Recent content by aesmith

That's a good idea, too late for me this time. But I might mark the fully closed line on the plastic if it doesn't actually close right up.

The inner can't pass right through the yoke and stick out the other side, if that's what you mean. The fixing pin is in the way, and is presumably what it's stopped by in my picture.

Just to illustrate that point here's the shaft after cutting 40mm off the outer and before cutting the inner. You can see only 15mm or so needs to come off. These are the actual offcuts. Without doubting your comments that I'll have miles more overlap than needed, I don’t see why I'd want to...

That's always advised, but the two new shafts that I shortened both started off with the inner already shorter than the outer. So my process is to cut the measured amount off the outer. Then test fit the inner and measure how much needs to come off. From memory it was something like 10 or...

Thanks. I read the 6" recommendation but don't think I'd be happy with anything remotely that short, give were taking about near to 36" between the UJs. I saw another recommendation that the shaft shouldn't extend by more than 30%. If we're taking about the tubes then with 40mm cut off I have...

Hi, Something that's been bugging me for a while, the shaft for the mower is a bit too long. It doesn't close right up, at the shortest position it is still extended by just over 30mm. But it only has enough clearance to attach or detach from the tractor when the mower's right on the ground...

Not totally sold on a cab. I'd have to be dressed for the weather anyway when snow clearing, and for the rest of the year I'm always hopping on and off as I'm using it.

Not quite, I leave the PTO engaged all the time, except if I accidentally push the clutch to far when manoeuvring. The "big bank" drill is .. push into bank with blower raised until wheels start to dig in .. drop revs, shift into forward gear, roll forward until blower's clear .. drop blower...

Hi, After a few seasons with our geared tractor I think I'd really like HST fully variable speed. To be able to inch into the bigger drifts, whizz along quicker when it's shallower. At the moment I'm stuck with a fixed 0.89mph. Also to be able back into the drift with blower raised, then shuttle...

It does.

It will, I found that for myself. No seat switch. There's a red lever that disables all the pilot controls, but it will still start even if that's enabled. I'll have a quick test but I bet it will start with a control lever pulled (will need to be careful). If they'd wanted to interlock with...

I haven't yet because the fault hasnt shown itself since i reverted to the old starter. I have test lead made up ready. I don't know if there are any safety switches though. It's an all-hydraulic excavator so no clutch or neutral.

Thanks. There's a really good auto electrical outfit in Aberdeen, but it would need a special journey, and another trip to pick it up. One option would be to get the old starter into them to see if they could find the intermittant fault because clearly im not able to find it. I'm going to send...

Thanks. On this type of starter the solenoid is integral in the main body with the actual motor piggy-backed on top and driving through reduction gears. The other way round from most pre-engaged starters where the solenoid is the bit piggy-backed on top. I've had the starter in bits a few...

I posted earlier about starter problems, but I thought I was all sorted fitting a European (WAI) starter rather than the Chinese most offer. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/d1105-starter-issues.463295/ However unbelievably that starter is now dying in the same way that the EBay one...