Top n tilt and quantity of remotes

[Theof]

Would like to add fit rite top n tilt to L6060. Currently have two sets of remotes. It appears TnT requires 2 sets of remotes, so will I have to add 2 additional sets of remotes to use my snowblower which requires 2 sets also. Don’t think my tractor can be set up that way.

 

[RjCorazza]

The L60 series is limited to (3) sets of OEM remotes, but there are several aftermarket options to get the (4) remotes you want.
Summit hydraulics is a popular supplier.
I have (2) sets of OEM remotes on my L4060, and am in "Analysis Paralysis" over biting the bullet on adding (1) additional OEM remote, or using one of the various splitters available.

 

[D&D]

The L60 series is limited to (3) sets of OEM remotes, but there are several aftermarket options to get the (4) remotes you want.
Summit hydraulics is a popular supplier.
I have (2) sets of OEM remotes on my L4060, and am in "Analysis Paralysis" over biting the bullet on adding (1) additional OEM remote, or using one of the various splitters available.

For the appplication, cheapest route available. How often will you really need to adjust all 4 instantaneously? Also, IME, it is very difficult to move 2,3,4 separate levers at the same time and rate.

 

[bdhsfz6]

In order to add a 4th remote on my L6060, I added a 4th OEM breakaway coupler housing to the stack.

I then ran hyd. hoses forward and connected them to the 3rd function valve:

A diverter would have been cheaper, but I already had the 3rd function valve installed. I only have a couple of implements that require 4 remotes. I don't use them often, so I didn't bother routing the hoses under the tractor for a more permanent install. I might do later if necessary.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Would like to add fit rite top n tilt to L6060. Currently have two sets of remotes. It appears TnT requires 2 sets of remotes, so will I have to add 2 additional sets of remotes to use my snowblower which requires 2 sets also. Don’t think my tractor can be set up that way.

The easiest way to get the additional sets of rear remotes is to add a diverters. With the diverters you can have (in your case) 3 sets of controls all with one control lever.


Simply add a control grip (probably to your #2 control lever) to one of your control levers and you then have the capability of controlling 3 separate functions and never move your hand from the control lever.

I now have poppet-type diverters, so no more drifting with the internal leakage that Kubota is known to have with their rear remotes. It sounds like you need a triple diverter to gain your 2 additional sets of couplers. I only have a picture of the 4 diverter set. So you would need a triple diverter set with the control grip as seen in the separate pictured control grip for your application.

Contact me if you are interested.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

For the appplication, cheapest route available. How often will you really need to adjust all 4 instantaneously? Also, IME, it is very difficult to move 2,3,4 separate levers at the same time and rate.

If you can you are either a rotor wing pilot, or a grader operator.

 

[Fallon]

I have a L4060, so same cab & hydraulics. 3 rear remotes & a diverter on the loader. TnT cylinders from Mountain View Ranch.

Dealer went through several sets of valves to find a set that didn't have massive leak down issues. I have an okish on for my toplink. I love float on that & deal with a bit of leak down. On the sidelink they couldn't get one that didn't leak down fast. Dealer ended up putting a dual piloted check valve in to stop the leak down. It works, but prevents float.

I have to rob my toplink remotes to run both the rotate & deflector on my snowblower. Not a big deal as you don't need tilt after hooking up a blower & unplugging it prevents leak down. 4 remotes would be nice, but not worth any effort or expense to avoid a minute unplugging the toplink.

 

[RjCorazza]

I have a L4060, so same cab & hydraulics. 3 rear remotes & a diverter on the loader. TnT cylinders from Mountain View Ranch.

Dealer went through several sets of valves to find a set that didn't have massive leak down issues. I have an okish on for my toplink. I love float on that & deal with a bit of leak down. On the sidelink they couldn't get one that didn't leak down fast. Dealer ended up putting a dual piloted check valve in to stop the leak down. It works, but prevents float.

I have to rob my toplink remotes to run both the rotate & deflector on my snowblower. Not a big deal as you don't need tilt after hooking up a blower & unplugging it prevents leak down. 4 remotes would be nice, but not worth any effort or expense to avoid a minute unplugging the toplink.

uhmmmmm...
I never thought of adjusting my hydraulic toplink, then unplugging the lines. The toplink will stay in position?
That would be a lot simpler than swapping the hydraulic toplink with a manual one when I use both remotes for my blower.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

uhmmmmm...
I never thought of adjusting my hydraulic toplink, then unplugging the lines. The toplink will stay in position?
That would be a lot simpler than swapping the hydraulic toplink with a manual one when I use both remotes for my blower.

With both lines disconnected, the cylinder should only move if the cylinder is leaking past the piston seals.

 

[Fallon]

With both lines disconnected, the cylinder should only move if the cylinder is leaking past the piston seals.

Yup. No changes in toplink length from November to March when I leave the blower on & toplink unplugged. Tilting the blower will just result in it wearing shoes or cutting edges weird & it cutting poorly.