RandyT
Elite Member
If you were looking at getting a new saw, and have the need for a 24 inch bar with the option of using a 36 when needed to cut off stumps what would you get.
I have a Stihl MS460 that I usually run a 24" bar on. I have used a 32" bar for large trees. I have a 36" for it but haven't used it. I think 36" would cut slow. The 460 is a pretty healthy 77cc saw so you're probably looking in the 80cc class, like a 500i. Or a 90cc class saw like a 660. The 660s are the best of the Chinese clones of older Stihls and would be useful if you need a 36" bar often. But at least for me, they're overkill for a 24" bar. A 660 weighs a lot more than a 460 and is much harder to start.If you were looking at getting a new saw, and have the need for a 24 inch bar with the option of using a 36 when needed to cut off stumps what would you get.
A couple real easy mods will make it run even better. Get rid of the top baffle on the muff but keep the USDA spark arrestor screen and pull the limiter caps and tune it a bit and then replace the caps. Echo from the factory sets them a tad rich.Don’t know about running a 36” on it but I love my Echo cs620 running a 24”. Great rugged built saw for the money.
Sometimes that 36 that we have now won't even span 1/2 the stump and have to to be chunked off just to reach the center piece.I have a Stihl MS460 that I usually run a 24" bar on. I have used a 32" bar for large trees. I have a 36" for it but haven't used it. I think 36" would cut slow. The 460 is a pretty healthy 77cc saw so you're probably looking in the 80cc class, like a 500i. Or a 90cc class saw like a 660. The 660s are the best of the Chinese clones of older Stihls and would be useful if you need a 36" bar often. But at least for me, they're overkill for a 24" bar. A 660 weighs a lot more than a 460 and is much harder to start.
On large stumps I cut from all sides, so I don't need a bar that will span the entire trunk. If the bar isn't through the trunk I don't have to worry about the far end that I can't see going into dirt.
Stump job I looked at 3 weeks ago included 2 60+ inch stumps that were cut off 6 feet high. and included 3 more stumps from 30-60 inches 6 inches above ground level but the stumps were cut off 2 feet high.Where my stump grinder excells. I don't worry about sticking loops in the dirt which dulls them immediately and I'm not about to buy a very expensive carbide tipped chain either
Randy, you might want to go to a skip tooth chipper chain that will allow the smaller saw to keep up with the demands.
Bouncing between the 500i and the 661. Which comes down to the 500i is slightly undersized to run a 36 inch effectively, but a 24 inch on a 661 is overkill.I have a Stihl MS460 that I usually run a 24" bar on. I have used a 32" bar for large trees. I have a 36" for it but haven't used it. I think 36" would cut slow. The 460 is a pretty healthy 77cc saw so you're probably looking in the 80cc class, like a 500i. Or a 90cc class saw like a 660. The 660s are the best of the Chinese clones of older Stihls and would be useful if you need a 36" bar often. But at least for me, they're overkill for a 24" bar. A 660 weighs a lot more than a 460 and is much harder to start.
On large stumps I cut from all sides, so I don't need a bar that will span the entire trunk. If the bar isn't through the trunk I don't have to worry about the far end that I can't see going into dirt.