Are replacement tractor parts made out of solid gold?

[CliffordK]

Doing a little work on the old International 606 Diesel.

Trying to get the brakes working. I picked up a brake kit with new bearings, springs, and friction disks. But, one brake won't hold together without replacing the brake actuator stud. A small stepped (shoulder) bolt.

I called the dealer today, and they wanted $96 each. One looks like it was replaced at some point. I would need 3 of them for a total of about $300.

They aren't big. Probably hardened steel. However, they likely are precision machined. So, it is unlikely an off the shelf solution would work. I was surprised I was able to get the old bolt out cleanly (filing the flats to 10mm).

 

[JTKub]

That's a tough one for sure. I guess the good thing is they still exist!

 

[CliffordK]

My guess is that someone has the same 50+ or 60+ year old screw machine that IH was using to make the parts when the tractors were new. And then just runs small batches of 100 to 1000 bolts as needed. And they've never bothered to write modern CNC programs for many of the old parts.

I still won't pay $100 per screw.

Eventually I will be able to cut similar screws on a lathe.

I've found a lot of vintage baler parts seem to be coming from China. So somehow they are able to reverse engineer the baler parts, and make them and still make a profit.

 

[zzvyb6]

I would hunt around for a while to find something else to fill the Bill (That's me). Something to substitute, make, or adapt from other vehicles, machinery, and or raw stock. It's not dealing with high speed forces or moments, so weld on a piece of rod onto a hardware store bolt cut to length. Heck even a thick-wall tube would serve the pinion's purpose, pressed onto a bolt shaft.

 

[ultrarunner]

Got to know a guy that made a very good living owning a salvage yard… parting out value many times scrap price.

That said some wear parts are very rare because any found are well used and in the same condition.

Any luck with web searches?

 

[camshawn]

Do you know or any of your friends know someone with a lathe? Check with your antique car groups in your area or ask around for a retired machinist. Someone could make you a couple.

 

[oldnslo]

Do you have any tractor salvage yards in your area? Possible they might have some in better shape especially if used across multiple models like 706, 806, etc.

 

[mrmikey]

That is out and out robbery.
Maybe a 5/8" bolt or whatever diameter it is, with a piece of 1/2" pipe welded to the end. You could probably even get a machine shop to turn out a few for $100.

 

[ultrarunner]

That is out and out robbery.
Maybe a 5/8" bolt or whatever diameter it is, with a piece of 1/2" pipe welded to the end. You could probably even get a machine show to turn out a few for $100.

When I worked at a Tool and Die a customer came in asking to replicate a part for his forklift.

The owner quoted something like $400 for 1 piece and $600 for 50 pieces…

The customer ordered 50 pieces at $12 each.

He sold the extras at $20 each to other Clark Forklift owners.

The per part price always drops with production because the setup costs/tooling is spread over many instead of just one…

 

[CliffordK]

I would imagine that the actuator studs fit in at least a dozen different International mechanical brake tractors models, and perhaps also fit in a dozen hydraulic brake models. Perhaps even more. So it isn't a one off. They probably don't fly off the shelf, but likely there is enough demand (if the price was good) to keep a few in stock.

The brake friction disks, actuator springs, bearings, and boots seem to be readily available aftermarket. Possibly the entire actuator assembly.

I have a feeling that the drums aren't entirely sealed. Mine were missing the cover plates. But a mixture of moisture getting in, and not getting out quickly, as well as no escape for brake dust, and it all makes a very caustic environment for the parts.

The shoulders are important. The first one is to fit tight in the actuator disc. If it was simply threads, it would eventually wallow out. The second shoulder is to fit the actuator arms,and something to bolt tight down onto.

As far as the part, I should have asked for the part number, but I'll find it. Or I will make my own studs.

The idea of using either a bronze or steel bushing for the second step makes sense, and might lead to an off the shelf solution. Thanks @mrmikey

I haven't found only the studs. I did find some used brake parts on E-Bay that I ordered. They may come as quickly as the dealer would have gotten the very expensive bolts in.

But, I can also imagine the slippery slope of tractor restoration. $20 here, $100 there... and do that a few hundred times and one could just buy a newer tractor.

For now, I think I'll simply weld a washer onto the old stud to form a new head, and put it back into the tractor. Then when I have some time, take it apart and fix it good enough for the next 60 years.

