Best "cheap" square baler?

/ Best "cheap" square baler? #21  
Are you running with a YM1802 or an YM1820?

My machine is rated at 26Hp PTO and the balers I posted about work with this range, just like his Ford models.

I once tried the JD19T. The only downside with that series is the hard kick each cycle that shakes the back-end of the tractor. It's a common theme with the series. With filled rear tires, the kick/jolt isn't as badly felt in the seat.
JD didn't manufacture a model 19T maybe you meant 14T.

Many yrs ago just for kicks I successfully pulled my families baler which was a JD214WS with my JD BO that has trans driven/no live pto that has only 14 horsepower.

One good thing concerning JD sq balers built when 336/346 began being manufactured is the models have not changed much up through todays balers & a lot of parts will interchange. JD small sq balers of that era have only 2 roller chains that might require timing.

As other stated JD small sq balers are known for making square bales if operated as designed.
 
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/ Best "cheap" square baler? #22  
Growing up I bailed a lot of hay successfully with John Deere 14T bailers.
Later years switched to New Holland bailer, which seemed to be a little more reliable at tying bales but the bales didn’t look as good as John Deere bales.
Surprisingly I did bale some with a Massey Ferguson bailer and was pretty impressed with everything about it, really wasn’t expecting that.
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #23  
IMO, it’s more the way the baler is tuned, than the brand. If you have a good local guy who can tweak your baler to run just right, or you can do it yourself, that’s the best situation.
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #24  
I pulled a New Holland 310 sq baler with a wagon behind it with a 30hp Kubota. I baled 30 acres of hay with that set up for years. Never had a problem. I have flat ground. I say to go with the NH 316. I tried a couple older balers but they were just worn out
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #25  
I had a Ford 530 , very well used, tired example. 'ran when parked'! I messed around with it for weeks before I could get it to reliably tie. I bought some new, some used parts and made a couple of unavailable parts. I did one season with it, it would drop a knot on around 3-4% of bales which I was ok with. But doing squares on your own sucks when you're in your 60s. Picking up and loading a wagon gets old quick.
I ran that behind a MF 2850M, it really rocked me about with the push/pull motion.
Also, consider where you're getting it from. They'll fit on a 8ft wide trailer but are hard to load due to the offset. Same applies with flat towing, the offset makes you a wide rig running down the road, wide and slooow!
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #26  
I pulled a New Holland 310 sq baler with a wagon behind it with a 30hp Kubota. I baled 30 acres of hay with that set up for years. Never had a problem. I have flat ground. I say to go with the NH 316. I tried a couple older balers but they were just worn out
It’s funny because I had one of them, too. Or maybe it was a 315….can’t remember.
Anyways, I had a JD 336 and a NH 315 or 316.

Both were pretty good, but I paid a lot less for the 336.
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #27  
I've been looking a bit for a "cheap" square baler. (We've been thinking about making an acre or 2 for small use).

I don't have a square baler and haven't actually owned one to date. Used, yes, owned no.

looked at an old ford "504", ford 530 and a New Holland 316 so far. The 316 would probably work best on the Ford 5000, but I want something a bit smaller.

I have a variety of smaller tractors available and would prefer to use one with my Zetor 5211.

I'm looking for a cheap machine that's (somewhat) easy to find parts for AND makes a good bale that doesn't look like a dishrag.

When I say somewhat easy to find part for, I mean on Ebay/Facebook Market place as well as some new parts here or there.

How do other balers like a Ferguson stack up?
Have one with 4 cylinder gas, new blades, tires might hold air or can snag off swather. Think it is an IH located near San Jose, CA. Eekmail best option if you are interested. Lol@dishrag blades will clean edges and ends, compression stroke adjustment will make sheaves tighter or looser and you are smart to consider smaller. It used to make MF in icon pic hop every time one dropped off. It makes JD 301a industrial loader/scraper hop to side on drop and eventually will crack/break diff housing.
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #28  
I had a Ford 530 , very well used, tired example. 'ran when parked'! I messed around with it for weeks before I could get it to reliably tie. I bought some new, some used parts and made a couple of unavailable parts. I did one season with it, it would drop a knot on around 3-4% of bales which I was ok with.

