Driveway help

   / Driveway help #31  
It appears that the road bed is lower than the surrounding ground. This will be difficult or impossible to keep shaped up because all of the drainage is into the road. The only real solution is to bring in more gravel to elevate and crown the road bed.
Picture 1 and 3, both appear to me, that you could cut a weep hole to the outside, and add material. It's always hard to get perspective though pictures though.
 
   / Driveway help #32  
It appears that the road bed is lower than the surrounding ground. This will be difficult or impossible to keep shaped up because all of the drainage is into the road. The only real solution is to bring in more gravel to elevate and crown the road bed.
If that is the case, elevating the road is not doing anything but being a temporary solution. You need to be looking at stripping, adding fabric and pit run, then putting road base back on.
 
   / Driveway help #33  
If that is the case, elevating the road is not doing anything but being a temporary solution. You need to be looking at stripping, adding fabric and pit run, then putting road base back on.
Actually we have elevated the road with just rock on many forest roads and these roads have held up for years. Fabric isn’t cost effective when you’re doing miles or thousands of feet of roads. Elevating and crowning the road is the key. Water will drain off the road.
 
   / Driveway help #34  
It is Far cheaper to cut a minor swale about 4 ft from the edge of the driving surface, ideally with an invert at or below the bottom of our base (so if we have 8" of base/rock, we want our swale atleast 8" deep), and then cut something like a 6-10% slope on our grassed shoulder. We can probably do that with our box blade, loader, whatever. If the ground adjacent to the roadbed, say, 6 ft away, is lower, than we can grade the shoulders to slope away without the swale.

A typical cross section on a paved road, is 2% cross from the center to the EOP, 6% from the EOP out about 4 ft; and if there is a ditch or swale; after our shoukder, we slope down at a 4:1 to the swale invert. Gravel/stabalized drives, might benefit from a bit more cross slope, like 3-6% from the crown out, but we also don't want to build velocity and wash our fines away.
 
   / Driveway help
  • Thread Starter
#35  
If that is the case, elevating the road is not doing anything but being a temporary solution. You need to be looking at stripping, adding fabric and pit run, then putting road base back on.
I had a quote for that and it was $80,000
I can add some stone every year and just deal with it
 
   / Driveway help #36  
I had a quote for that and it was $80,000
I can add some stone every year and just deal with it
I would get a belly dump or two of rock spread along the road. Then use the rear blade on your tractor to shape it into a crown. That’s what I did. After a few loads, the road was elevated. Now it stays in good shape with just a few gradings each year. I do try to plow the snow so it doesn’t melt into the road bed. This shouldn’t cost more than $1500 or $2000 at the most.
 
   / Driveway help #37  
I had a quote for that and it was $80,000
I can add some stone every year and just deal with it
Wow, and honestly, your driveway not only looks better than my current drive, but also every drive I have ever lived at...
 

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