How big of a slab could I do by myself?

[scootr]

You can make as big a slab as you like. Just pour it in manageable sections of 10x10 or whatever fits modularly with your design. The cold joints will serve as expansion joints thus limiting cracking. Use rebar throughout tying all the sections together. GL

 

[paulsharvey]

So, general concrete advice.
Don't pour when you have sub 40 degree nights in the next 24 hours.
Don't dump the water too it too much.
Double and triple check everything first, But have some more stakes, nails, and a maul ready for if you have a form bow.
Expansion joint against any rigid point, such as extieor wall, posts, ect; you can caulk over the expansion later to keep ants out.
Rubber gloves aren't a necessity, but they do make it nicer.
I like wire, but this is all interior, and you may obmit if you prefer.
Clean you edger, floats, ect as you go.
Keep a 5 gal bucket of water around to sprinkle as needed while finishing
Visqeen helps keep the soil from wicking the water out of the mix,

 

[scootr]

More general advice. Don't put the steel on it too soon. Steel seals the surface reducing evaporation. I did this once in cold weather and had to finish the sidewalk in the morning. A tamp can push the gravel down making it easier to get a pretty creamy finish but this leaves a weaker top. An early bull float can knock the rock down just a little making finishing easy without compromising the top as much. Finishing is an art, a lot of the success depends upon timing. It's important to get all the mud down in a timely manner ideally at the same time, so your not trying to float old mud and new mud at opposite ends of the pour. So size your sections accordingly.

 

[paulsharvey]

Specific advise to ordering a redimix truck, if you go that route.
Once the forms are screeded, keep a half wheel barrow of mix, until you bull float and edge
Don't let them try to dump an extra yard or whatever, Yes, you have to let them clean the shoot, but they can take the left over mix back and dump it at the plant
You tell them what mix you want; so if you want 3000 psi, 5 inch slump, and no fiber, tell them that, don't leave it up to them.
Concrete trucks are Heavy, and they can crush driveways, culverts, septic tanks, or sink into what appears to be firm ground.
Don't be afraid to tell the driver where to drive, don't ever leave that upto the driver...
If the mix looks too stiff, you can add a gallon per CY with very little affect on final compression strength, But you go adding 2, 3, or 4 gal per CY, and you Are weakening the mix. So, if you Want 8" slump, order 8" slump, don't order 5, and dump water to it.

 

[MossRoad]

I set up some forms for 2'x2' 2x4s and use any excess to make stepping stones. I have a pile of them in the woods. They come in handy for things like corners in a fenced yard where the dog would stand and bark. Keeps his feet dry and the corner doesn't get muddied up. Good for footings for yard art. Bird bath, etc...

 

[DJ54]

I bought this little 3 pt. PTO hyd. dump mixer that was well used around 30 years ago. I can't tell you how many little jobs I've done with it, but it has paid for itself many times over.

I was taught many years ago using the 1-2-3 method for a 5 bag mix per yd. On larger slabs I make it a little wetter than normal to allow time to finish it. But I also add 1-1-1/2 extra shovels full of cement to make up for it probably pushing it up to around an 8 bag mix.

The last sizeable pour was in my machinery shed where on one end I poured an 8' X 36' slab to build a storage room for spare parts (you can see it in the background) space to set 3, 275 gal. fuel oil tanks to store used motor oil for my waste oil furnace for the shop, and lastly a coal/wood storage bin for a wood/coal stove also in the shop.

I poured these in 8' X 12' sections. I drove 16d nails in the band board at the level of the top of concrete, put a level on a straight 10' 2X4 to set the top of the outside form, staked & nailed in place.

In the end section form I drilled 3/4" holes every 2' and put 5/8" rebar in through holes leaving them stick out about 6" to tie the slabs together.

I'd bought a cheapie concrete vibrator from Harbor Freight a few years before that for another job pouring new walls and top for my well pit. For the money it does a great job and helps to get air bubbles out along the form edge. Most was pushed pulled around in place with a heavy-duty lawn rake. A little up and down tamping with the rake action to move/level concrete a bit. Rough screeded with a 2x6 w/handles cut in it like the concrete guys use, then ran my bull float on it. Let it set for a while, then ran a magnesium float on it, then a bit later finished with a steel trowel, then ran the edger. That was enough work in a day at my age and not completely wear myself out knowing I had 2 more of the same to do in a week.

Next day, pull the end form, put in the next section of side form and start to pour again. A lot of work for one person but doable.

