No water after planned power outage

[jfsawatzky]

I am not certain what to make of the current symptoms I am having so I’d like to ask for your experiences and thoughts.
Circuit breaker is on and when I flip the pressure switch the gauge jumps to 20 on the spot then immediately returns to 0. Does that indicate anything to anyone?
To me, that seems to indicate there’s power and everything is trying to work but something is failing.
At the moment my first thought is to replace the pressure switch to eliminate that since it’s cheap and easy to replace.
Next would be to replace either the pressure tank or pump controller.
If it was the pressure tank, how can you test to determine that’s the problem? Would a bad pressure tank have the symptoms described?
One other thought…on one recent house check I recall the pressure gauge was near 20 but cannot compare that to other checks since I don’t recall the reading and it may or may not indicate a problem.
Given this scenario, what are the potential issues?

 

[LouNY]

If your pressure switch is the type with a low pressure cut out,
you need to feel for a sweet spot while moving the lever to get it to start, when the pump starts hold the switch so it runs till your tank builds some pressure 30-40 pounds then release the lever and the pressure switch should take over.

 

[LHF2019]

I am not certain what to make of the current symptoms I am having so I’d like to ask for your experiences and thoughts.
Circuit breaker is on and when I flip the pressure switch the gauge jumps to 20 on the spot then immediately returns to 0. Does that indicate anything to anyone?
To me, that seems to indicate there’s power and everything is trying to work but something is failing.
At the moment my first thought is to replace the pressure switch to eliminate that since it’s cheap and easy to replace.
Next would be to replace either the pressure tank or pump controller.
If it was the pressure tank, how can you test to determine that’s the problem? Would a bad pressure tank have the symptoms described?
One other thought…on one recent house check I recall the pressure gauge was near 20 but cannot compare that to other checks since I don’t recall the reading and it may or may not indicate a problem.
Given this scenario, what are the potential issues?

If your pressure switch is the type with a low pressure cut out,
you need to feel for a sweet spot while moving the lever to get it to start, when the pump starts hold the switch so it runs till your tank builds some pressure 30-40 pounds then release the lever and the pressure switch should take over.

This

Didn't think I could be of assistance but soon as I read lou's post reminded me of our milkhouse. Every time electric went out you had to go to the barn and turn water back on. Hold switch until primed as stated above. Something changed while I was gone and no longer have to do it.

 

[LouNY]

This

Didn't think I could be of assistance but soon as I read lou's post reminded me of our milkhouse. Every time electric went out you had to go to the barn and turn water back on. Hold switch until primed as stated above. Something changed while I was gone and no longer have to do it.

They likely changed the pressure switch out;
this type has the low cut out,

 

[jfsawatzky]

If your pressure switch is the type with a low pressure cut out,
you need to feel for a sweet spot while moving the lever to get it to start, when the pump starts hold the switch so it runs till your tank builds some pressure 30-40 pounds then release the lever and the pressure switch should take over.

Success. Thank you all.
In the past never had to hold the switch part way it was just flip it one way or the other.

 

[ponytug]

Success. Thank you all.
In the past never had to hold the switch part way it was just flip it one way or the other.

Congratulations!

FWIW: The low pressure cutout is to keep the pump from burning out if there isn't water for some reason.

Aren't the folks here great?

All the best,

Peter

 

[jfsawatzky]

Update: the original issue is resolved when I can hold the switch to build pressure but the switch and tank are not maintaining pressure as water is used….so I plan to replace the switch to see if that resolves my issue. At least there is some water when needed even if a large volume cannot be used all at once… and I still have several gallons potable water from the weekend.

 

[LouNY]

Update: the original issue is resolved when I can hold the switch to build pressure but the switch and tank are not maintaining pressure as water is used….so I plan to replace the switch to see if that resolves my issue. At least there is some water when needed even if a large volume cannot be used all at once… and I still have several gallons potable water from the weekend.

I don't believe the switch will resolve your problem.
If you don't have a leak or usage after your tank and switch, there is a possibility of a leak between the pump and pressure tank, if no leaks then it's likely a bad check valve. Often located at the pump. If you have isolation valves before and after the pressure tank you can see which side of the system it is leaking down from.
I have seen switches go bad from buildt up minerals in the water plugging the switch orifice though.

 

[jfsawatzky]

Yes I have a running toilet but under normal circumstances shouldn’t the pressure switch detect the low pressure and repressurize the system as needed?
I know my brother replaced the pressure gauge several years ago due to corrosion from incompatible metal… I don’t know if the pressure switch was changed at the same time. I’m trying to confirm if the switch was replaced.
There is just one isolation valve to shut off the supply to the house.
Should have also mentioned, lots of minerals in the water.

 

[LouNY]

Yes I have a running toilet but under normal circumstances shouldn’t the pressure switch detect the low pressure and repressurize the system as needed?
I know my brother replaced the pressure gauge several years ago due to corrosion from incompatible metal… I don’t know if the pressure switch was changed at the same time. I’m trying to confirm if the switch was replaced.
There is just one isolation valve to shut off the supply to the house.
Should have also mentioned, lots of minerals in the water.

Yes it should, when the system is working properly the little arm on the switch should flop down after pressure is achieved and the switch should then function normally. If it is not kicking back in then it could be bad, often they will get crudded up in the small port that allows the water in to sense the pressure.