Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,621  
BTW, that trailer really was not very expensive. I think it was only $3600'ish back in 2016 or 2018. I did spend several hundred more on the winch, big batteries, and other accoutrement, maybe under $4500 total investment. Lots less than a tractor!
TRUE, but who buys a tractor "just to load logs"?

SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,622  
TRUE, but who buys a tractor "just to load logs"?
I'm probably a rare bird, in that regard. I use my tractor for many other things, literally every weekend, since I have it. But if not for my firewood usage, I might still just have my old 1963 Cub Cadet 123 garden tractor. It did literally everything else I ever needed... except moving logs.

PC300003.JPG

I had a dump wagon for that tractor, which is much less handy than an FEL for moving dirt or mulch, but I'm not sure I'd ever have even bothered to explore the FEL option, if not for moving heavy firewood rounds... and then later full logs.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,623  
I had planned to build a pivoting log arch on mind, essentially a pair of hinge points on top of the railings, with a U-shaped hoop that would pivot fore/aft, and a snatch block in the middle of the hoop to lift logs off the ground and onto the trailer. But I never got around to it, and with a 7500 winch, brute force has a way of making things work. The only flaw in my system is the expanded metal tailgate takes a beating.

I try to keep a sheet of old plywood handy to throw between the tailgate and oncoming log, but getting the log up onto the plywood can be a bit of a thing, and keeping it from sliding out is a little bit of a hassle.

BTW, that trailer really was not very expensive. I think it was only $3600'ish back in 2016 or 2018. I did spend several hundred more on the winch, big batteries, and other accoutrement, maybe under $4500 total investment. Lots less than a tractor!
If that trailer was $3600 in 2016, it is probably $4500 now. WAY more than I want to spend on a trailer. Don't get me wrong it is awesome, I just don't have that kind of money right now.

Your system works for most logs, but a log arch would work for all logs. I still have a good number of mill logs in my yard but I am trying to stay ahead of it. Not sure I have the resources to get a log arch trailer put together right now. But if I keep on milling I feel like it is something I will have to make eventually to keep this mill fed. I have been lucky to get some good logs delivered from tree services but it is very hit or miss. I think with a log arch trailer you could get unlimited logs, you just have to just put in the work.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,624  
What type of stove do you have that likes those nicely chunked up pieces of wood ? And how do you process that wood ? Very efficient usage - you don't leave much that will burn.

gg
Dry the wood through summer, anything larger than what you see gets split, the burner is french made don't know if it's available in the states
What type of stove do you have that likes those nicely chunked up pieces of wood ? And how do you process that wood ? Very efficient usage - you don't leave much that will burn.

gg
 

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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,625  
I call that a perfect winter day… how’s the traction in the snow ? i guess the lack of friction from the logs compensate for the lack of traction from the tires and things equals out ?

With those big loaded rears and chains on all four the snow has to be pretty deep and mealy for traction to be a problem.

gg

Even in my NH TC33D (relatively undersized for logging) traction has not been a problem unless I have heavy, dense snow piled up enough to bottom out with the belly pan. If it gets away from me, I can just push through the light stuff. The big, heavy snow piled deep can slow me down too much to be worth working, unless I keep it packed down. If I know I'll be doing some logging, I try to stay ahead of things by running enough on the trails to keep them packed down.

Tractor has "Euro-style" studded rear chains (similar to Gordon's) and filled rear tires. No chains on the front, and the R4 tires are well worn, so I do occasionally need to add some brake steering.

As long as I have the trails packed down, I find it easier to skid in the winter (and less damaging to the trails).
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,626  
If that trailer was $3600 in 2016, it is probably $4500 now. WAY more than I want to spend on a trailer. Don't get me wrong it is awesome, I just don't have that kind of money right now.

Your system works for most logs, but a log arch would work for all logs. I still have a good number of mill logs in my yard but I am trying to stay ahead of it. Not sure I have the resources to get a log arch trailer put together right now. But if I keep on milling I feel like it is something I will have to make eventually to keep this mill fed. I have been lucky to get some good logs delivered from tree services but it is very hit or miss. I think with a log arch trailer you could get unlimited logs, you just have to just put in the work.
I’ve pulled single logs into this trailer that exceed the GTWR, so no need for a log arch for any particular log, I don’t leave anything useful behind. What log can you image I’d pick with an arch, that I cannot without? I think I’d be apt to avoid using the arch on the largest and heaviest logs, not the other way around.

Keep in mind, I move more logs per year than most full-time burners do in a decade. The only place I’ve found where an arch would be a huge benefit is in stacking many smaller logs, since that’s a bit tedious without the arch to lift them up over what’s already in the trailer. But since most of what I haul is large and heavy enough to preclude stacking, I’ve just never had enough justification for building the arch.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,627  
I’ve pulled single logs into this trailer that exceed the GTWR, so no need for a log arch for any particular log, I don’t leave anything useful behind. What log can you image I’d pick with an arch, that I cannot without? I think I’d be apt to avoid using the arch on the largest and heaviest logs, not the other way around.

