Looking for advice: Choosing a trailer for tractor & saw logs

[WinterDeere]

I wonder how big the largest of those ash logs is? I have my eye on a red oak that is dropping branches into my elderly neighbor’s field, it looks to be about 36” in diameter at chest height.

I've pulled several single ash and oak logs over 40" in diameter. Too many to count, in fact. The heaviest logs I've dragged with that winch are 7500#, with the primary limitation being anything heavier just drags my truck and trailer backwards, while the log goes nowhere. Of course I use wheel chocks, but I've dragged the whole rig backwards right over wheel chocks.

Point being, neither the winch stand nor the winch itself are the limit in what I can drag. Also, the payload capacity of my trailer is only about 5000#, so I end up cutting a lot of the larger oak logs shorter than trailer length, just to stay under payload. My usual cut length is 15 feet, but that only allows up to 31 inches diameter in fresh oak at 63 lb/ft3, so the 36" and 40" sticks get lopped to 9 - 11 feet, once I've dragged them near enough the trailer for convenient processing.

The biggest problem with a single 5000# log, in a trailer that's only 2000# curb weight, is securing it so that it doesn't roll. I come down some pretty steep and winding narrow roads, with big drop-offs either side, and always worry a log rolling in the bed could swing the trailer right off the edge of the road. So I jam smaller stuff under either side and strap it down as best I can.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Personally, I would find a trailer with 'drive over fenders'. They are low profile and tougher than normal. While not as easy to load from the side as a deck over, the deck is also lower like a normal hauler so it's a trade off. Find one with stake pockets and you can have sides for when hauling logs. There are ones with tilt options and winch mounts.

 

[WinterDeere]

Personally, I would find a trailer with 'drive over fenders'. They are low profile and tougher than normal. While not as easy to load from the side as a deck over, the deck is also lower like a normal hauler so it's a trade off. Find one with stake pockets and you can have sides for when hauling logs. There are ones with tilt options and winch mounts.

View attachment 4844344

View attachment 4844345

Agreed. This is probably what I'd be shopping today, if I were to start over again. I would also ask manufacturer if they could build and install the winch stand and stake sides, rather than doing it myself and having to repaint, afterwards.

They won't be cheap, but they could save you a butt load of time and sweat in design, procurement, fabrication, painting. Also, if mfg. has done a few before, they might save you time on future discovery of issues and adjustments or corrections.

 

[Shrew_Gardens]

I've pulled several single ash and oak logs over 40" in diameter. Too many to count, in fact. The heaviest logs I've dragged with that winch are 7500#, with the primary limitation being anything heavier just drags my truck and trailer backwards, while the log goes nowhere. Of course I use wheel chocks, but I've dragged the whole rig backwards right over wheel chocks.

Point being, neither the winch stand nor the winch itself are the limit in what I can drag. Also, the payload capacity of my trailer is only about 5000#, so I end up cutting a lot of the larger oak logs shorter than trailer length, just to stay under payload. My usual cut length is 15 feet, but that only allows up to 31 inches diameter in fresh oak at 63 lb/ft3, so the 36" and 40" sticks get lopped to 9 - 11 feet, once I've dragged them near enough the trailer for convenient processing.

The biggest problem with a single 5000# log, in a trailer that's only 2000# curb weight, is securing it so that it doesn't roll. I come down some pretty steep and winding narrow roads, with big drop-offs either side, and always worry a log rolling in the bed could swing the trailer right off the edge of the road. So I jam smaller stuff under either side and strap it down as best I can.

Wow!
Do you use something like a car hood under the leading edge to slide them up the ramps and onto the deck?

 

[RayIN]

Get a trailer a little longer and with a little more capacity than what you think you need. The extra length is a lifesaver helping to balance out loads, the extra capacity is just that, I've never heard anyone say I wish my trailer had less load capacity, but I have heard a thousand times I am at or a little over my trailer's capacity and wish I could haul more. If a tilt deck is to your liking look at the Kaufman 22' tilt deck with 2-7k axles they can be had for less than $8k picked up at one of their factory's, I bought one to haul my skidsteer on but I did upgrade to the 8k axles and more importantly 17.5 super single tires, they are a lot of trailer for the money.

$8k, that's cheaper than used on TruckPaper.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

$8k, that's cheaper than used on TruckPaper.

$7,190.00 for the one with the 7k axles and $8,390.00 for the one with the 8k axles and 17.5 tires picked up at one of their 3 factory's. I said it in an earlier post, "it's a lot of trailer for the money".

 

[dodge man]

What’s your plan for loading them if your tractor won’t lift them? Some type of winch?

 

[WinterDeere]

Wow!
Do you use something like a car hood under the leading edge to slide them up the ramps and onto the deck?

Usually just an old scrap of plywood. Admittedly, I'd like to find a better solution, but none have presented themselves, which do not also interfere with driving the tractor up onto the trailer, or act as a giant parachute brake going down the road.

 

[RayIN]

What’s your plan for loading them if your tractor won’t lift them? Some type of winch?

Since it's a tilt trailer, I would assume you just use a tractor to pull them off, the trailer tilts as the load shifts to the rear of the trailer. I can be wrong though.

