Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[wolc123]

I’ve never paid for firewood, but in my area (western NY), it’s sold by the face cord. Cherry fetches top buck and sells for double what ash does. It’s worth it, in my opinion. Biggest advantage for me is less frequent ash cleaning required (that must be how ash got its name). Cherry also splits good, and dries in one year. The pretty red color is likely the biggest reason for the high cost though. Rich folks like how it looks stacked up by their fireplaces.

I want the most BTU per cord of wood. How much it weighs does not matter because I have no constraints on how much weight I can move or store. I am limited by volume...number of cords.

This is what I found. Numbers are millions of BTU's per cord.
Ash 20
Birch 20
Beech 28
Maple 24
Red Oak 25
Poplar 16
White Pine 14

Other factors like drying time, processing effort, ease of procurement, cost, amount of ash, and rate/duration of burn are considerations. For me, maple and oak are the best choices.

One size does not fit all. What makes sense for me is not likely to be the best choice for you.

In my business, many people I sell to are cost driven. One of my competitors sells ash for $75/face cord ($225/cord). I could charge $85/FC ($255/cord) and offer better value. 14% higher price for 25% more BTUs but many people buy on price. So, I charge $225 as that is what the market price is.

My parents have about 50 acres of woods about 20 miles from our house. When I’m finally thru with the EAB ash (good riddens to it), cherry will make up the majority of the firewood that I make and burn. They also have lots of hard maple, which is similar in all characteristics except color, to the cherry. I’ll be making some of that too, but mostly just storm damage. I’m not rich by any means, but I do like the pretty red color of the cherry wood.

 

[WinterDeere]

I’ve never paid for firewood, but in my area (western NY), it’s sold by the face cord.

You might want to check your state law on that. Most states have laws against sale by face cord, as it's a unit of area, being 8 x 4 feet x whatever the hell you want. In PA, the law states you can only sell by stacked volume, such as cord or fractions of a cord (e.g. 1/2 cord)... but never "face cord".

The PA code even has one sentence stating, "there is no such thing as a face cord."

Title 70 of the Pennsylvania Code​

Wood used for fuel shall be sold by the cord of 128 cubic feet (4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet) or fraction thereof and shall be accompanied by a statement or invoice certifying the amount sold and presented to the buyer or his designee at the time of delivery or billing.

Section 2.11 of the Weights & Measures Act of 1965​

Cord: When used in connection with wood intended for fuel purposes, the amount of wood that is contained in a space of 128 cubic feet (4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet) when the wood is racked and well stowed.

Firewood may not be advertised or sold by the truck load, the pile, the piece or any other method other than by the cord or fraction thereof. There is no such thing as a face cord. An invoice must be given at the time of sale.

 

[John_Mc]

I’ve never paid for firewood, but in my area (western NY), it’s sold by the face cord. Cherry fetches top buck and sells for double what ash does. It’s worth it, in my opinion. Biggest advantage for me is less frequent ash cleaning required (that must be how ash got its name). Cherry also splits good, and dries in one year. The pretty red color is likely the biggest reason for the high cost though. Rich folks like how it looks stacked up by their fireplaces.

Interesting that Cherry fetches such a premium. I've never understood the fascination with Black Cherry as a firewood. It does split and dry relatively easily (though not as easily as Ash). However, it only has about 90% of the BTUs of White Ash. I could understand a slight premium for low-ash firewood, but double the price?

You might want to check your state law on that. Most states have laws against sale by face cord, as it's a unit of area, being 8 x 4 feet x whatever the hell you want. In PA, the law states you can only sell by stacked volume, such as cord or fractions of a cord (e.g. 1/2 cord)... but never "face cord".

If I'm not mistaken, Unlike many other states, New York State actually defines the term "Face Cord": 4ft x 8ft x 16 or 18in.

 

[wolc123]

Interesting that Cherry fetches such a premium. I've never understood the fascination with Black Cherry as a firewood. It does split and dry relatively easily (though not as easily as Ash). However, it only has about 90% of the BTUs of White Ash. I could understand a slight premium for low-ash firewood, but double the price?



If I'm not mistaken, Unlike many other states, New York State actually defines the term "Face Cord": 4ft x 8ft x 16 or 18in.

True, not many people in NY have a clue what a real cord is. To us a face cord is a cord.

 

[CalG]

True, not many people in NY have a clue what a real cord is. To us a face cord is a cord.

That's funny, does anyone care what LENGTH those face cords come?

I'm fussy, and the stove fire box is absolutely impossible to convince that 20 inches is better than 18".

I do purchase firewood in log lengths, Delivered.

 

[wolc123]

That's funny, does anyone care what LENGTH those face cords come?

I'm fussy, and the stove fire box is absolutely impossible to convince that 20 inches is better than 18".

I do purchase firewood in log lengths, Delivered.

I think 16-18” is the standard for NY sales. Not sure though as I’ve never bought or sold any. The last 5 or 6 years that I lived at home with my parents, I made all their firewood and they had a larger stove that would take 20 inchers.

Our stove now only takes 18, so I keep them under that, which took a little getting used to.

