the best coating, but I have never heard of a trailer maker that offers it.

I have a 14K trailer by "Quality Steel & Aluminum"
In your case, I would go with the "DTS" trailer.

Just noticed that the "DTS" trailer does not appear to have tie down rings.
You NEED tie down rings, ideally every two feet, each side.
Stake pockets are not adequate for tie down.

I would recommend an "Equa-l-izer brand hitch. I use their 14K model.

 

[sandman2234]

I would be interested in hearing why "Don't buy a trailer without LED lights" is a factor. Yes I realize that they draw less amps, and I actually own a Big Tex 20+5 gooseneck trailer with LED lights, but I also own several trailers without LED lights that have given me very good service for many, many years. My last tractor hauling trailer had the standard replaceable lights used by trucks for years prior to the "LED movement" and they were easily replaceable, and CHEAP to buy when they went out. Can you say that about any LED light?
David from jax

 

[crazyal]

I like to modify things. When it comes to trailers I find they often skimp For trailers I usually weld stainless steel bolts to the frame near the lights and brakes for a ground that never fails. I also like to put the wires in a conduit vs clipped to the frame. Also look at the brand of the axles. Make sure they are ones you can easily find on the internet. Sooner or later you will need parts (like brakes). While the internet is great for getting almost anything it's not so great if it's a Friday afternoon and you need to use the trailer Saturday. Local dealers are much more likely to have what you will need in stock depending on the brand.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

I would be interested in hearing why "Don't buy a trailer without LED lights" is a factor. Yes I realize that they draw less amps, and I actually own a Big Tex 20+5 gooseneck trailer with LED lights, but I also own several trailers without LED lights that have given me very good service for many, many years. My last tractor hauling trailer had the standard replaceable lights used by trucks for years prior to the "LED movement" and they were easily replaceable, and CHEAP to buy when they went out. Can you say that about any LED light?
David from jax

LED lights are much more trouble free. In a damp climate the lights get moisture inside. That corrodes the socket and the bulb losses it's ground. Also makes the bulb hard to replace. You can clean it up temporarily but end up replacing the whole light. This of course happens when you are ready to go. It happens most often when the trailer sits for awhile.
LED lights are sealed and don't have these problems.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

The sealed incadecent lights are better than the non sealed but they burn out too. And not a lot cheaper than the LEDs. I have yet to change out an LED except when they got knocked off. So led is cheaper in the long run.

 

[AllDodge]

I see a lot of gators and know a few that have owned them. Know some that love them and also know some that would never own another. I'll just say, when looking at trailers don't just walk around it, wear your work clothes and crawl under them. Look real close at the welds and how its made. You don't have to be a welder but it does help. See if the cross braces are weld on both sides and show some penetration, not just look like a round bead and doesn't go the entire length

Do they have a named brand axle and brake system or some across the pond name

 

[aczlan]

Stake pockets are not adequate for tie down.

Why not? Most of the flatbed semi trucks rolling down the road use them for tie downs.

Aaron Z

 

[AllDodge]

Have to agree, stake pockets not adequate
Better not say anything to all those truckers on the road. That's all I use to chain down my backhoe and dozer on my 10 ton tag trailer

 

[newbury]

If you are SURE you will NEVER chip the paint, then get a powder coated trailer.
If you do chip the powder coating, rust will creep underneath the powder coating, and the coating will eventually come off in slabs.
Powder coating is durable,.....until it gets chipped!<snip>

I think a GOOD powder coating should not do this. But I've seen many powder coatings that are basically "easy peel". At least it is easy to get all the old paint off.

 

[1010]

I'd go gator! Or buy as much trailer as I could afford within reason. I've used bumper pull for ever and just got a 20+5 gooseneck, with a metal angle iron dove tail, 3 fold up ramps, two 10K jacks. Stake pockets and bump rail. It's everything I was looking for. USED $4500. I love it, and so glad I was patient on looking.

What I'd look for, 2 7K dexter axles, brakes on both axles. ezlube hubs and 16 inch wheels.
Stake pockets are wonderful with a bump rail around the bed.
You drop a chain through the pocket and hook the pocket edge furthest away from the load. It won't slide either.
This is what MSDOT looks for. If the chain was to get slack for some reason the load is still hooked since gravity holds the hook on the stake pocket.
And if you needed a wood rail for mulch or a parade float haha,, it could be used for many purposes when hauling other materials.

 

[Fallon]

Have to agree, stake pockets not adequate
Better not say anything to all those truckers on the road. That's all I use to chain down my backhoe and dozer on my 10 ton tag trailer

I'll kind of agree. It's just a pain to get chain though stake pockets at times & really hard to get it properly tight. Even non-sharp corners can destroy straps quickly when tightened down.

Most stake pockets are beefy enough, but it's a usability issue. There is an easy solution there though
PJ Trailers Heavy Duty Stake Pocket D-RING Rated 11,780 lb., Pack of 4 Amazon.com: PJ Trailers Heavy Duty Stake Pocket D-RING Rated 11,78 lb., Pack of 4: Automotive