Chain recommendation

/ Chain recommendation #3  
I won’t buy grade 43 chains but isn’t every chain hook held on with pins?
Almost every transport chain that I have seen has the hooks held on by pins.

I would go with Grade 70 chain only, unless using for decoration.
3/8" grade 43 is good for 5300 lbs and weights 28 lbs
3/8" grade 70 is good for 6600 lbs and weights 28 lbs
5/16" grade 70 is good for 4700 lbs and weights 19 lbs.

If you do not need the higher weight rating go with 5/16" grade 70, otherwise I would go with 3/8" grade 70.
 
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/ Chain recommendation #4  
Almost every transport chain that I have seen has the hooks held on by pins.

I would go with Grade 70 chain only, unless using for decoration.
3/8" grade 43 is good for 5300 lbs and weights 28 lbs
3/8" grade 70 is good for 6600 lbs and weights 28 lbs
5/16" grade 70 is good for 4700 lbs and weights 19 lbs.

If you do not need the higher weight rating go with 5/16" grade 70, otherwise I would go with 3/8" grade 70.

That’s exactly what I would do. I hate dragging around 3/8 chains when 5/16 is sufficient. I keep 2 grade 80 1/4” chains in my truck toolbox for chaining stuff on my truck bed.
 
/ Chain recommendation
  • Thread Starter
#5  
/ Chain recommendation #6  
/ Chain recommendation #7  
I just did a quick search of Mibro chain.

Grade 30? Decorative, what possible good can this type of stuff do?

Have we lost our minds?

Global sourcing to the very last penny..
 
/ Chain recommendation #9  
The lower grades are fine for stringing across a driveway, or hooking a gate, but not really for securing to a trailer, or pulling ... Lifting starts at grade 100 IIRC . .
Grade 80 and up is lifting rated. I have several 9/32 grade 80 chains that I use for everyday chain stuff, not just lifting. It's got a 3500 lb working load rating. Really nice having such lightweight but strong chain.
 
/ Chain recommendation #10  
The lower grades are fine for stringing across a driveway, or hooking a gate, but not really for securing to a trailer, or pulling ... Lifting starts at grade 100 IIRC . .
For pulling, after having seen what damage a broken chain can do (fatality in one incident), I suggest either wire rope or nylon rope. If chains must be used, I'd recommend running a rope through the chain links, loosely enough that it isn't tensioned, in case the chain breaks. A broken link from a chain can travel a great distance, break through a truck windshield and cause serious damage... How many times have we all seen chains used by jerking instead of steady force? Or how many times have we done that?
 
/ Chain recommendation #11  
For pulling, after having seen what damage a broken chain can do (fatality in one incident), I suggest either wire rope or nylon rope. If chains must be used, I'd recommend running a rope through the chain links, loosely enough that it isn't tensioned, in case the chain breaks. A broken link from a chain can travel a great distance, break through a truck windshield and cause serious damage... How many times have we all seen chains used by jerking instead of steady force? Or how many times have we done that?
They all have their pros and cons. All will break if overloaded for it's condition at the time. None will break if not overloaded for it's condition at the time. Some pros and cons of each below. These are all assuming the correct load rating for the application at hand. Obviously, once the load rating is exceeded, all bets are off, no matter which one you're using.

Chain
Heaviest for a given weight rating
Can cause damage if someone overloads and breaks it
Infinitely adjustable for length (probably it's biggest advantages)
Doesn't stretch (unless severely overloaded), which is an advantage in some scenarios
Least subject to abrasive damage
Easier to store than wire rope.
Not subject to solar damage

Wire Rope
Heavier than rope but lighter than chain
Can also cause damage if someone overloads and breaks it
Not adjustable for length
Stretches very little
Less subject to abrasive damage than rope
Not subject to solar damage

Rope
Lightest weight
Can cause damage if someone overloads and breaks it, but generally less than chain or wire rope
Infinitely adjustable for length, but this requires a good working knowledge of knots, which many folks don't have
Most easily damaged or cut
Easier to store than wire rope
Static rope stretches very little. Often used for winch lines.
Dynamic rope stretches. Often used for "kinetic" tow ropes.
Mixing up static and dynamic ropes can cause significant damage
Subject to solar damage
 
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/ Chain recommendation #12  
All about what you're chaining down...for most mid-size, a 4-point attachment with 5/16" is more than enough - and a lot easier to carry around than 3/8". Amazon has some good low-cost options on the G70s also.
 
/ Chain recommendation #14  
All about what you're chaining down...for most mid-size, a 4-point attachment with 5/16" is more than enough - and a lot easier to carry around than 3/8". Amazon has some good low-cost options on the G70s also.
I don't think we know whether he is using this for tie downs or for towing, or both. Also don't know the weight of the equipment/items in question.........
 
/ Chain recommendation #15  
For pulling, after having seen what damage a broken chain can do (fatality in one incident), I suggest either wire rope or nylon rope. If chains must be used, I'd recommend running a rope through the chain links, loosely enough that it isn't tensioned, in case the chain breaks. A broken link from a chain can travel a great distance, break through a truck windshield and cause serious damage... How many times have we all seen chains used by jerking instead of steady force? Or how many times have we done that?

A nylon sling isn’t all that dangerous by itself but when it’s got a clevis on the end it’s probably the most dangerous option.
 
/ Chain recommendation #16  
As for safety while pulling with any type of chain or rope, draping towels, sheets or similar on it while taut but not heavily loaded can help mitigate the whip effect should it break or be suddenly released while pulling. Or so I've read...
 
/ Chain recommendation #17  
5/16 is easier to handle while 3/8 is a bit clunky. 3/8 is almost always up to the job. 5/16 is way easier to stretch
 
/ Chain recommendation #18  
I have pulled a flatbed for decades. When I use chains instead of straps, 99% of the time I use grade 70 5/16". They are much easier to handle than 3/8. I would rather throw four 5/16" than three 3/8"

I have over 300' of various size chains; mostly 5/16" Only 2 short chains do not have pinned hooks
 
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/ Chain recommendation #19  
I won’t buy grade 43 chains but isn’t every chain hook held on with pins?
I would get the heavier chain. nothing more scary than a broken chain flying around.
 
/ Chain recommendation #20  
A nylon sling isn’t all that dangerous by itself but when it’s got a clevis on the end it’s probably the most dangerous option.
Generally though if something goes flying it's because it broke; so the clevis will still be attached to whatever it was hooked to. Yet this is why I prefer winching to getting tugged by another vehicle. On a couple of occasions I've called a wrecker rather than letting somebody hook onto me with a pickup.
 

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