Push over trees with a small compact?

[CalG]

Oh, c'mon. All you need is a snatch block used in reverse, doubling the amount of cable it can pull.

Can I get one of those "pull extenders" from an interweb discount outlet?

 

[CalG]

Probably shouldn't be using a steel line at all, not enough stretch.
Suggest
View attachment 3552619
keeps pulling even after you stop

Myself, I want no stretch when directing a tall tree down. I want to know exactly how much effort it's taking to displace the tree in the direction I want it to fall.


I trust gravity that much! And my hinge cuts just a little less ;-)

It's the wind that really gives me concern.

 

[WinterDeere]

Myself, I want no stretch when directing a tall tree down. I want to know exactly how much effort it's taking to displace the tree in the direction I want it to fall.


I trust gravity that much! And my hinge cuts just a little less ;-)

It's the wind that really gives me concern.

Different scenarios, in my view. When just holding a tree to protect an obstacle, and using wedges and/or gravity to push it over, then yes... no-stretch line is best.

But when pulling a tree up and over it's point of balance, the classic "reverse leaner", I can see where ning's stretchy-rope argument has merit.

 

[WinterDeere]

Myself, I want no stretch when directing a tall tree down. I want to know exactly how much effort it's taking to displace the tree in the direction I want it to fall.

Agreed. This goes along with my dislike of cutting into a tree when any line on it has been pre-tensioned. It increases probability of barber chair, as mentioned several pages back.

 

[CalG]

Agreed. This goes along with my dislike of cutting into a tree when any line on it has been pre-tensioned. It increases probability of barber chair, as mentioned several pages back.

I learned long ago..

"There are as many was as there are men!"

And that is a salute to the many men in the world!

 

[Windblown]

Ropes with lots of stretch are great for climber fall arrest or using a rubberband effect to pop stuck vehicles out of mud but I'll stick with the consistency of a stout 3/4" static bull rope with a 5-1 fiddleblock pulley block attached for dropping trees. I use the same set up even if I plan on pulling with a truck or tractor.

Fiddleblock attached to bull rope.

Fiddleblock attached to anchor.

As for the well covered subject of pushing over trees with a compact tractor - Yeah no, LOL.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I have a professional cut some trees for me here, fairly large like 2ft-3ft diameter but in dangerous locations. He uses a compact Massey Ferguson tractor and has a very large chipper (don't know brand, but V8 Ford gas motor). So 3 guys and maybe 2-3 hours or so, $500. He throws a sandbag high as possible, parachute cord pulling up 100+ft large rope. Tractor way back and notches, cuts close to ground with tractor guy having rope tension increasing with cut.
He leaves chips I can always use. Never leaves a mess. $500 to me is well worth not getting injured & I cut the others myself.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I have three trees to cut now I just saw near creek. Wind snapped them off up about 15ft, rest is on ground so easy to do, just has to get cooler weather.
I don't mind paying for dangerous ones anymore, not worth getting injured.

 

[JasperFrank]

The US is a huge place with different soil types. If your soil is sand you can knock over anything. Other places, not so much.

 

[404nouser]

My personal cut won't do it, but the bigger machine I used last time.
I just worked the bucket under the roots and moved the tree, then back fill and smooth.
Tears up a 9' wide swath for each one, but 2' diameter trees are no problem for a loader if you work at them a little.
The 644 is faster to road to my place than a dozer, and I don't usually feel like loading on a trailer.