New utility tractor (100hp range)

   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #1  

neokane

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2025
Messages
26
Tractor
jd 4020
Looking at new utility tractors in the 100-120hp range.

Looking at either an LS MT7101, a kioti hx1151, TYM 115/130 or a Zetor 120.
All dealers are an hour or more away so dealer location is trivial unless I want to fork over money for green.

Doing field work/row crops, and hay
Pros and cons?
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #2  
I have been going through this and honestly came up empty handed. But that's because I don't want a clutch-to-shift tractor, and nobody offers an HST or IVT in that range. The best you can find is something with 2 power shift ranges, but manual shift gears and other ranges, or 4 to 8 power-shift gears, and manual shift ranges. The exception is Fendt who offer an IVT (they call it Vario), but they are very expensive and the closest dealer for me is 300 miles away. Deere used to have the 5R which had 4x8 power shift ranges & speeds. Also Massey has the 5700 Global series with 4x4 power shift ranges & speeds, but it's bigger than the Deere 5 series.

By my wants/desires are clearly unique, as demonstrated by product offerings in this size.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #3  
Looking at new utility tractors in the 100-120hp range.

Looking at either an LS MT7101, a kioti hx1151, TYM 115/130 or a Zetor 120.
All dealers are an hour or more away so dealer location is trivial unless I want to fork over money for green.

Doing field work/row crops, and hay
Pros and cons?

If you are doing field work, row crops and hay (this is what I do, too), I would not suggest buying a “utility” tractor. You should buy a farm/ag tractor.

I’d be looking at AGCO/Massey, Case-IH, Deere, etc.
The brands you listed are fine for mowing, loader work, woods work, etc., but were not designed from the ground up as a farm tractor except for the Zetor. They do build farm tractors.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range)
  • Thread Starter
#4  
If you are doing field work, row crops and hay (this is what I do, too), I would not suggest buying a “utility” tractor. You should buy a farm/ag tractor.

I’d be looking at AGCO/Massey, Case-IH, Deere, etc.
The brands you listed are fine for mowing, loader work, woods work, etc., but were not designed from the ground up as a farm tractor except for the Zetor. They do build farm tractors.
Maybe need to clarify. We have a jd 7000 30/6 row planter. And nothing large as far as discs or soil conditioners. Mostly loamy soils. So I would think for the sub 150ish acres plus would be adequate.
Future desires would be to get a drill for beans and hay etc.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #5  
Maybe need to clarify. We have a jd 7000 30/6 row planter. And nothing large as far as discs or soil conditioners. Mostly loamy soils. So I would think for the sub 150ish acres plus would be adequate.
Future desires would be to get a drill for beans and hay etc.
I tried small-medium sized farming with Kubota tractors (M-135X and M-126X) with disappointing results. By 3000 hours with above average care, they both started to fall apart.
I sold them and bought legacy brand tractors. They are faring much better, even with 6,000-10,000 hours on them.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range)
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Interesting.. I'm very curious about this Zetor proxima 120 a dealer has. But was leaning hard towards the LS mt7101.
The new tym t130 also looked promising.
Just seems like legacy tractors are at a premium right now. 4020s and 4440s pull a premium. Would like some creature comfort and a buddy seat for my toddler.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #7  
Interesting..
It was disappointing to say the least. I expected more. Most of the tractor was ok, but I found the Kubota was lighter built by like 40% in weight and the hydraulics were much weaker.
Here’s a photo comparison of my 2 135HP tractors. Both are 2010’s. The AGCO Challengers tires are about 40% larger than the “comparable” Kubota. It weighs 5,000 more pounds. The loader/hydraulic pump lits twice as much. The front & rear axles are 50% bigger. Only thing they share in common is they’re both 135HP.

1737723855651.jpeg




I'm very curious about this Zetor proxima 120 a dealer has. But was leaning hard towards the LS mt7101.
The new tym t130 also looked promising.
Just seems like legacy tractors are at a premium right now. 4020s and 4440s pull a premium. Would like some creature comfort and a buddy seat for my toddler.
The premium is for the purpose-built heavier Ag built components and the ag dealer support.