 

[Shrew_Gardens]

What’s your plan for loading them if your tractor won’t lift them? Some type of winch?

I had planned on using a parbuckle (rope sling) to bring them up ramps over the side of the trailer. I don’t know much about posting images but this link might work:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ldfTUZgLjAQ/maxresdefault.jpg

It is a still taken from a YouTube video.

 

[Shrew_Gardens]

Usually just an old scrap of plywood. Admittedly, I'd like to find a better solution, but none have presented themselves, which do not also interfere with driving the tractor up onto the trailer, or act as a giant parachute brake going down the road.

Seems like it’s working for you!

 

[Shrew_Gardens]

Agreed. This is probably what I'd be shopping today, if I were to start over again. I would also ask manufacturer if they could build and install the winch stand and stake sides, rather than doing it myself and having to repaint, afterwards.

They won't be cheap, but they could save you a butt load of time and sweat in design, procurement, fabrication, painting. Also, if mfg. has done a few before, they might save you time on future discovery of issues and adjustments or corrections.

Are the stake sides the same as the pockets inside the rub rail pictured on some of these trailers, or are they heavier duty?

I should say that I don’t intend to move logs all the time. I have some projects that I want to use my own harvested wood for but I’m not planning on bringing trailer loads to a mill on a regular basis. At least, not at this stage of whatever I’m working up to here. So the trailer doesn’t have to optimal for logs, better for it to be flexible enough to meet several applications.

And I should add that this thread isn’t about getting just the right thing, but hearing from people with experience so I don’t make a really big error due to lack of knowledge.

 

[WinterDeere]

Since it's a tilt trailer, I would assume you just use a tractor to pull them off, the trailer tilts as the load shifts to the rear of the trailer. I can be wrong though.

I always just dragged them straight off the back of my non-tilting trailer. This maneuver is what caused me to upgrade from the Deere 855 to the 3033R, as the angle from which I used to have to drag the logs caused the 855 to tip sideways onto two wheels on more than one occasion, as logs rolled down the ramp while dragging them off the trailer.

Obviously, dragging straight is the way to go, if you have space and layout for it. But no ramp or tilt are needed, gravity works just fine on logs.

 

[WinterDeere]

Are the stake sides the same as the pockets inside the rub rail pictured on some of these trailers, or are they heavier duty?

I'd guess all manufacturers do them differently, but the ones by Big Tex are 2" x 4" square tube or C-channel sections maybe 4" in length, welded vertically to the outside of the frame rails. Mine are basically inaccessible, due to the solid sides, which they clearly treat as an add-on after basic construction.

But most of these trailer manufacturers are hand-building everything, small volume, and would likely customize however you like.

 

[yanmars]

40 inches, that is a big ash log

 

[4570Man]

What’s your plan for loading them if your tractor won’t lift them? Some type of winch?

You can hook a chain around the end and lift it up then back the trailer under the end. Then move the tractor to the end and push it the rest of the way on. I suppose you could build ramps up the side of the trailer but pushing it on the end is a lot faster if there’s only a couple logs it won’t lift.

 

[4570Man]

I do have forks and they are on the tractor much more than the bucket but after their weight I’ve got a bit less than 1/2 ton of capacity, so unless I want to upgrade the tractor I need to load another way. Even with a 2500lb capacity I wouldn’t be able to load the big logs.

Have you worked with the mill before? Every one I’ve ever dealt with pays the same rate for 8ft6” logs over longer logs. They actually pay more for 2 8ft6” over one 16ft. They’re measuring off small end and the small end of the first log will be a little bigger when it’s shorter. The pulp wood they want longer but as little as that pays you might as well make firewood.

 

[Shrew_Gardens]

Have you worked with the mill before? Every one I’ve ever dealt with pays the same rate for 8ft6” logs over longer logs. They actually pay more for 2 8ft6” over one 16ft. They’re measuring off small end and the small end of the first log will be a little bigger when it’s shorter. The pulp wood they want longer but as little as that pays you might as well make firewood.

The logs are actually for custom milling for flooring in my 1839 home, then for some similar projects (kitchen cabinets, etc). Not trying to make money, I have a day job and I’m a terrible business man.

 

[John_Mc]

As someone already mentioned parbuckling is a good way to load logs, if you don't have a grapple or other method of loading.

Another method involves mounting a loading arch on the back of the trailer. The arch can be made to be easily removable, if desired.

Here is a thread that shows one design:
DanG-Deadheader Log Lift

and another that shows some photos of another person's build in action:
moving logs

 

[Shrew_Gardens]

As someone already mentioned parbuckling is a good way to load logs, if you don't have a grapple or other method of loading.

Another method involves mounting a loading arch on the back of the trailer. The arch can be made to be easily removable, if desired.

Here is a thread that shows one design:
DanG-Deadheader Log Lift

and another that shows some photos of another person's build in action:
moving logs

My plan has been to parbuckle the logs up and over the side of a trailer using my portable winch.

I have seen videos of that style log lifter, would have to have it fabricated as I do not have a welder, nor should I be trusted with one!

Does anyone know how tough the drive over fenders are, specifically would they be likely to hold up with a larger log rolling over them from the side when loading with a parbuckle? There is a Load Trail 12k trailer with them nearby that looks nice.