Did about the same thing with a JD 336. Got it running and in the barn it seemed like it was good. In the field, it would miss a knot now-and-then -- some days a lot. Even 3-4% is every 25 to 30 bales and really slows you down. It's also a lot more hassle and hectic when you're constantly on the watch for a missed knot so you can tie it by hand. If you have someone on a wagon behind you to watch for it, that helps a LOT!

But doing squares on your own sucks when you're in your 60s. Picking up and loading a wagon gets old quick.

True! I remember really fun days baling with a couple teenagers on a wagon behind the baler. Some of my worst days were spent doing the same thing with no help.

Also, consider where you're getting it from. They'll fit on a 8ft wide trailer but are hard to load due to the offset. Same applies with flat towing, the offset makes you a wide rig running down the road, wide and slooow!

Takes a deckover trailer to haul one and, as you say, they're hard to load. Also need to be sure all your sheet metal shields are tied down or otherwise secured. We lost a side shield on a baler pulling it home on a trailer. Never was able to find it. Didn't affect the operation but it sucked to lose it and they're expensive to replace.

As far as towing, I think they tow pretty decent when folded up. Much better than a haybine, for example. The narrow pickup on the old small balers lets you keep it in one lane if you crowd the center. But unless you're going to check the wheel bearings (and possibly replace them before towing), it's wise not to plan to pull very far very fast.

Once you experience a baler that does a good job, that will punch out bales reliably and might only miss a knot every few hundred bales when it switches twine balls, you'll understand why it's best to find one that's truly ready to work. It's the difference between enjoying the process and getting your hay in the barn vs. standing in the field cutting twine and cussing all day. You should be able to bale without touching your baler other than to switch wagons.
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #29  
It’s funny because I had one of them, too. Or maybe it was a 315….can’t remember.
Anyways, I had a JD 336 and a NH 315 or 316.

Both were pretty good, but I paid a lot less for the 336.
Met and skied with Sylvester in Telluride, CO. He was pretty good at dancing down frozen mountains
 
/ Best "cheap" square baler? #30  
Did about the same thing with a JD 336. Got it running and in the barn it seemed like it was good. In the field, it would miss a knot now-and-then -- some days a lot. Even 3-4% is every 25 to 30 bales and really slows you down. It's also a lot more hassle and hectic when you're constantly on the watch for a missed knot so you can tie it by hand. If you have someone on a wagon behind you to watch for it, that helps a LOT!



True! I remember really fun days baling with a couple teenagers on a wagon behind the baler. Some of my worst days were spent doing the same thing with no help.



Takes a deckover trailer to haul one and, as you say, they're hard to load. Also need to be sure all your sheet metal shields are tied down or otherwise secured. We lost a side shield on a baler pulling it home on a trailer. Never was able to find it. Didn't affect the operation but it sucked to lose it and they're expensive to replace.

As far as towing, I think they tow pretty decent when folded up. Much better than a haybine, for example. The narrow pickup on the old small balers lets you keep it in one lane if you crowd the center. But unless you're going to check the wheel bearings (and possibly replace them before towing), it's wise not to plan to pull very far very fast.

Once you experience a baler that does a good job, that will punch out bales reliably and might only miss a knot every few hundred bales when it switches twine balls, you'll understand why it's best to find one that's truly ready to work. It's the difference between enjoying the process and getting your hay in the barn vs. standing in the field cutting twine and cussing all day. You should be able to bale without touching your baler other than to switch wagons.
One year on the last field something felt wrong. Turned around in time to watch big wheel on baler fall over. Half the hub stayed on rim, other half on ground. Helper came wandering from cabin and asked why I'd stopped. He had no idea how close he was to receiving a pipe smacking his head. After getting the hub pieces off, welded and back from town we had a 'chat.' I hadn't told him to crank the lugs down HARD! Aieeeeeee was my reply. Not having used a baler with rope because wire is str8 forward, know how it goes and have been lucky with it. At 71 loading bales, even with the mech platform that picks up, transports 20' back and 8' up then does 90 on bale... can, usually will, make a mess.
 

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