That pour was 8 years ago this Summer, and to date no cracks. Oil tanks are right at the 275 gal. capacity, so right at 6,000 lbs. setting on a 8'X12' section. There's approx.10 tons of Industrial coal in the bin, plus some firewood since I added a removeable end using 12" planks. I did put a 2% slope on that part so water would drain out if we'd get a heavy rain from the East. Showing no cracking makes me feel pretty good about that job.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Do you have your heart set on concrete? If all you want is a fairly smooth stable floor, you could do what my FIL did.

He had a 20' x 30' steel building on a fairly remote section of the farm. It was accessible only by tractor and used to store implements. It had a level stone floor but he wanted something smoother. Costs estimates to do concrete were very high due to the location, so he used this product instead.

AgTec Heavy Duty Truck and Parking Pavers - Recycled Plastic Turf Stone, 60 Tonne Capacity, Grass or Stone Fill, 20 Year Warranty

These heavy duty grid pavers are the ideal subsitute for cement pavers. Ideal for adding weight bearing capacity to driveways and parking areas.

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He brought in sand with the FEL, used it to choke off the stone and raked it level. He then brought in the pavers, laid them out and filled them with stone dust. He soaked the surface with water and it dried hard and fairly smooth.

That was 5 years ago and the surface has held up well under heavy equipment. It cost significantly less than concrete and he was able to do the job himself in 4 days.

I like the look of it but wouldn't consider it for a finished garage. For an out building though, IMO, it's an acceptable alternative to concrete.

 

[Runner]

I set up some forms for 2'x2' 2x4s and use any excess to make stepping stones. I have a pile of them in the woods. They come in handy for things like corners in a fenced yard where the dog would stand and bark. Keeps his feet dry and the corner doesn't get muddied up. Good for footings for yard art. Bird bath, etc...

I made mine 18"x24", 4" thick and use them for weights on a lawn roller.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Do you have your heart set on concrete? If all you want is a fairly smooth stable floor, you could do what my FIL did.

He had a 20' x 30' steel building on a fairly remote section of the farm. It was accessible only by tractor and used to store implements. It had a level stone floor but he wanted something smoother. Costs estimates to do concrete were very high due to the location, so he used this product instead.

View attachment 1884256

AgTec Heavy Duty Truck and Parking Pavers - Recycled Plastic Turf Stone, 60 Tonne Capacity, Grass or Stone Fill, 20 Year Warranty

These heavy duty grid pavers are the ideal subsitute for cement pavers. Ideal for adding weight bearing capacity to driveways and parking areas.

www.agtec.com

He brought in sand with the FEL, used it to choke off the stone and raked it level. He then brought in the pavers, laid them out and filled them with stone dust. He soaked the surface with water and it dried hard and fairly smooth.

That was 5 years ago and the surface has held up well under heavy equipment. It cost significantly less than concrete and he was able to do the job himself in 4 days.

I like the look of it but wouldn't consider it for a finished garage. For an out building though, IMO, it's an acceptable alternative to concrete.

I like the idea of doing pavers, I could see that being easier.

But my biggest objection to the gravel floor that's in there now is that it's not good for working on the tractor. If I drop things they get lost, and crawling around under the tractor is uncomfortable. If I spill something I can't wipe it up. It doesn't seem that pavers would address any of those complaints.

 

[gstrom99]

I'd go with a Redi-Mix truck and rent one of these Powered Wheel Barrows to transport to your site.

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[dieselscout80]

Do you have your heart set on concrete? If all you want is a fairly smooth stable floor, you could do what my FIL did.

He had a 20' x 30' steel building on a fairly remote section of the farm. It was accessible only by tractor and used to store implements. It had a level stone floor but he wanted something smoother. Costs estimates to do concrete were very high due to the location, so he used this product instead.

View attachment 1884256

AgTec Heavy Duty Truck and Parking Pavers - Recycled Plastic Turf Stone, 60 Tonne Capacity, Grass or Stone Fill, 20 Year Warranty

These heavy duty grid pavers are the ideal subsitute for cement pavers. Ideal for adding weight bearing capacity to driveways and parking areas.

www.agtec.com

He brought in sand with the FEL, used it to choke off the stone and raked it level. He then brought in the pavers, laid them out and filled them with stone dust. He soaked the surface with water and it dried hard and fairly smooth.

That was 5 years ago and the surface has held up well under heavy equipment. It cost significantly less than concrete and he was able to do the job himself in 4 days.

I like the look of it but wouldn't consider it for a finished garage. For an out building though, IMO, it's an acceptable alternative to concrete.

Looks interesting.

I wonder how much they cost?

 

[MossRoad]

I like the idea of doing pavers, I could see that being easier.

But my biggest objection to the gravel floor that's in there now is that it's not good for working on the tractor. If I drop things they get lost, and crawling around under the tractor is uncomfortable. If I spill something I can't wipe it up. It doesn't seem that pavers would address any of those complaints.

