Best "cheap" square baler?

[slingworks]

I've been looking a bit for a "cheap" square baler. (We've been thinking about making an acre or 2 for small use).

I don't have a square baler and haven't actually owned one to date. Used, yes, owned no.

looked at an old ford "504", ford 530 and a New Holland 316 so far. The 316 would probably work best on the Ford 5000, but I want something a bit smaller.

I have a variety of smaller tractors available and would prefer to use one with my Zetor 5211.

I'm looking for a cheap machine that's (somewhat) easy to find parts for AND makes a good bale that doesn't look like a dishrag.

When I say somewhat easy to find part for, I mean on Ebay/Facebook Market place as well as some new parts here or there.

How do other balers like a Ferguson stack up?

 

[bmaverick]

I've been looking a bit for a "cheap" square baler. (We've been thinking about making an acre or 2 for small use).

I don't have a square baler and haven't actually owned one to date. Used, yes, owned no.

looked at an old ford "504", ford 530 and a New Holland 316 so far. The 316 would probably work best on the Ford 5000, but I want something a bit smaller.

I have a variety of smaller tractors available and would prefer to use one with my Zetor 5211.

I'm looking for a cheap machine that's (somewhat) easy to find parts for AND makes a good bale that doesn't look like a dishrag.

When I say somewhat easy to find part for, I mean on Ebay/Facebook Market place as well as some new parts here or there.

How do other balers like a Ferguson stack up?

Maybe the Super Hayliner 68 Baler. Its old like the reliable Fords. Easy to maintain and were the backbone of the nation for making small squares.

Here's the manuals.

 

[bmaverick]

Also these are a good unit too.

 

[bmaverick]

Even more

 

[bmaverick]

There is an Massey-Ferrguson 10 that is good. I have the manual, but too large to upload here.

 

[zzvyb6]

I'm still using a JD 14T as old as I am. Parts still available from my dealers. A friend is now using a JD24T (VERY similar, same critical parts) that we got from an auction for $250. Last season she did more than 2000 bales. Running with a JD2555 (doesn't even know the baler is onboard !) The JD balers are not known to make banana bales (like the NH models which use feeder forks instead of an auger chamber loader.

I've run my 14T behind an 18hp Yanmar (which did not have a recommended 'live' or 2 stage pto clutch). You release the pedal and every thing starts up: tractor and baler. So many claim you need 50+ hp to bale hay, keep in mind that the 14T & 24T had an optional 16 hp gas engine mounted on the tongue just in case you had a belt drive PTO tractor or farmed with horses.

The only thing to add here is that a hydrostatic drive tractor makes baling a lot easier if your windrows are clumpy.
BTW: I also ran a NH-479 9' mower conditioner with the same tractor. And if you're baling in Switzerland while pulling 2 wagons behind the tractor with a kicker or belt shooter on the baler, more power is recommended.

 

[bmaverick]

I'm still using a JD 14T as old as I am. Parts still available from my dealers. A friend is now using a JD24T (VERY similar, same critical parts) that we got from an auction for $250. Last season she did more than 2000 bales. Running with a JD2555 (doesn't even know the baler is onboard !) The JD balers are not known to make banana bales (like the NH models which use feeder forks instead of an auger chamber loader.

I've run my 14T behind an 18hp Yanmar (which did not have a recommended 'live' or 2 stage pto clutch). You release the pedal and every thing starts up: tractor and baler. So many claim you need 50+ hp to bale hay, keep in mind that the 14T & 24T had an optional 16 hp gas engine mounted on the tongue just in case you had a belt drive PTO tractor or farmed with horses.

The only thing to add here is that a hydrostatic drive tractor makes baling a lot easier if your windrows are clumpy.
BTW: I also ran a NH-479 9' mower conditioner with the same tractor. And if you're baling in Switzerland while pulling 2 wagons behind the tractor with a kicker or belt shooter on the baler, more power is recommended.

Are you running with a YM1802 or an YM1820?

My machine is rated at 26Hp PTO and the balers I posted about work with this range, just like his Ford models.

I once tried the JD19T. The only downside with that series is the hard kick each cycle that shakes the back-end of the tractor. It's a common theme with the series. With filled rear tires, the kick/jolt isn't as badly felt in the seat.

 

[bmaverick]

Not bad at all for a JD14T. Less that $1,000 in faily good looking images.

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A trick I learned from another hay farmer for these small balers, is to paint with a very high gloss slippery formula where the bales are bunched together and then heading out. This helps prevent binding and the machine working very hard requiring more power from the tractor. Sure keep the rest all greased up too.

 

[slingworks]

bmaverick when I was a boy back in the 80's my dad made hay with a neighbor and used what I believe was a New Holland 68. The neighbor pulled it with his H and some kind of a smaller English made Long. I'd be pretty happy with one if I come across something close.

I'm open to any good baler though, trouble is I don't know much about other makes/models.

 

[GrandpaSmurf825]

Are you running with a YM1802 or an YM1820?

My machine is rated at 26Hp PTO and the balers I posted about work with this range, just like his Ford models.

I once tried the JD19T. The only downside with that series is the hard kick each cycle that shakes the back-end of the tractor. It's a common theme with the series. With filled rear tires, the kick/jolt isn't as badly felt in the seat.

I spent a lot of hours behind a JD 14T and the only time I ever remember it being anything but smooth was when a "wad or clump" went in and instead of a nice even slice added to the bale it gained several inches in one stroke. Otherwise it was ran pretty smoothly. That's more on the rake operator doing a good job than anything else. although there are times you can't always control how a windrow comes together. Dad had and used that 14T for about 35 years and I think he bought it for to the best of my recollection $300 in 1968.
I realize a D17 Allis Chalmers is a lot more tractor than you are using. I just don't remember much it not being pretty smooth.
The one that would probably be a problem but probably few if any here have seen one of them is the sidewinder John Deere 116W baler. The bale chamber ran cross ways on it. They were pretty rare.