Keep in mind, I move more logs per year than most full-time burners do in a decade. The only place I’ve found where an arch would be a huge benefit is in stacking many smaller logs, since that’s a bit tedious without the arch to lift them up over what’s already in the trailer. But since most of what I haul is large and heavy enough to preclude stacking, I’ve just never had enough justification for building the arch.
Hmm, ok good to know. 20-28" logs are kind of my wheelhouse, any bigger and it gets to be a pain on my mill. Maybe a combo of a good winch and a non-expanded metal ramp will be the ticket. I was not looking forward to fabbing up an arch anyways. Ain't nobody got time for that. What would you recommend for a ramp system that would work better than what you have?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,633  
20-28" logs are kind of my wheelhouse, any bigger and it gets to be a pain on my mill.
For many years, I was cutting on the land of an older friend, and he had 30 acres of mature PA hardwoods... mostly oak with ash and poplar. We'd leave the poplars rot in the woods, grab all the oak we could, and take the ash and others (sassafras) as we had time or space for them.

Anyway, he was getting up in years, so I'd leave all the really friendly sizes for him, and bring home the stupid big'uns for myself. Lots and lots and lots of trees over 36" diameter, in fast most of the dying ash were right around the 40" mark, making me think they must've all started around the same time.

The largest single rounds I ever brought home were from a 60" diameter white oak that was rotten in the center from the ground up to a height of maybe 18 feet. I left the rotten part in the woods, but brought home everything above that. We figured single rounds at Ø49" x 20" must have weighed over 1400 lb. each. It was fun getting them onto the splitter.

I used to take pics of this, but once it became routine and less novel, got lazy about that. Here's an old one of my buddy skidding some of mine out of the woods, he has since passed.

IMG_4912.JPG IMG_4917.JPG

Here's some even older, with a 36" bar on my saw for scale, and my old 855 struggling to stack some "medium" (36-inch? tractor tires are 33") rounds after bringing them home. I don't move rounds anymore, only whole logs now that I have a tractor that can actually lift them.

IMG_6188.JPG IMG_5127.JPG


Maybe a combo of a good winch and a non-expanded metal ramp will be the ticket. I was not looking forward to fabbing up an arch anyways. Ain't nobody got time for that. What would you recommend for a ramp system that would work better than what you have?
Good winch is a must, but to be honest, I'd buy one that's faster and less strong than what I have. I bought a 7500# job, which is more likely to break the trailer than anything else, if it ever hits a snag and exerts maximum pull. I only bought that model because I got more than half off, due to a clearance sale, and I had plans to "downgrade" it with gearing out of their faster 5000# variant... but never did.

As to the tailgate, you don't want anything that's going to act as an air brake, speaking in sailing or aeronautical terms. If it's solid, you'll likely want it to be removable for driving. However that might also go along with making it easily-replaceable, since it's going to take a beating. One easy option is plywood or aluminum plate, and some carriage bolts with fender washers and wing nuts. Install it when pulling logs, remove and stow it when driving.

Using a scrap of loose plywood has always worked well enough for me, excepting the fact that I sometimes forget to bring one with me. Thankfully, nearly every time that has ever happened, someone else on-site has had something I could use.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,634  
For many years, I was cutting on the land of an older friend, and he had 30 acres of mature PA hardwoods... mostly oak with ash and poplar. We'd leave the poplars rot in the woods, grab all the oak we could, and take the ash and others (sassafras) as we had time or space for them.

Anyway, he was getting up in years, so I'd leave all the really friendly sizes for him, and bring home the stupid big'uns for myself. Lots and lots and lots of trees over 36" diameter, in fast most of the dying ash were right around the 40" mark, making me think they must've all started around the same time.

The largest single rounds I ever brought home were from a 60" diameter white oak that was rotten in the center from the ground up to a height of maybe 18 feet. I left the rotten part in the woods, but brought home everything above that. We figured single rounds at Ø49" x 20" must have weighed over 1400 lb. each. It was fun getting them onto the splitter.

I used to take pics of this, but once it became routine and less novel, got lazy about that. Here's an old one of my buddy skidding some of mine out of the woods, he has since passed.

View attachment 2410271 View attachment 2410272

Here's some even older, with a 36" bar on my saw for scale, and my old 855 struggling to stack some "medium" (36-inch? tractor tires are 33") rounds after bringing them home. I don't move rounds anymore, only whole logs now that I have a tractor that can actually lift them.

View attachment 2410274 View attachment 2410273



Good winch is a must, but to be honest, I'd buy one that's faster and less strong than what I have. I bought a 7500# job, which is more likely to break the trailer than anything else, if it ever hits a snag and exerts maximum pull. I only bought that model because I got more than half off, due to a clearance sale, and I had plans to "downgrade" it with gearing out of their faster 5000# variant... but never did.

