Engine loses power

[careyo63]

Filled it with gas and no difference. It did have 3.5 gals so i don't think that was it. It has a brand new gas tank but I used the old cap. I'll try a different cap and then start backtracking thru the fuel shut off (also new) and then the carb.

Try starting fluid or Either since it's gas. How I found out quick it was a fuel problem. Not on my Diesel though

 

[NUTTERDW]

Is the fuel tank full?

I don't have experience with an 8n but my old Farmall has gravity feed from the gas tank and if the gas is low it will act like that. More than once I have backed up a hill when it stalled.I first though that you may have a restriction in the fuel line but the fact that it backed up the hill pretty well answers that question.

 

[POGuy]

I checked the floats and they looked fine. Throttle linkage and governor linkage looked fine. Put it back together and went to drive it around with similar results, any slight uphill causes it to stutter and cough and then die. BUT! when it died, I restarted at idle and then throttled up halfway and backed down to level ground. No problems. Got curious and backed up a much steeper hill and it had full power all the way up! Did it 3 more times with full power each time. I could hear the governor apply power as it climbed so I don't think the governor is the problem anymore and it likely isn't ignition so I am left with carb or fuel? Any idea what to check to find out why I have power uphill in reverse and not nose first? It has me baffled.

Make sure the points and condenser screws are really tight. Back in the 70's I had a chevy belaire that I would tune up myself. AC Delco came out with the "uniset" which combined points and condenser on one metal plate. After i particular tune up when I couldn't locate a uniset, I swapped back to the original set up and forgot to tighten the condenser screw properly. Once the car bucked or bounced it set in motion a constant bucking that was caused by the condenser, now suspended only by the wire to bounce in a rhythmic fashion only touching ground occasionally. I don't want to be reminded of everything I went through till I pulled that distributer cap back off !!

 

[jimjumper]

I think I've solved it. Since uphill backwards was full power that would eliminate the tank and fuel line. Same with the carb fuel filter. Checked the air intake for obstructions and nothing. Ordered new, better quality, carb and installed. Set the needle adjustments exactly as the FO-4 says. Started it and idle was good, backed power needle a half turn and bingo! Just ran it for 10 minutes and it ran great uphill, downhill, and under load. I'll put some time on it tomorrow just to nmake sure it wasn't a fluke but I at least know where to start if it does it again.Thanks for the help and suggestions!

 

[jimjumper]

Damn, I hate it when I'm stupid! I was using ti mowing with it running fine and hit a big squirrel mound in the brush. Tractor quickly! bogged down and died. Restarted pretty easily but when I ran it to full power it started popping and running rough again, in both forward and reverse. I don't really know why it affect the carb but since it was running smooth just before, I'll pull the carb and check. Or may be the governor bent something?

 

[Richard001]

Damn, I hate it when I'm stupid! I was using ti mowing with it running fine and hit a big squirrel mound in the brush. Tractor quickly! bogged down and died. Restarted pretty easily but when I ran it to full power it started popping and running rough again, in both forward and reverse. I don't really know why it affect the carb but since it was running smooth just before, I'll pull the carb and check. Or may be the governor bent something?

The sudden engine stop may have caused the cam timing to jump a tooth or two. I'm not failure with the 8N, but if it has a timing chain, it could be worn out and needs replacing.

 

[jimjumper]

Put the new carb on it but while it made some difference it still starts to run rough under load. I put a spark checker on it and discovered that while it sits at idle I get an orange steady spark but pick up the rpm's and the spark gets erratic to non-existent. I only checked one cylinder since it was hot but I'll check all 4 tomorrow. The tractor had a bad generator when i started this renovation and the current 6-volt system has been rebuilt to the system on a 9-N with a brand new cut-out switch and generator. The guy that I purchased the generator from was meticulous in the directions on how to wire it that way and I confirmed with him thru pictures that it is wired correctly but now I am having doubts. The ammeter shows +9-10 amps when running at full power but since I am only getting an orange spark I am assuming I am not getting full power to the plugs? I also assume that I should work that first before I pull the distributor and make sure the timing hasn't jumped as some have suggested. What would cause low power to the plugs? The battery stays charged and I haven't had problems starting it.

 

[CalG]

Put the new carb on it but while it made some difference it still starts to run rough under load. I put a spark checker on it and discovered that while it sits at idle I get an orange steady spark but pick up the rpm's and the spark gets erratic to non-existent. I only checked one cylinder since it was hot but I'll check all 4 tomorrow. The tractor had a bad generator when i started this renovation and the current 6-volt system has been rebuilt to the system on a 9-N with a brand new cut-out switch and generator. The guy that I purchased the generator from was meticulous in the directions on how to wire it that way and I confirmed with him thru pictures that it is wired correctly but now I am having doubts. The ammeter shows +9-10 amps when running at full power but since I am only getting an orange spark I am assuming I am not getting full power to the plugs? I also assume that I should work that first before I pull the distributor and make sure the timing hasn't jumped as some have suggested. What would cause low power to the plugs? The battery stays charged and I haven't had problems starting it.

Coil polarity?

 

[jimjumper]

This is exactly! how the wiring is currently. Since I don't have headlights there are only 8 wires total. I have taken pictures and verified it independently so I'm pretty sure the wiring is correct. However, I just did the 3 tests shown on the diagram and did only get 3V across B and C. I'll try a new resistor block and see but I aint getting my hopes up.

 

[jimjumper]

If I jumper'ed across the resistor would I be able to tell if the voltage to the coil increases? I realize that would be hard on the points but it would only be a minute or 2.