Recent content by Harry in Ky

Assuming it's Bosch VE pump of some sort, my experience has been that hours on the clock don't mean much. Those pumps do NOT like water or air in the fuel. If you've had any history of either (or maybe both) they can get expensive quickly.

More importantly, does the PTO shaft stop when you push the clutch pedal all the way down? That's what's critical here. Just because the shaft spins doesn't mean the clutch is working right.

"PTO works like it should". Just what does that mean? If you actually tested it or are you just guessing it works? As for the transmission portion, you can adjust to reduce free play to near nothing and test it again, If it still won't stop the shafts turning with pedal fully depressed...

If it were my project I would be contacting a pump shop with some numbers off the I.D. tag and see what they have to say. At this point it looks like a pump rebuild is in your not too distant future.

When you first rolled it back together how much free play was there? As clutches wear over time free play needs to be increased to compensate. When a new clutch is installed that distance will be too great and need to be shortened up. In most cases anyway. Depending on the design of the clutch...

You replaced "the two clutch plates". So you removed the clutch assembly, took it all apart, replaced the discs, then put it all back together? After assembling the tractor did you adjust the clutch pedal free play? How much free travel do you have?

So what exactly is "the same situation"? As you can see the outcome was never divulged, as is often the case here.

It will also spray a lot oil under pressure all over the place. If that's your idea a "homeowner" test, then go for it, but I wouldn't be suggesting it to some unsuspecting individual.

While you have a hydrostatic transmission you also have a dry clutch ahead of it. Your description of events could very well be caused by that clutch slipping under certain conditions. Is there any free play in the pedal? That would be the first thing to check.

You're missing the point. The purpose of the flow meter is to measure the output flow at rated pressure, not just free flowing fluid into a bucket. Most any pump can fill a bucket. Adding more oil is to see if that will keep the pump primed on a hill to possibly trouble shoot the pickup tube...

In theory, there should be little or no effort being applied to pull the gland in other than seal drag as the rod moves in and out. The pressure is all on the inside which should push it out if anything.

You seem to have a lot going on here, and a lot being thrown at you. Some of which I agree with, some not so much. For one thing, while the lift cylinder piston seals might be a problem with lifting capacity or function, but hard to believe that's affecting the "not" lowering. If you decide to...

An easier way to have a bit of a visual check? That depends on just how the tractor cases are designed. Sometimes there removable covers designed for access to certain clutch components that require periodic adjustment. I'm not at all familiar with you particular model so I won't speak to that...

In most cases bleeding won't be necessary. What exactly are we doing here? Are you looking for answers concerning a problem you're "not positive" you even have? I don't know about others, but when I have questions about hydraulics, lifting or not lifting as expected I start with a pressure...

Hard to say. What did you add and how/where did you add it? Something obviously changed if it raised the front end before the addition. More details or a lot of wild guesses come next.