Large cardboard boxes split open do wonders for laying on in stones or cold concrete. Seems with our kids moving so often between colleges, apartments, etc, we always have plenty folded flat in the garage rafters. I use them fairly often. If they get oil soaked, I throw them out. Otherwise, fold em up and back in the pile they go.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I like the idea of doing pavers, I could see that being easier.

But my biggest objection to the gravel floor that's in there now is that it's not good for working on the tractor. If I drop things they get lost, and crawling around under the tractor is uncomfortable. If I spill something I can't wipe it up. It doesn't seem that pavers would address any of those complaints.

When my kids remodeled their home I asked them for all the old carpet. The floor installer cut it up into approx 4'x6' pieces and I have them stashed all over the place. They are quite handy to lay on snow or gravel etc. If they get dirty throw them away and if they get wet just dry them out. I regularly use them on my cement floor as they keep my clothes a lot cleaner and keep me warmer. The carpet also gives you a lot more room under a vehicle than a creeper does.

Edited to add: Oh ya and if you drop something it doesn't bounce or roll anywhere.

 

[paulsharvey]

Concrete is the way to go for a garage-shop kinda floor. No worry about the jack settling into the gravel, no rocks in you butt crack, easier to find that little pin you drop, and when we look at what our OP is proposing, only about $500. Paver can look good, but they don't work well with a floor jack, cost as much (or more), and don't really offer an upside, other than maybe the ability to do a few and then do some more the next weekend.

If our OP wants to, he can divide his pour into as many as 3 or 4 pours, and not kill himself.

 

[newbury]

when we look at what our OP is proposing, only about $500.

I saw the OP proposing about a 100+ bag (80lb) pour (mix it himself and he doesn't have a mixer), or perhaps the same amount ready mix.
My pricing at HD is ~$5.50 a bag plus tax.
Are prices in Coastal Rhode Island that much cheaper?

 

[paulsharvey]

I saw the OP proposing about a 100+ bag (80lb) pour (mix it himself and he doesn't have a mixer), or perhaps the same amount ready mix.
My pricing at HD is ~$5.50 a bag plus tax.
Are prices in Coastal Rhode Island that much cheaper?

I stand corrected, 2.5 Cy= $621.60 at Home Depot, using 60# bags of Quikcrete brand. We might get cost down to $600 if we use 80s

 

[paulsharvey]

OP is unique in that Rhode Island is so small, any company there is close.

Concrete Quick LLC, advertises 0.5 to 4 cy delivery, no load minium. It's atleast worth calling to get a price

I would ask for price of 2.5 CY, 3000 PSI, 5" slump, with delivery. Than you have a base line price to compare pallet mix, and the work/time involved

 

[EddieWalker]

I've done quite a bit of concrete work by myself. I'm not the best at finishing it, but it's one of those things that I can live with "good enough" it's smooth enough to sweep, but nowhere near as nice as what the pros can do.

For bigger jobs, I always hire a crew. The biggest that I've done by myself in one day was 12x12 with footings and a bit of a slop that made part of it thicker then other parts. I had three pallets, and used around 2 1/2 of them. I only buy 60 pound sacks. They get really heavy once you get started.

The wider the pad, the harder it will be to get it flat and smooth. For your pad, I would do it in thirds. Nothing is easier then walkways.

Set your mixer right next to the forms, and have your pallet of concrete as close to the mixer as you can get it. Mix, dump, add concrete and water to the mixer, pull the concrete to the farthest part of the pad, and repeat. Once you get enough concrete to screed it, start working on that every time you pull concrete there.

Do not try to get it all poured and then work it. Work on leveling it off with your screed board as soon as you have enough material to do so!!!

This is an easy DIY project if you are in decent shape, and you understand that once you start, you cannot stop until it's done. The last pad that I did was 10x30. I did it in three sections that where 10x10. That's about the biggest I like to go by myself. Each section took about half a day, and I did it in Summer, so finishing before it got too hot out was also a factor.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

The wider the pad, the harder it will be to get it flat and smooth. For your pad, I would do it in thirds. Nothing is easier then walkways.

So the slab is 12x17, the door is in the 12' end. So would you recommend three pours of 4x17 or three pours of 12x 5'+?

If it doesn't matter, it seems to me the 4x17 would be easier, I can roll the mixer between them the whole way. Do the two sides and let them harden and then roll the mixer in on one of the sides to do the middle. It also would mean I never have to drive over the joints.

 

[dodge man]

I picture three pours the 12’x5+. That might also eliminate need more joint or maybe there needs to be one joint in the middle of the 12’.