Not stuck 165D hydraulic issues

rScotty · Sep 11, 2024

millard762 said:
It really isn't a fix, as there is still an issue. But, when I lower the bucket and it sticks and I let it go all the way down until it stops or lifts the front end, I have to tap on the lever with a hammer to get it unstuck. However, if I lower bucket and if I pull back on lever rapidly, it will not stick, but I can feel where it catches. If this all makes sense

Sounds to me like some dirt, corrosion, and rust got into the detent extension for the float position on lever 1. It's a common problem, but usually addressed before it corrodes as much as it sounds like yours has. I'd do what LouNY said above (#14). There is an extension on the LH valve spool. Taking that cover cap off off will give you access to the extended projection that is the detent mechanism for that valve spool - basically a spring and some detent balls. Clean it up and reassemble. Be reasonably careful, if I remember right, that extention can was aluminum on some.

It does happen that sometimes old loader control valve detents are too corroded to work. You can put the cap back on without the innards, or maybe it is time to consider that entire loader control valve assembly can be replaced with a universal bolt-up replacement for a reasonable price. If so, a person can cut the price of the replacement valve in half by getting a valve assembly that doesn't include the optional detent for float position.

Based on our own YM165D with that same loader and valve, my opinion is that the tractor is too light to make the detented float position effective anyway. Where a heavier tractor might use float when working, the little 165 does smoother work if the operator continuously adjusts the control lever.
Luck,
rScotty

millard762 · Sep 11, 2024

So how do I get that cover cap off? I tried rotating it to no avail or is there some other way it comes off?

rScotty · Sep 11, 2024

It's not too hard to get the cover cap off. It isn't as fragile appearing as some.

Look at the picture below. Here the first thing we see is the we see the IN port from the crankshaft driven front hydraulic pump (a Cessna, no longer made).

We are talking about the long cover next to it with a tubular section almost an inch in diameter and about two inches long overall.

The cap is simply screwed on using standard US course parallel threads, so it removes by turning it CCW as viewed from the far end. I've attempted to show that with an arrow.

The cap appears to be solidly constructed, which is good since we are going to have to abuse it a bit andsqueeze it to remove it.

BUT FIRST, give yourself some room to work....room to grab that cover. I suggest that you should take off the hose and at least the first hreaded adapter that go into the IN port. Here's how:

The hose connector and the threaded adapter are both 7/8" open end wrench size. You will need two 7/8" open end wrenches and one thin end 11/16" open end wrench to undo the hose and adapter properly.

Starting closest to the hose, use one 7/8" wrench to turn the hose fitting, and the other 7/8" wrench to back up the threaded adapte so that it does not turn.
Do the same all the way down to the final threaded adapter (11/16" wrench size). y
You may be able to leave that final one in the casting and have room to grab the cap.

Unfortunately, the cap has no flats to use a wrench. If you have a really good set of channel lock "water pump pliers" you may be able to turn it - but if you mess up that cap, it is a couple hundred bucks shot or no detent/float...and it will always leak. So any thing that messes up the cap is a last resort.

A better way might be to fold over a piece of 80/100 grit fabric-backed sandpaper cut from belt sander belt, abrasive side out on both the cap side and the side where you are going to be tightening it onto the cap under two or three of those worm drive hose clamps. That gives something to grab onto. Now proceed with a bit more confidence....

Or get creative about grabbing the cap. Maybe someone here has a better idea. But accessing the detent spring and balls under that cap is where I would look to fix the bucket lowering problem you have described.

If not, it is time for a new AICO type control valve.

Luck,
rScotty

LouNY · Sep 11, 2024

I would start soaking it in penetrating oil and gently tapping on it, then try working it with channel locks.
This is time when the old cannon plug pliers would be handy, soft jaw pliers;

One other possibility would be a small hole drilled into the bottom side and the dirt and crud washed out then a good spray lube and a hose clamp.

rScotty · Sep 11, 2024

LouNY said:
I would start soaking it in penetrating oil and gently tapping on it, then try working it with channel locks.
This is time when the old cannon plug pliers would be handy, soft jaw pliers;
View attachment 1088022

One other possibility would be a small hole drilled into the bottom side and the dirt and crud washed out then a good spray lube and a hose clamp.

Hello Lou,
That detent cap is better than most. Below is a photo. The main body of the cap looks to be a tube of .050" plated steel, and fairly strong. Also, there is also a substantial steel plug in the end (& I think I can see a drip hole in the center) ...anyway, a little testing with a magnet makes me believe that plug extends into the body of the cap a half an inch or so....

I wouldn't be afraid to grab around that end with a set of good sharp vintage Channel Lock type "Water Pump" pliers. But they would have to be good pliers. Worth a careful try.

And there just is not enough room for a good grip with the IN port hose in the way.
That's why I posted at such length in #23 on how to remove the port hoses - those connections are probably corroded & difficult as well
rScotty