BX2350 hydraulic line leaking

[Zick]

This line just starting leaking right at the nut. Is this a case of needing to tighten more or replace the line?
I tried to loosen and re-tighten but it seemed like it made it worse.

 

[dodge man]

Is there an o ring or some other kind of seal in there.

 

[Zick]

Is there an o ring or some other kind of seal in there.

Not sure yet, I was trying to look up the parts diagram on messicks site but their site isn't working for me.
I haven't pulled the line off yet as I was hoping it might just need to be tightened more but I tightened it pretty good (I thought).

 

[diesel85]

Did some research on this, and that line goes to a 9/16 connector that has a rubber o-ring. However, it looks like you leak is on the flanged side.

I would first get two box wrenches and tighten the heck out of it.

K2561-36620

 

[Zick]

Did some research on this, and that line goes to a 9/16 connector that has a rubber o-ring. However, it looks like you leak is on the flanged side.

I would first get two box wrenches and tighten the heck out of it.

K2561-36620

View attachment 5743529

Thanks, now I'm wondering if it might be leaking at the o ring side? Quick look seemed like it was leaking more from the nut.
Going to pull the tire tomorrow and get a better look.

 

[diesel85]

Thanks, now I'm wondering if it might be leaking at the o ring side? Quick look seemed like it was leaking more from the nut.
Going to pull the tire tomorrow and get a better look.

On my BX2200, there is a 45 degree fitting that I recall got loose at least three times in the past 20 years from vibration. When I notice it wet, I just get two box wrenches and tighten it up and it is good for a very long time. Hasn't leaked in at least 5-6 years.

It is amazing how small amount of a turn it takes to seal it up. But 2000 PSI of pressure will do that.

Otherwise my machine has been leak free other than a few consumable hoses.

I do plan on replacing all the hoses one day before one of them fails and goes pop making a gigantic mess.

At least on the BX, the lines don't run higher pressures like some of the equipment I use at work. Upwards of 4000+ PSI. Things get interesting on high flow, high pressure systems.

Being safety minded as I do, never put your hands near that when the machine is running due to skin injection hazard. ~2000 psi can still do this. Use paper or cardboard if you absolutely need to see if it is leaking while the machine is running.

Good luck.

 

[Zick]

Well I pulled the tire and double checked and the leak is definitely coming from the nut and not the block fitting.
I tried tightening it down again but it's just pouring out now instead of dripping.

Was able to get the parts diagram and the line is listed as "A" but there isn't an A part for sale?! Going to try reaching out to Messicks to see if they sell this.

Also, I have no idea how I can get the other side nut off? I was able to get a flare nut wrench on there but there isn't enough room to turn it enough. Is there another tool that might work better here? Maybe a flare wrench crows foot?
Really hate to have to take it to the dealer for something simple like this.

 

[Carl_NH]

Now that I see this is going around the PTO and 3PT area, I suspect it the line may have been pushed/bent and its slightly off center now to the flare fitting. Or the flare fitting is scored and leaking.

To fix first try to loosen one or both ends then reposition the flare connection to be properly seated. If that doesnt work, I would remove the line, and clean/polish the flare ends, and put it back with a good flare Male-Female connection- you should be able to turn the JIC fittings by hand when installing (limited to no tension on the fitting or nut on the flare).

 

[Zick]

Now that I see this is going around the PTO and 3PT area, I suspect it the line may have been pushed/bent and its slightly off center now to the flare fitting. Or the flare fitting is scored and leaking.

To fix first try to loosen one or both ends then reposition the flare connection to be properly seated. If that doesnt work, I would remove the line, and clean/polish the flare ends, and put it back with a good flare Male-Female connection- you should be able to turn the JIC fittings by hand when installing (limited to no tension on the fitting or nut on the flare).

Going to have to wait till the crows foot comes in on Fri, cause I can't get the other end off with my wrench.
Probably going to have to order a new block fitting with the o-ring as that is coming undone when trying to loosen the nut and that fitting is sunk into a circular recess and I can't get a wrench on it to hold it. No idea why they designed it like that...

 

[BlueKnife]

Probably going to have to order a new block fitting with the o-ring as that is coming undone when trying to loosen the nut and that fitting is sunk into a circular recess and I can't get a wrench on it to hold it.

That's more than likely happening because of this,

but I tightened it pretty good (I thought).

But, that's water under the bridge. The "block fitting with the o-ring" you're talking about is either an SAE O ring boss (ORB) to JIC or metric O ring to JIC. ORB is a lot more common, but I'm not sure what Kubota used for those. If @diesel85 is correct, and the O ring side of that fitting is 9/16, then that would be a 3/8" or -6 ORB. You don't need to get it from Kubota. Any good hydraulic supplier should have it and you can probably buy both options for a lot less than the factory part would be from Kubota. Given the repeated tightening, it's possible that the hard line end underneath that nut might have gotten crushed enough to split, in which case no amount of tightening will fix it. If there is enough line there, they can sometimes be shortened and re-flared. That requires the right tools though. The dealer probably won't do something like that, so (assuming you don't have or want to buy the flare tool) you'd probably have better luck at a hydraulic shop.