BX2200 -- will almost start

[terpdog]

OK, I got it running tonight.. bottom line == most people were right Stop/Start Fuel Solonoid

It was a different symptom than before so yeah, I assumed that wasn't the problem(plus I've replaced it twice and I only have 1000 hours on the tractor -- it -fing can't be that).


It was.. on the plus side, I did replace the fuel filters, the air filter and did check the glow plugs and all are good I even found the oil sensor wire that had broken and fixed that one.

Thank you all.. and yep most were right.. solenoid

 

[terpdog]

any good source for "better parts" I got one from the dealer and one from an online place.. either way I'm annoyed at the quality of this part.


Or.. maybe there is a part that I can manually manipulate.

 

[Eagle1]

any good source for "better parts" I got one from the dealer and one from an online place.. either way I'm annoyed at the quality of this part.


Or.. maybe there is a part that I can manually manipulate.

First thanks for posting the solution. It helps everyone to know how a problem was resolved.

As for better parts, the factory one at $160 does not appear to last a lot longer than the $25 Chinese after market. At times I have been able to pull the solenoid, clean, oil and get another few month/year of service while a replacement sits on the shelf until needed. I think in 4500 hours I am on number 4 or 5. Like anything better would cost a premium over the factory cost....To me easy enough to change ever 4 or 5 years.
I have a Honda that has a factory voltage regulator that likes to burn up. There is a $15 aftermarket that last just a long or a much much better one for $150. That machine is 30 years old, and I just put a new regulator (one on the shelf) in every 4 years or so when it fails. Again one plug and 2 bolts and I'm dollars ahead. Not much different than batteries these days.

 

[terpdog]

First thanks for posting the solution. It helps everyone to know how a problem was resolved.

As for better parts, the factory one at $160 does not appear to last a lot longer than the $25 Chinese after market. At times I have been able to pull the solenoid, clean, oil and get another few month/year of service while a replacement sits on the shelf until needed. I think in 4500 hours I am on number 4 or 5. Like anything better would cost a premium over the factory cost....To me easy enough to change ever 4 or 5 years.
I have a Honda that has a factory voltage regulator that likes to burn up. There is a $15 aftermarket that last just a long or a much much better one for $150. That machine is 30 years old, and I just put a new regulator (one on the shelf) in every 4 years or so when it fails. Again one plug and 2 bolts and I'm dollars ahead. Not much different than batteries these days.

Yeah, the last time i did the OEM one.. and one of the reasons I figured it would last longer hence my.. it sure as heck isn't that.. it's OEM and new.

it is super easy to replace and at least I've gone over everything else fuel and starter wise

Honestly, it seems like a fantastic "manual part" push it one way turn it off.. push it the other way turn it on. But, then why would we need those electronics!

 

[Chewwy]

Yeah, the last time i did the OEM one.. and one of the reasons I figured it would last longer hence my.. it sure as heck isn't that.. it's OEM and new.

it is super easy to replace and at least I've gone over everything else fuel and starter wise

Honestly, it seems like a fantastic "manual part" push it one way turn it off.. push it the other way turn it on. But, then why would we need those electronics!

The older machines with manual fuel shutoff do not have this problem.

Keeping things simple (K-I-S-S principle) is an advantage for the end user. Not so much for the supplier selling replacement parts at exorbitant prices.

 

[Eagle1]

If someone wanted a manual you could just drill or other wise dieassemble an old bad solenoid and extend/replace the plunger after removing the spring at the back. Just have to push and hold until it stops. Ready so start once you release it. Would not be hard to make it cable operated from the dash....
Me I'll just stick a new one in when needed, takes more effort to remove the side panel than changing the part.

After many years of dealing with OEM supply chains, I know they use the same $10 part you can buy for $20 but after the supply chain handles it for the local dealer he pays a lot more and then at least double his cost to pay his bills.

 

[mjonesnh]

If someone wanted a manual you could just drill or other wise dieassemble an old bad solenoid and extend/replace the plunger after removing the spring at the back. Just have to push and hold until it stops. Ready so start once you release it. Would not be hard to make it cable operated from the dash....
Me I'll just stick a new one in when needed, takes more effort to remove the side panel than changing the part.

After many years of dealing with OEM supply chains, I know they use the same $10 part you can buy for $20 but after the supply chain handles it for the local dealer he pays a lot more and then at least double his cost to pay his bills.

Growing up my dad had a ford 2000 super dexta that had that exact linkage. A cable from dash cut the fuel. Remember him telling me to " turn the key off first and then pull the fuel cutoff knob that way you won't forget to switch off key.

 

[terpdog]

first part arrived.. starts right up.. but then shuts right down.. the plungers goes right back down when the key is in the running position :-(

 

[Eagle1]

first part arrived.. starts right up.. but then shuts right down.. the plungers goes right back down when the key is in the running position :-(

Check for power on the connector one should be hot with start another in the run position. The third is ground. There was batch out there for Yanmar (same part) with the wiring different. 2 pins switched on the solenoid side.... could be your problem.

Let me find the details been a minute...

 

[Eagle1]

White wire should be start voltage 12v while starter is engaged
Red/Black should be run voltage 12 when in Run position
Black is Ground.

Make sure that solenoid is grounded through the black wire and it connects to the black wire on the tractor.