Mower idler pulley

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Had an idler pulley start smoking, luckily noticed before it torched the belt along with it

from what I can tell, the bearings don't look serviceable - no snap ring or anything top or bottom - am I missing something? Guessing you'd have to undo the eight big rivets ...

I just ordered replacements for this one and the other two idlers for $40, no huge loss, other than time and "I hate it when you can't fix stuff".

 

[CalG]

It's too late now, but those seals will ALWAYS let lubrication oil into the bearing after a small amount of use.

I make it a practice to clean the bearing first, then just give the top seal surface a squirt of chain lube and a squirt of motor oil. let that creep into the bearing past the seal, and viola! Extended life through lubrication!

 

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It's too late now, but those seals will ALWAYS let lubrication oil into the bearing after a small amount of use.

I make it a practice to clean the bearing first, then just give the top seal surface a squirt of chain lube and a squirt of motor oil. let that creep into the bearing past the seal, and viola! Extended life through lubrication!

I'll keep it in mind - maybe I can get the replacements to go another 18 years!

 

[Thomas]

"another 18 years!" get that.
Good chance the pully worn from the belt.

 

[anomad]

That reminds me of the pulley on my old Wright a few years ago. It started making an awful noise (even with good earplugs in). The bearing had completely left the chat. I took it to the local mower shop and the parts fella said he had to have a part number... Right... I made a few measurements and had one shipped for like 10 bucks. I made the mistake of using that shop again. That was the last time.

 

[BravoXray]

I had a pulley like that a few years ago on a friends deck that wasn't available. so I drilled out the rivets, the halves separated, popped the bearing out and installed a new one. Bolted it back together and it lasted until he junked the mower several years later.
I think it used a standard 6203 bearing, or something like that, which I had on hand.

 

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Out with the old

In with the new

The other two idlers were still moveable but I could feel they weren't doing too hot (wait a minute they probably were getting hot) too good either. Had to torch one nut to get it moving and used a cheater on another... about 30 minutes total and then a quick lube of the mower spindles and steering spindles.

The mower deck spindles are replacements already - ten years ago according to my ordering history. These ones seem to be working well still; unfortunately for the originals which didn't get lubed... ever. I know what lube zerks are for since then!

 

[panamaguy]

You got 18 and you are concerned enough to make a post about a 40 buck fix? Unbelievable.

 

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You got 18 and you are concerned enough to make a post about a 40 buck fix? Unbelievable.

that's what you got from this thread?

 

[5030]

Mower deck pulley's are all planned obsolence parts, I just replace them as required. Least my front mount deck on my Kubota diesel only has 2 and they guide the flat belt as the spindles themselves are drive shaft driven. 40 bucks today is chump change.

 

[RandyT]

Mower deck pulley's are all planned obsolence parts, I just replace them as required. Least my front mount deck on my Kubota diesel only has 2 and they guide the flat belt as the spindles themselves are drive shaft driven. 40 bucks today is chump change.

Sticker shock should of went out the window a few years ago. Was just looking at a 42" Cub Cadet this morning with the manual pto engagement. Needs new engagement idler arm, but the little brake pads that rub the spindle pulleys to stop the blades when the deck is shut off are worn down to metal. I am going to replace the pads and install new rivets But the little brake bracket assembled is $87.

 

[CalG]

Mower deck pulley's are all planned obsolence parts, I just replace them as required. Least my front mount deck on my Kubota diesel only has 2 and they guide the flat belt as the spindles themselves are drive shaft driven. 40 bucks today is chump change.

For me it's the hassle of getting them.

Far more dicking around than the $40 .

 

[5030]

... and those little brake pads are there just to stop blade rotation sooner. Problem is, whent they wear away, they start to scream. Wife's CC ZTR had them at one time as well. They are extreme planned obsolence.

 

[tomplum]

Sticker shock should of went out the window a few years ago. Was just looking at a 42" Cub Cadet this morning with the manual pto engagement. Needs new engagement idler arm, but the little brake pads that rub the spindle pulleys to stop the blades when the deck is shut off are worn down to metal. I am going to replace the pads and install new rivets But the little brake bracket assembled is $87.

Amazon has the basic arm for 10$ I bought one of those and then repad them ahead with the good pad and rivets. We get to do these a lot. PPD

 

[Alan W.]

I had a pulley like that a few years ago on a friends deck that wasn't available. so I drilled out the rivets, the halves separated, popped the bearing out and installed a new one. Bolted it back together and it lasted until he junked the mower several years later.
I think it used a standard 6203 bearing, or something like that, which I had on hand.

Did the same except I used steel rivets to reassemble. Bearing was cheap compared to the assembly.

 

[BravoXray]

Did the same except I used steel rivets to reassemble. Bearing was cheap compared to the assembly.

I didn't have any rivets (then), but had a bin full of bolts, so I used them. I considered staggering the rivet holes and plug welding the halves together, but went with bolts.

 

[CalG]

Amazon has the basic arm for 10$ I bought one of those and then repad them ahead with the good pad and rivets. We get to do these a lot. PPD

End grain poplar makes long lasting friction material.

 

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... and those little brake pads are there just to stop blade rotation sooner. Problem is, whent they wear away, they start to scream. Wife's CC ZTR had them at one time as well. They are extreme planned obsolence.

I wouldn't characterize brake pads as "planned obsolescence" - some things wear specifically as part of their function.
Bearings aren't meant to wear, but they do; the wearing isn't actually a feature (the wear in brake pads provides the friction, which is good in brakes; wear in bearings is bad).

If you made bearings out of a material that's known not to stand up to the purpose, and you do it on purpose because you want it to wear out sooner, that is planned obsolesence.

 

[tomplum]

I wouldn't characterize brake pads as "planned obsolescence" - some things wear specifically as part of their function.
Bearings aren't meant to wear, but they do; the wearing isn't actually a feature (the wear in brake pads provides the friction, which is good in brakes; wear in bearings is bad).

If you made bearings out of a material that's known not to stand up to the purpose, and you do it on purpose because you want it to wear out sooner, that is planned obsolesence.

The brake pads that Randy refers to, are frankly a money grab by B&D. They wear way faster than typical deck brakes due to the design. They can easily fail in under 100 hours. If you don't replace them, the tension arm comes back far enough, which makes the belt way loose and the idler /engagement pulley hits the deck spindle pulley. Just one more reason, you can pay a bit more earlier- or a lot more later.

 

[RandyT]

I wouldn't characterize brake pads as "planned obsolescence" - some things wear specifically as part of their function.
Bearings aren't meant to wear, but they do; the wearing isn't actually a feature (the wear in brake pads provides the friction, which is good in brakes; wear in bearings is bad).

If you made bearings out of a material that's known not to stand up to the purpose, and you do it on purpose because you want it to wear out sooner, that is planned obsolesence.

This is the brade pad I am referring to.

The picture is turned 90 degrees so the rivets holes would be installed horizontal. The spindle pulley brake edge will wear a 1/4 inch groove above and below the rivets holes and will start on what would be the vertical edge and wear until the grooves reach about the 1/2 way mark across the pad before the pad is worn through and the metal spindle pulley starts making contact with the metal backing plate.