Reclaiming Gravel.

[BufordBoone]

I have about a 1 mile gravel driveway. My maintenance plan, which has worked pretty well, is:

1 - Make multiple passes with an angled landscape rake to bring gravel back onto drive.
2 - Make a few passes with LPGS to smooth the drive.

I find that the landscape rake is just "OK" on pulling gravel back onto the road. I've thought of trying to construct some type of clamp on blade but have not found anything I think will work.

I have a scrape blade that is very heavy and, while it Cuts ditches well, brings too much dirt along with the gravel if I try to use it to reclaim gravel.


I'm thinking a light blade might just do a good job of reclaiming gravel without reshaping the dirt underneath.

Anyone ever used a lightweight scrape blade for reclaiming gravel? TSC has a 6' one that only weighs 213 lbs. They also have a 6' "Professional" that will offset one foot and weighs 256 lbs.

 

[TractorTYMe]

I use my 6' to reclaim the gravel the rain takes down the driveway all the time, off course it's not 1 mile long.....more like 1/4. But I only have to do the hilly section.

 

[Chewwy]

Don’t think blade weight is the only problem. Every scrape blade I have seen is curved. When facing forward it wants to dig unto the road bed. Not so much if you reverse the blade so the curve is pointing backwards. Does more smoothing than digging in.

 

[BufordBoone]

Don’t think blade weight is the only problem. Every scrape blade I have seen is curved. When facing forward it wants to dig unto the road bed. Not so much if you reverse the blade so the curve is pointing backwards. Does more smoothing than digging in.

Current blade is too long to turn around when on my tractor (I inherited it when I bought the farm).

Current blade is so heavy duty that my welding friend said "Don't ever get rid of that".

Perhaps I should try shortening the top link to make mine less aggressive?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I have run my somewhat heavy (1,600 lbs.?) rear blade backwards if the driveway only needs a touchup, but for getting gravel back to the surface the 8' land plane is my weapon of choice.

And I don't necessarily run either one with the 3-point all the way down.

 

[CalG]

I run this type of York rake off the 3pt tool bar.

Model TA26B2 - 6' Rake [002216B2] - $2,083.00 : York Modern

York Modern : Model TA26B2 - 6' Rake [002216B2] - The York Rake Model TA26B2, 6' Width Consists of adjustable trailing hitch and 6' rake. Can be used ...

www.yorkmodern.com

It's not particularly heavy, the sulky wheels control the cut, and the drop down scrape blade can move material efficiently.
For a while, I had the control handle replaced with a hydraulic cylinder so I could change engagement on the fly. But with the draw bar on the 3pt, the elevation is easy to control.

 

[BufordBoone]

I have run my somewhat heavy (1,600 lbs.?) rear blade backwards if the driveway only needs a touchup, but for getting gravel back to the surface the 8' land plane is my weapon of choice.

And I don't necessarily run either one with the 3-point all the way down.

I do the same to get gravel "back to the surface"

This question, however is about getting it moved from the sides back onto the top.

 

[BufordBoone]

I run this type of York rake off the 3pt tool bar.

Model TA26B2 - 6' Rake [002216B2] - $2,083.00 : York Modern

York Modern : Model TA26B2 - 6' Rake [002216B2] - The York Rake Model TA26B2, 6' Width Consists of adjustable trailing hitch and 6' rake. Can be used ...

www.yorkmodern.com

It's not particularly heavy, the sulky wheels control the cut, and the drop down scrape blade can move material efficiently.
For a while, I had the control handle replaced with a hydraulic cylinder so I could change engagement on the fly. But with the draw bar on the 3pt, the elevation is easy to control.

My issue with my rake is that too much gravel goes between the tines.

That blade attachment looks like it would help in that regard.

 

[CalG]

My issue with my rake is that too much gravel goes between the tines.

That blade attachment looks like it would help in that regard.

The fold down blade is available as an add on for about $350 from York. If it would work with your rake, I can not say.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I do the same to get gravel "back to the surface"

This question, however is about getting it moved from the sides back onto the top.