As to the tailgate, you don't want anything that's going to act as an air brake, speaking in sailing or aeronautical terms. If it's solid, you'll likely want it to be removable for driving. However that might also go along with making it easily-replaceable, since it's going to take a beating. One easy option is plywood or aluminum plate, and some carriage bolts with fender washers and wing nuts. Install it when pulling logs, remove and stow it when driving.

Using a scrap of loose plywood has always worked well enough for me, excepting the fact that I sometimes forget to bring one with me. Thankfully, nearly every time that has ever happened, someone else on-site has had something I could use.
how old you think these are ? have you ever count it's rings ?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,635  
how old you think these are ? have you ever count it's rings ?
Not usually. I had tried a few times in the past, but it’s between tedious and impossible on some of that really old stuff. I’m surrounded by old houses (late 1600’s and up), and live in one myself, but somehow find old trees much less interesting… they all burn the same!

I do recall that the 6 ft. diameter white oak I mentioned above was taken from a local church’s picnic grove, and we have documentation showing it was already a large tree by the early 1800’s, as the minutes recorded at the picnic talk about it being hosted under the shade of that tree. I think one of the guys at the church tried counting rings from the not-rotten part of the tree, but don’t remember the result.

There are a few discs cut from large or significant trees in the area, one at a church just up the road, where someone has tagged various rings with years and significant events such as the Civil War or Rev. War. Those are neat… but I’d burn ‘em. :p
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,636  
Not usually. I had tried a few times in the past, but it’s between tedious and impossible on some of that really old stuff. I’m surrounded by old houses (late 1600’s and up), and live in one myself, but somehow find old trees much less interesting… they all burn the same!

I do recall that the 6 ft. diameter white oak I mentioned above was taken from a local church’s picnic grove, and we have documentation showing it was already a large tree by the early 1800’s, as the minutes recorded at the picnic talk about it being hosted under the shade of that tree. I think one of the guys at the church tried counting rings from the not-rotten part of the tree, but don’t remember the result.

There are a few discs cut from large or significant trees in the area, one at a church just up the road, where someone has tagged various rings with years and significant events such as the Civil War or Rev. War. Those are neat… but I’d burn ‘em. :p
yeah I was just curious, a search I did suggested that white Oak as generally 5 to 10 rings per inch so at 55'' it would be anywhere between 250 to 400 years old, that 6' would be between 360 to 720 years old, that's pretty insane to me...
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,637  
yeah I was just curious, a search I did suggested that white Oak as generally 5 to 10 rings per inch so at 55'' it would be anywhere between 250 to 400 years old, that 6' would be between 360 to 720 years old, that's pretty insane to me...
That’s cool. But that tree was only 6 ft. diameter at knee height, where I left the stump. The diameter at breast height (DBH) usually used by harvesters was probably only 60 inches on that tree.

I do remember measuring the rounds I brought home from above 20 feet height were all around 49 inch diameter, because I did a quick calculation on the 20” lengths I was cutting when it was time to move them onto the hydraulic splitter, and figured they must weigh 1400-1500 lb. each. I ended up “noodling” them into 6” slabs, probably around 220 lb. each, and much easier to move onto a splitter.

Another thing I’ve noticed, having spent most of my life working on very old houses, is that the growth ring count of old wood is literally double or triple that of newer wood. The reason isn’t so much about the age of the wood, but the conditions under which it grew, any tree having grown up in a forest having much denser ring count than a tree that grew in a yard or field. Managed lumber, as we have it now seems to be mostly grown as a crop in a field, and thus the trees put on a lot of girth quickly each season. But a 300+ year old tree probably spent at least most of its early life growing under dense forest shade, so the ring counts are probably denser as you move in from the outside.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,638  
yeah I was just curious, a search I did suggested that white Oak as generally 5 to 10 rings per inch so at 55'' it would be anywhere between 250 to 400 years old, that 6' would be between 360 to 720 years old, that's pretty insane to me...
I'm glad it was only "suggested", because this white oak had just over 100 rings,

Resized-20240212-160055-S.jpg


It REALLY depends on the climate and where it grows.

A lot of this one is going into a building,

Resized-20240212-161049-S.jpg


and it made a lot of firewood too,

Resized-20240212-151736-S.jpg


SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,639  
Oh, and I guess I shouldn’t admit this, but I just broke up and tossed a 2” thick slab from a 30”+ red oak in the fire pit last weekend. I‘ll check today to see if any of it survived the fire, since everything was wet at the time.

I guess that’d been a good one to count. It was growing on the edge of the 150 acre farm on which my house is located, but now part of a neighbor’s property. It died last summer, or so I was told, another neighbor cut it down and left the logs piled for me.
 

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