You’d be much better off with a used legacy brand real Ag tractor than a new aisian utility tractor. It doesn’t have to be an old open station noisy thing. Look for a 10 year old Massey, Deere, Case-IH, Challenger, etc. They have cabs/AC/buddy seats/all the comforts, too.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #8  
Look at older 150 hp tractors for a 6 row planter.
Won’t be long till you need a big disc.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #10  
If you take hay dudes advice make sure you know what version of tractor you are looking at. ie budget or premium farmer or contractor.
Example: MF 5665, is a budget tractor aimed at low to moderate use stock farmers. This shows in a small fuel tank (145 l )(can't mow hay all day)and a reduced (slow) capasity hydraulic pump.
The premium farmer and contractor versions have larger fuel tank, and higher capasity (lift heavier an faster) hydrualic pump.
I recommend you pay attention to the transmission as that will have a large effect on how easy/frustrating the tractor is to drive.
Identify the main work speed for the tasks you want to achieve. THEN identify the speed you need to stick shift. Do you need to stick shift close to your main work speed? Does the power shift overlap the stick shift to reduce the stick shifts in your main work speed?
EG JD quad box 100 hp has a 6 sp stick shift with a 4sp power shift in each gear, BUT when mowing hay you have a stick shift slap in the main mowing speed range. JD 140 hp quad box has a 5 sp stick shift and 4 sp power shift. NO stick shift in main work speed. So you only use the power shift. FAR BETTER when mowing all day, and stacking 200 - 900 round bales per customer.
EG MF gearbox. You will probably be looking at the 16 sp, 4 stick shift and 4sp power shift.You run into the 100hp JD problem. There is also a 4sp stick shift with a 6 sp power shift that gives plenty of gear overlap to reduce the stick shifts.
Note that both JD and MF offer an auto shift option in these gear boxes, EXCELLLENT for bale stacking and variable speed work.

I second Hay Dudes advice and would add, look at a used contractors level tractor and see the options and don' be scared off by 5k hours.

I google image searched vermont. The land contour is similar to my families farm.
Ergonomics. Try the tractors for fit. Eg JD scv controls have a better lever angle than MF does.(twin rotor rake, 1 lever /rotor, more comfortable to use)
Windscreen wiper in MF is better(reaches top) than JD if you are tall.
EG MF you can hit the roof if you are tall on big bumps. Major pain in the neck.
If you are going to do a lot of loader work get self leveling if you can afford it.
Test a tractor with OPEN circut hydraulics back to back with a tractor with CLOSED circut hydraulics. Manually level a bucket (loaded)as you lift and you will see what I mean.

Good Luck
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #11  
Tractor transmission = ease of use & precision.
A CVT is more $ but allows you the ability to feather the speed to 1/100th of a MPH to get just the perfect speed for any job. Loader, baling, drilling, snowplowing, roading.
Anything I do within my scope of work, my CVT’s have the perfect speed.
I used to downplay the importance of this until I got my first CVT tractor 10 years ago.
What I have noticed is that used tractors with CVT’s don’t cost a lot more than full powershift tractors.

15 years ago, a guy told me “If you buy a CVT, you’ll never drive anything else.”
He was 100% right. I don’t even look at anything other than a CVT tractor.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #12  
Tractor Weight = traction, strength, safety, stability.

While the Asian brand tractors in most cases tout high HP to weight ratios, remember that a unique aspect to tractors is they put more power to the ground if they are heavier. Traction increases with weight. Safety & stability increases because the tractor stays planted to the ground better.
Generally speaking, legacy brand Ag tractors are safer and more stable than “Asian style”, lightweight/high HP tractors.

The 2 tractors I owned which I showed side by side are the same HP, but the American owned Ag tractor is much more capable because it takes its 135HP and transfers it to the ground much more effectively which means better traction. It also is more stable.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #13  
Taller R-1 Tractor Wheels & Tires = Better comfort, ride, ground clearance and traction.

