1020 gas can't keep it running

[denchen]

Crazy I know, but is the inlet valve opening and closing as it should.

 

[Sedgehammer]

what are you calling the inlet valve?

 

[Peter 315]

what are you calling the inlet valve?

I think he means intake valves.....:2cents:

 

[Sedgehammer]

If so, yup. When it runs briefly, it runs smooth.

 

[Bayfisher]

post up side view of the carb as it is installed.

 

[denchen]

Sorry guys, but Yea you call it the `intake` we use inlet and exhaust. The thinking was that if the valve was sticking partially open when warm.

 

[defranks]

Sorry guys, but Yea you call it the `intake` we use inlet and exhaust. The thinking was that if the valve was sticking partially open when warm.

Several years ago I took a trials motorcycle class taught by a British world champion. He was talking about tire pressure and used the term "bar". I really enjoyed telling him that he was wrong, tire pressure is measured in PSI. He took me seriously for a few seconds, but caught on very quickly. By the way, I also learned that my motorcycle had some kind of basic defect. HIS bike was able to do all kinds of magical feats of rock climbing, tight turns, and log-leaping, while mine kept falling down when trying the same stuff.

 

[denchen]

Ha Ha. Yea we all talk the same language differently. For `tyre` pressure we sometimes use psi, but sometimes Bar. One bar is about 15 psi, or about one atmosphere, that's about 14.7 psi, but talk to the guys in Australia/New Zealand, and they might even talk `Pascals`.

 

[Sedgehammer]

Several years ago I took a trials motorcycle class taught by a British world champion. He was talking about tire pressure and used the term "bar". I really enjoyed telling him that he was wrong, tire pressure is measured in PSI. He took me seriously for a few seconds, but caught on very quickly. By the way, I also learned that my motorcycle had some kind of basic defect. HIS bike was able to do all kinds of magical feats of rock climbing, tight turns, and log-leaping, while mine kept falling down when trying the same stuff.

 

[Sedgehammer]

post up side view of the carb as it is installed.

Not sure what you mean, but here's these. Let me know if you need something different. Thanks

 

[Zebrafive]

I am those thinking you have blocked internal passage in the carb. You might try soaking the carb body (disassembled) overnight in a carb cleaner. Gunk, sold a pail of this cleaner that has "dip" basket.
Rather than spraying ether, I have put gas in spray bottle that has an adjustable sprayer that lets you adjust for a mist rather than a stream. It's easier on the engine than ether.

 

[Sedgehammer]

Yup, doing that currently.
Either can be bad, I've used it extensively over the years, but yes it can be hard on it if you're not careful. What i like about either is the metal can.

 

[Bayfisher]

in the carb repair kit should have been an instruction sheet with all the settings [ per carb # ] for the float level and drop, the idle mixture adjustment,the main fuel adjustment and idle speed.

the float level and drop setting must be correct for the next 3 settings [ main jet, idle mixture and idle speed ] to get the engine started in an
adjustable state.

before starting the engine set the main fuel [ A ] at 1.0 turns out, set the idle mixture [ B ] at 2.0 turns out, and idle speed @ 600-700 rpm.

once started adjust the main jet to establish a smooth idle, the goal is to have a clean start-up and smooth throttle up, once that has been set adjust the idle speed, then the idle mixture.

 

[Sedgehammer]

in the carb repair kit should have been an instruction sheet with all the settings [ per carb # ] for the float level and drop, the idle mixture adjustment,the main fuel adjustment and idle speed.

the float level and drop setting must be correct for the next 3 settings [ main jet, idle mixture and idle speed ] to get the engine started in an
adjustable state.

before starting the engine set the main fuel [ A ] at 1.0 turns out, set the idle mixture [ B ] at 2.0 turns out, and idle speed @ 600-700 rpm.

once started adjust the main jet to establish a smooth idle, the goal is to have a clean start-up and smooth throttle up, once that has been set adjust the idle speed, then the idle mixture.

I didn't rebuild the carb. neighbor did. He's usually pretty good at doing this type of things. Once the carb is done soaking, will set it per your info.

Thanks to everyone for your help thus far.

 

[AWSubie]

http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Cleaning-Carbs.pdf

The link above is an excellent review for cleaning carbs.

 

[Sedgehammer]

:thumbsup:

 

[Sedgehammer]

No better after the soak and blow. Will have carb professionally rebuilt I'm thinking. Least wise will know that part is not the issue if it doesn't fix it.

 

[defranks]

Wow! That's amazing. The carb looks to be just about as simple as can be.

Is there any chance that there's a loose wire in the ignition circuit that vibrates when the tractor is running? Logic says the carb is the problem, but it seems like you've done all you can to eliminate that.

 

[Clint S]

This needs to be done if it has not been done. Soaking or blowing out any not get everything out.

I just went through a similar exercise on my Ford 2N; I had rebuilt the carburetor and the tractor ran essentially the same as you are describing. In my haste to get the tractor up and running again I skipped the step of chasing the passageways in the carburetor with a brass or aluminum wire when I was rebuilding. There must’ve been an obstruction because after I removed the carburetor for a second time and chased the all the passages, the tractor ran fine.

 

[LouNY]

How loose is the butterfly shaft in the carburetor, a worn shaft and carb bore can be a major vacuum leak.