If using the rear blade I run it angled so the gravel goes from the edges towards the center of the driveway.

With the land plane it ends up there automatically since its cutting edges are angled.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Try a board or 2X6 clamped or bolted ( "U" bolts ?? / Sandwich the tine between the 2X6 and a backing board with bolts running thru both ??) to the inside of your rake tines.

gg

 

[BufordBoone]

Try a board or 2X6 clamped or bolted ( "U" bolts ?? / Sandwich the tine between the 2X6 and a backing board with bolts running thru both ??) to the inside of your rake tines.

gg

What a great idea!

The thickness of the 2x6 would also help prevent it from digging in and moving dirt as well as the gravel I want it to move.

Thanks.

 

[nyone]

I'm thinking a light blade might just do a good job of reclaiming gravel without reshaping the dirt underneath

No it wont. They just bend in half.

I also have a heavy cat 1/2 rear blade I ran down my driveway once. It was way to aggressive. I use a landscape rake fully angled with every other tooth removed. Does fine for my 700' driveway with a wide turn in it.

 

[RayIN]

What a great idea!

The thickness of the 2x6 would also help prevent it from digging in and moving dirt as well as the gravel I want it to move.

Thanks.

I was thinking of this while reading all the replies. I'd leave the rake teeth exposed about 1" to loosen lodged gravel/ crushed stone. Yes, lengthen top link to reduce aggressiveness.

 

[zzvyb6]

3pt rototiller/ Wait for a heavy rain. Wear ear muffs to lessen the noise. The dirt & sand that comes up with it will disappear after another rain. Then comb and crown it with a landscape rake. I've done it many times. a bit of wear on the teeth, but nothing compared to truckloads of new gravel.

 

[Chewwy]

Current blade is too long to turn around when on my tractor (I inherited it when I bought the farm).

Current blade is so heavy duty that my welding friend said "Don't ever get rid of that".

Perhaps I should try shortening the top link to make mine less aggressive?

Just how wide is your blade? I can turn the 5 ft. blade around on my Kubota without any difficulty. Your 2 listed machines are larger than my L3240.

Are you sure you can’t shorten the top link and then raise the 3 pt sufficiently to gain enough clearance to rotate your blade?

 

[dodge man]

You can turn your blade around, you just have to take it off to do it.

 

[BufordBoone]

Just how wide is your blade? I can turn the 5 ft. blade around on my Kubota without any difficulty. Your 2 listed machines are larger than my L3240.

Are you sure you can’t shorten the top link and then raise the 3 pt sufficiently to gain enough clearance to rotate your blade?

I think the blade is 8'. I'll try shortening the top link. Didn't think of that last time.

Thanks.

 

[CoyPatton]

Current blade is too long to turn around when on my tractor (I inherited it when I bought the farm).

Current blade is so heavy duty that my welding friend said "Don't ever get rid of that".

Perhaps I should try shortening the top link to make mine less aggressive?

Set the bland down leaned against a low object (I have used stumps). Disconnect and swing the lift frame around. Then hook back up. Yes your object needs to be approachable from both directions. Or after swung around, lift with loader (if tractor has one) spin the blade around and lower, the reconnect.
If you can push your gravel in reverse you can test for results.

Also consider a cross brace in the tines of your rake. Get 2 pieces of steel the length of your rake’s width. Use bolts that will fit between your times, drill matching holes about every 6” across your rake and bolt the pieces of steel to your rake. You can vary the tension of your tines be height placement of the brace. I would think 1/8 or 3/16 steel would be plenty strong and then wide enough to provide strength at drilled holes 1” or 1 1/4” should be find.
If it doesn’t work, holes in steel can be used for plug welds on other projects.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I use the same approach to maintaining my 1.25 mile private road. I have an 8' York rake with grader blade and gauge wheels. I also use a T&T kit, which makes the rake far more useful for cleaning ditches and getting a good crown:

Without the grader blade, the tines are spaced too far apart and leave the fines behind. Working the material too much tends to separate out the coarse gravel, and without the fines, it's difficult to get the graded surface to hold its shape.