 

[CliffordK]

I did encounter that IH dealership a few years ago. I needed some bearings for some feed rollers on an old IH baler. The bearings they sold me appeared to just be off the shelf bearings that I should be able to spec out and purchase anywhere. Yet they were about 5x to 10x the cost of buying them from a bearing supplier.

I imagine these dealers make a fortune from people that need something fixed quickly, whereas, good cross referencing, and parts could be available elsewhere much cheaper.

 

[ZiggyD]

Did you check the recent price of gold? Tractor parts are a bargain

 

[Bentrim]

Why not try other manfactuirers such as Massy Ferguson, Agco (Oliver, Minneapolis Moline) and others Have used disc brakes as that and they all are probably made by the same supplier Just checked https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en for the 165 tractor and while it may not be a big savings they are listed for $86 but thay may or may not be the correct part.

 

[Mister3]

That's cheap! My buddy found a NOS 1 way bearing for his oliver and the guy wanted $2100 for it. Was maybe a inch or so in diameter

 

[laabk2]

Doing a little work on the old International 606 Diesel.

Trying to get the brakes working. I picked up a brake kit with new bearings, springs, and friction disks. But, one brake won't hold together without replacing the brake actuator stud. A small stepped (shoulder) bolt.

I called the dealer today, and they wanted $96 each. One looks like it was replaced at some point. I would need 3 of them for a total of about $300.

They aren't big. Probably hardened steel. However, they likely are precision machined. So, it is unlikely an off the shelf solution would work. I was surprised I was able to get the old bolt out cleanly (filing the flats to 10mm).

I have a Gasoline 606 and some parts are very hard to find. This place is local to me but the guy that runs it had loads of old IH parts tractors and is a true wealth of knowledge. Might give him a call and he could possibly either find the part or give you some tech help.

Smith Tire and Repair and Bits and Pieces Tractor Parts your source for Tractor Restoration, new, used and refurbished International Harvester tractor parts. Also specializing in tractor tire sales and repair in addition to farm equipment maintenance

Tractor Restoration and painting, New, used and refurbished international Harvester tractor and farm equipment parts, tractor sales, tractor tire sales, and tractor and farm equipment maintenace with Smith Tire and Repair in Mayfield Kentucky.

www.smithtireandrepair.com

 

[fishdoggy]

That looks like a lathe job for sure, I used to work as a tool and die maker and miss the shop, but it is all CNC equipment now, but my brother in law is the go too now with a pretty good shop.

 

[Gopher Baroque]

I have a couple of old tractor that need major repair. I am working on a Dexta currently. One of the big frustrations is that, with everything having to be done via internet, suppliers list by application and not dimensions. Many Dexta parts are similar, and even directly interchange, with Ford and Massey-Ferguson. The picture looks oh-so-close, but without dimensions, I can't be sure. I sure miss the old days of junk yards and good local parts places - plunk my part against new part and measure them!

The other thing I don't get is what gets cataloged. For example, the Sparex listings for Dexta shows the PTO bearing and seal, but not the cut-to-remove collars that retain the bearing and make the inner surface for the seal. How are you supposed to fix things with only some of the needed parts?! (In this case, I'm declaring the bearing fit for further service and using a Speedi-sleeve for the new seal.)

 

[CliffordK]

That has been my complaint about auto parts for decades. Often I just want something that is close enough that I can make it work.

I think there are some cross reference manuals, but I don't know if they go to different manufactures.

I was working on my drum mower this spring. Blew out a V-belt. I got awfully frustrated. I did find some belts at a local belt and bearing supplier (an inch or so too short, I think). But, all the local tractor places were most unhelpful. If one didn't have a part number for one of the tractor brands they sold, they couldn't even look up stock...

THIS WAS JUST A V-BELT.... albeit a little larger than one typically finds.

 

[CliffordK]

That looks like a lathe job for sure, I used to work as a tool and die maker and miss the shop, but it is all CNC equipment now, but my brother in law is the go too now with a pretty good shop.

For now I'm planning on welding a washer on to rebuild the head. But, I am planning on pulling the brakes apart, adding inner seals, and fixing the actuator bars and studs.

I think I should be able to cut the piece out of a Grade 8 flange bolt. But, I don't know how easy it will be to cut it down to size. I've worked on grade 8 bolts in the past and they seem to machine well.

 

[orezok]

NAH.. The manufacturer makes them out a pot metal and only plates them with gold