Recent content by kantuckid

What's the cheapest, logical route to dye my Hyd fluid? I googled but some are sorta pricey. Something small as I don't need to ad fluid for now. Tightwad fix is my best choice always.

I have that one but never weighed it. I filled mine with crushed rock and store my logging chains on top the rock where it's settled in. I keep my drawbars and a spudbar in the holes mades into my box corners and at times a shovel/rake, etc.. I also have a ball hitch used for hay wagon pulling...

My 4820R came with a left fender dual cupholder. Buy that as a part?

I have a 1/2 mile of mostly very steep private road I've maintained for 45 years. I had a blade only for years and it works VG, my previous tractor I got a 72" Land Pride box scraper in the deal and never use the blade since then. The only rock which fills a pothole or stays put anywhere period...

In the interest of being current you need to read up on the transition from Branson to TYM branding. Bluntly stated, the FB Branson Compact tractor Group has current dealer sourced information towards this notion. It covers warranty, dealer changeovers and much more. There are great members...

It's not gonna be regional by brand. It is a transition from two brands to one. many dealers have commented toward this on the FB Branson Group page. Tym is it down the road, brand wise.

I find the FB Branson Group discussion towards the TYM/Branson business to be far more up to date and factual than what I gleaned from here. It has candid comments from dealers & business reps and honestly just less conjecture toward the subject. Not trying to criticize anyone, just saying...

I've found the terminal gizmo with the short brush to be junk, no matter who sold it. The brush breaks off and is too small for long term use as the brush gets buggered up fast. Buy a full sized SS, wood handled, hand brush from Lowes and after removing all connections brush the terminals...

If a tractor has reversable wheels it's designed to operate in either mode (bearings, etc.) other than a specific agricultural need to remain narrow in the row, wide is always better. If you use a FEL or certain other attachments, loaded tires is the far better weight placement than a weight...

I don't pick up brush nor am I a landscaper. What few times I move some brush I can easily push aside it with forks. I'm not clearing land and when I have, I hired a dozer for logical purposes. Grapples cost thousands more than a set of VG forks and don't take away any of your FEL lift...

Mill-it's a commonly seen early model Woodmizer LT15 from ~ 2000 year model & mills setup under a shed roof. The cabin I'll post when it's got a roof. We live in a much larger one I built in 1979-80 when I was much more of a man than whats left now. I'm on log layer #19 right now which is...

I've got a bit over a hundred hours on my Branson 4820R now, plus what it had when hauled in, so now around 180+ hours. I've had zero issues to date. I use the tractor daily in the past year as I've been either logging, sawmilling, handling lumber or since spring involved with a personal remote...

I'm buying a $15 2" ball coupler x 3" wide which has bolt holes in two directions so a cheap, easy adaption that can be reversed back to original. I've already got too many various hitch gizmos all ready.

I'll be towing with some angles involved, but not such that a ball doesn't work as my Gatormade utility trailers been everywhere this wagon will be going. The issue is the wagon has an undamaged OE tongue end which has a very large hole such that as I stated, no pins large enough to not jiggle...

I rebuilt an old David Bradley 4T hay wagon running gear. Wheel bearings, painted wheels and frame, added all new wood. It has the original tongue which is OK but has the large hole for hitching which is too large for use of most drawbar pins and too sloppy using a clevis. My wagon will be...