Slowpoke Slim
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 3,915
- Location
- Bismarck, ND
- Tractor
- Husqvarna YTH24V48 riding mower, Branson 3725CH
And I'll bet a tire full of molasses runs great at -40 F(C).
Where can i buy rim guard/beat juice in bulk?
oldnslo
Super Member
Thump, thump, thump
jyoutz
Super Star Member
At -40F I don’t run great and would have no interest in starting my tractor.
Squirrel's242
Bronze Member
Just throwing in some info for this thread.
Because of this post I ordered GeoBEET and today was delivered (2)55 gallon drums. They ran $219ea plug shipping.
As for the unloading, I'm trying to determine if I should be happy or bummed about the tractor's performance (LS MT242 w LL3003 loader); it wouldn't curl the load it could carry, running at 2500rpm, about topped out.
Both drums were wrapped on one pallet. The fluid weights approx 11lbs/gal. Giving me 1210lbs of fluid, plus pallet and container weight, and 275lbs of 42" pallet forks/mount. All totaling around 1600lbs. Had the pallet tucked all the way to the mount plate as I could.
The loader lifted the pallet off the truck fine but I could not get the loader to curl so I could lower the load. Had the driver lift gate it to the ground and I picked up the pallet from there, and was able to barely curl the pallet. Of course picking up from the ground the load naturally tilted back when lifted. According to LS specs, max lift capacity @ the pin 2506lb and breakout force @ pin 3723lbs.
So how has this worked out for you? How did you put it in? My local dealer quoted me $700 in my LS MT347.
Bearsixty7
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2015
- Messages
- 1,527
- Location
- St. Paul TX
- Tractor
- LS MT240HE (6/2020). JD LA145. TYM T754C (6/10/25)
Sounds like the pressure may need checked and adjusted.
Squirrel's242
Bronze Member
I've had the tires loaded now since abt the time I did this post. Very happy with the results. The tractor feels more set, a lot of the bounce was reduced.
I haven't lifted anything recently like unloading the beet juice pallet..maybe the big 100gal 5' rectangle diesel fuel storage tank I have and the tractor did fine. I had full control. But IDT that tank weighed what the pallet did. Tank was almost empty.
ETA: looked at my records, I spent $702 for the fluid (55galsx2) and $159 for the pump. I did my tractor and dads. I have probably like 5gals leftover from it all, plus the 2 barrels I'm repurposing. So, that quote is not far off. Just consider your time cost/work and pros/cons or diy vs service do it.
The easiest, fastest, cleanest fill setup I used is:
- 2 sections of garden hose
- 110v liquid transfer pump from TSC
- water adapter for the hose/tire valve
- extension cord for the pump and surge protector
- jack and jack stands, cribbing (if on dirt)
- tire valve tool
- tire gauge
- air compress or pump
- fluid/juice/antifreeze/whateveryouchoose
- a catch bucket
- bucket of clean water and shop rag
Park your tractor on level ground. Chock your front tires. Get the rear jacked up and secured on stands. I used a 3T floor jack under the center draw bar and 6T stands under the axles, both wheels up at once so I could spin them.
Hook up one end of a hose section to the pump inlet, drop the other end of the hose in the beet juice barrel (long enough its deep in the fluid).
Hook the other section of hose to the outlet of the pump, then the other end of the hose to the water adapter valve.
Plug in the pump w extension cord, put the surge protector in line to use the on/off switch as your on off switch if the pump doesn't have an on/off switch.
Spin tires, one tire, position valve at 12oclock. Let the air out. Remove the valve, don't lose it.
Hook up the water valve to the tire valve, pump for a few minutes. Stop to bleed the air from the valve. Put the catch bucket under there before you bleed so you don't get beet juice everywhere. You'll get the hang of how long you can run the pump before you need to bleed the air. You'll hear a change in sound too. Do that until the tire is full to the bottom of the valve. If you get solid flow of fluid, you over filled, keep releasing it. you can unscrew the adapter valve and let the fluid drain until it stops, use your catch bucket.
Use the clean bucket of water as your hand rinse bucket. It makes a world of difference to keep your hands and the work parts clean.
Rise the tire valve off of excess fluid, reinstall the tire valve. Pump tire to ~15-20psi...or whatever psi you prefer or tread contact.
Swap the setup to the other side and do the process again for the other tire.
Remember not to let your tractor down on fluid filled tires w no valve or air pressure, the fluid will all squirt out.
Thats the basic gist of it. Watch some tractor tire fill videos for visuals, it'll make sense. Just take your time. Don't rush this job. Its simple but don't wreck yourself for a brainfart.
I used a thermal scope at night to check my work. Fluid showed up warmer in the tires so I can see the fill line.
Maybe mark your wheel w a Sharpi it has fluid. Always chk psi w tire valve at 12ocklock. Rinse all the stuff you used immediately, keep your stuff clean.
I did my tractor then took the setup on the road 2hrs away to Dads and did his JD1025r.
I did start w the stupid drill pump. It stripped out. Don't use that piece of junk. It took forever w no results. Use a fluid transfer pump and be done w it. I had to fill ~84gals so that took a while until I figured out the drill pump was messed up and I went bought a transfer pump. Was done much quicker.
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Squirrel's242
Bronze Member
That may very well be the case. I'll revisit it when I can. I'd like to solve it for my knowledge.