Usually Ag tractors will have a taller rim/tire combination. The traction aspect is a no brainer. R1’s give 10X the traction of R4’s. But the other thing to look at is the height of the tires. Larger diameter tires absorb bumps on the ground better. This results in safer conditions on bad ground, especially when carrying something in the loader. They also give more ground clearance for clearing rocks on the ground.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #14  
I don't have any first hand experience with any of the brands you listed, or need for that much HP. When I was looking, I went with Massey because it was so much heavier then anything else in it's class, and built for AG instead of home owners doing chores around their places.

My neighbor has a couple of Zetor's, and he's a huge fan, but both are under 100 hp. Our local dealer has been selling Zetor for decades, but the reason I didn't go with Zetor after looking at them is the experience my neighbor has had with repairs and buying parts. I don't know if he ever tries to buy parts online, but when he goes to the dealer, they are never in stock, and it could be a week, a month or several months to get what he wants. About two years ago both his tractors were down for most of the summer. He had to hire people to mow his fields and trails.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #15  
I don't have any first hand experience with any of the brands you listed, or need for that much HP. When I was looking, I went with Massey because it was so much heavier then anything else in it's class, and built for AG instead of home owners doing chores around their places.
Now you know why I use the terms, "tinkertoy" tractor and "farm tractor", farm tractors are just built MUCH stronger even with the same HP as the tinkertoy tractor.

BTW, we have a good Zetor dealer here, so like with every brand, parts ect. all depend on where you live.

SR
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #16  
I don't have any first hand experience with any of the brands you listed, or need for that much HP. When I was looking, I went with Massey because it was so much heavier then anything else in it's class, and built for AG instead of home owners doing chores around their places.

My neighbor has a couple of Zetor's, and he's a huge fan, but both are under 100 hp. Our local dealer has been selling Zetor for decades, but the reason I didn't go with Zetor after looking at them is the experience my neighbor has had with repairs and buying parts. I don't know if he ever tries to buy parts online, but when he goes to the dealer, they are never in stock, and it could be a week, a month or several months to get what he wants. About two years ago both his tractors were down for most of the summer. He had to hire people to mow his fields and trails.
In just don’t understand manufacturers doing this. I get coming into a new market and wanting to sell tractors. But if you want to KEEP selling something you need to support the ones you already sold. To me, every part for every tractor should stocked within a domestic ground shipment range. Plus the ability to expedite. That’s what the business requires if you want to be serious about it. A tractor sitting for weeks, let alone months is just unacceptable.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #17  
To the OP. Hay Dude is right about the CVT over other gearboxes, and you should have a serious look at it, then decide if the advantages out weigh the cost.
Note also, Hay Dudes advice about weight, and how it helps put power to the ground.

I infered that you had a limited budget, but a reread shows otherwise.

Ask about a 3 way seat (air ride) as they make a HUGE difference over a 2 way air ride seat. Your back will thank you. Mission creep is inevitable and this will help future proof your tractor.
Gearbox type and hydraulic pump size and number of scv outlets are the main things I look for.

Suggestion: if you are planning on doing hay(large rounds) look at loader suspension.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #18  
CVT in the 100 HP? Only in the Fendt 200 series as far as I am aware and that's probably 2 or 2.5 times the price of any of the tractors listed in the first post.
 
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #19  
   / New utility tractor (100hp range) #20  
I have been real curious about these Fendt tractors after reading about them on here and the fact that I have never seen one in these parts on anyone's farm, so I put in my zip code in the dealer locator and there isn't one dealer in the state of Florida, maybe that will change but until it does I am sure farmers in these parts will stay green, orange and red, even blue has just about faded out in this area. The one thing I have always liked about John Deere is the fact of getting parts quickly and having a dealer that will deliver them right in the field, no matter what brand you go with make sure you have parts and service.
 

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