 

[WinterDeere]

If I'm not mistaken, Unlike many other states, New York State actually defines the term "Face Cord": 4ft x 8ft x 16 or 18in.

Cool. Probably works well enough for casual burners, not trying to pack maximum BTU's into each stove or furnace load.

 

[CalG]

The downstairs stove (Fischer) will take a 34". I cut at 28-30" for that. A full load is a lot of heat!

 

[WinterDeere]

The downstairs stove (Fischer) will take a 34". I cut at 28-30" for that. A full load is a lot of heat!

I try to keep all of my bucking to within ±1/2", but on larger diameter stuff, it's more often ±1" or more.

My stove works very well with 18" lengths. I can squeeze up to 20" lengths in the top row, above the firebrick, but it interferes with airflow, whereas 18" is the longest that can be loaded indiscriminately, and not mess with inlet air.

But the difference between the aforementioned 16" and 18" in my stove, is something like 3.7 vs. 4.2 cubic feet of volume. That's not trivial, when you're trying to heat a too-large home mostly with woodstoves, and trying to squeak maximum BTU's our burn time out of each load.

 

[shooterdon]

I try to keep all of my bucking to within ±1/2", but on larger diameter stuff, it's more often ±1" or more.

My stove works very well with 18" lengths. I can squeeze up to 20" lengths in the top row, above the firebrick, but it interferes with airflow, whereas 18" is the longest that can be loaded indiscriminately, and not mess with inlet air.

But the difference between the aforementioned 16" and 18" in my stove, is something like 3.7 vs. 4.2 cubic feet of volume. That's not trivial, when you're trying to heat a too-large home mostly with woodstoves, and trying to squeak maximum BTU's our burn time out of each load.

I have been told that having about 1.5" of space on each side is ideal for burning wood. Not sure if that is true.

 

[WinterDeere]

I have been told that having about 1.5" of space on each side is ideal for burning wood. Not sure if that is true.

Maybe! I guess you're talking about stoves that load with the wood sitting east-west, but then you'd be giving up 3" of total length? Might vary from one stove model to the next.

My stoves are deep, and load with the wood facing north-south. The fresh air is introduced above the front loading door, which is common on stoves with glass doors, as it helps keep the glass clean. Keeping the wood about 2" shorter than total firebox depth helps in three ways:

1. Improved air flow, more even burn.
2. Keeps the glass clean, it gets dark smudges where wood is very close.
3. Helps avoid probability of breaking the glass, when the wood is just 1 mm too long. Wood, ceramic glass, and firebrick don't have much give!

I load mine with the wood against the rear firebrick, in fact I sometimes accidentally break the rear firebricks when loading, but there's usually 1" - 2" air gap between the end of the wood and the door glass.

 

[newkiotiguy]

Dropped a tote in the garage now that winter has actually arrived

 

[groundcover]

Yep, brought over another to beat the storm.

 

[Molalla1]

Yep, brought over another to beat the storm.
View attachment 1947838

Nice DW . . .

 

[dodge man]

I split for a little over 2 hours today.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I split for a little over 2 hours today.

View attachment 1966543

Looks like perfect weather for splitting wood.

gg

 

[General Lee]

B2401 hauling some splits in the carryall

 

[General Lee]

American Beech is one of my favorites. It packs a lot of BTUs (a bit higher than Red Oak, similar to Sugar Maple, not qite as high as White Oak). It's also easy drying: second only to Ash as far as how little excess moisture it holds when freshly cut.

I second that

 

[CalG]

Looks like perfect weather for splitting wood.

gg

wood for next winter?

 

[Runner]

Back at brush removal and fence line cleanup yesterday. I have one last corner of the pasture that has been ignored for years and is now needing some fence repairs, so time to clean it up.

The area is about 80 feet each direction from the corner and mostly brush, deadwood and a few small trees (redbuds). Mission was to cut the brush and trees back 12 - 15 feet from the fence line and just back up with the tractor/chipper, blowing the chips into the wooded area as I went.

Decent day to work, close to 60 degrees, clear and light winds. Lots of nasty wild rose bushes and Bristly Greenbrier vines.

Bristly Greenbrier

Bristly greenbrier is a stout, perennial woody vine with bristlelike black spines, climbing high by tendrils to a length of 40 feet. Leaves are alternate, simple, 2–6 inches long, 2–5½ inches wide, oval, egg-shaped, heart-shaped, to broadly lance-shaped; tip blunt to pointed; margin entire but...

mdc.mo.gov

I really hate those things......

The work area is between the fence and the walnut tree in picture below.

Made my way to the corner, now looking back toward that walnut tree and the cleared area.

Looking toward the corner after clearing the east side. I later decided to remove a couple of the curvy redbuds on the right.

Looking north, along the east fence line from the corner.

Now I can get through there with my rotary cutter and maintain this area and fence line.

Still want to do some more brush thinning and cleanup in the wooded area to encourage growth of the desirable trees (walnut, oak and hickory). Will probably wind up cutting out all the trashy redbuds. But, that's work for another day....

NOTE: The author in NO WAY endorses operating tractors with ROPS in lowered position, especially when battling curvy redbuds and bristly greenbrier. Don't even THINK about doing it.