More info needed. Did you check the wiring between pressure light and sender? A bad connection will also cause that to happen.Workmaster 33 Oil pressure light comes on at idle but goes of with increase rpm. New oil and oil filter. Any thoughts would be welcome
It’s old. Probably lots of wear Would be expensive to fix. Would it be out of the question to keep it idled high? I’m sorry but I don’t know an easy fix. Maybe others will have better suggestions. I’ve had old cars in the past do that till I traded them off.Workmaster 33 Oil pressure light comes on at idle but goes of with increase rpm. New oil and oil filter. Any thoughts would be welcome
I haven’t check the sensor, that is next and I’m probably going to get a pressure gauge and check as well. I’m not a mechanic so first time troubleshooting for this weekend warriorMore info needed. Did you check the wiring between pressure light and sender? A bad connection will also cause that to happen.
Did you change to a different oil? Some of the new 0-30w synthetics are noticibly less viscous when cold. And is it an OEM or aftermarket filter? Are you willing to change both again?
Is this something that is definitely related to the oil & filter change or have you seen the light flicker before? Any other changes?
The problem with lights vs gauges is we always end up needing a dial gauge reading to know if the pressure light is faulty. It's common for mechanics just replace the pressure sender because it is cheap and most have no way to test it.
rScotty
Updating my answer in #2 a week ago....Replace the 'idiot light' with an analog gage. Idiot lights are just what they say... for idiots.
Unit is old and clearance are probably excessive so change to a heavier viscosity oil...
Also after I changed the oil was when the light would stay off if I idled a little higherUpdating my answer in #2 a week ago....
Did you check the wiring between pressure light and sender? A bad connection will also cause that to happen. Just trace the wire and tighten any connections. Sometimes just wiggling the connection will fix tha problem.
Did you change to a different oil? Some of the new 0-30w synthetics are noticibly less viscous when cold. Change the oil to something like a 15w-40 Rotella - that's the old standby for diesel engines. And does the engine have an OEM or aftermarket filter? Are you willing to change both filter and oil again?
Question....Is this something that is definitely related to the oil & filter change or have you seen the light flicker before you changed oil/filter? Have you tried just setting the idle a little higher? That is commonly done as engines get older.
The problem with lights vs the old style analog dashboard gauges is we always end up needing the numbers available on an old style gauge reading to know if the pressure light is faulty. And to know if there is a problem or if it is just a case of low idle or lower pressure due to normal wear. If the oil is flowing well, an engine doesn't need much pressure. Most of the internal pressure it needs is generated by the movement of the inner parts and does not show on a gauge.
Finally, those idiot lights often suffer from bad senders. It's common for mechanics just replace the pressure sender because it is cheap and quick to replace - and most have no way to test it anyway.
updated from a week ago,
rScotty
Probably it is just that the idle was set borderline too low anyway, and new oil with lighter viscosity caused a false low pressure alarm. Cure is raise the idle.Chances are that the main bearings are worn enough that it bleeds oil pressure at idle below the 5 or 10 psi threshold of the switch for the light, as you've found upping the idle a bit gives enough psi boost to keep it off. Going to a thicker oil would help, but depending on climate could cause winter issues with starting hard. Replacing the main bearings is an option, but not typically a first timer project.
Rscotty before the oil change it was most likely some low on the dip stick. He filled it with new non diluted oil and it helped. I’ve got a 600 ford with an oil gauge, when it gets a quart low the gauge is up and down. That how I know to check oil in it. Just old 70 year old equipment for youProbably it is just that the idle was set borderline too low anyway, and new oil with lighter viscosity caused a false low pressure alarm. Cure is raise the idle.
Main bearing wear is rare even in much older motors.
That is entirely dependent on how the tractor was maintained and if the oil was changed in a timely manner. Oil clearance with insert bearings is entirely dependent on regular changes with quality oil more than anything else and good filtration as well. Using cheap motor oil and extending change intervals and / or not changing the oil filters in a timely manner can cause insert bearings to wear and oil clearance to become excessive and that results in low oil pressure and idiot lights to illuminate.Probably it is just that the idle was set borderline too low anyway, and new oil with lighter viscosity caused a false low pressure alarm. Cure is raise the idle.
Main bearing wear is rare even in much older motors.
Well is sounds like a definite restriction! I didn’t even know it had one. Sir good luckOk, not the sensor that we can tell, however we think the oil cooler is clogged, going to replace. Seems very weird though to me but I’m not a mechanic but my brother in law is and we are thinking that is what it could be.
I want to confirm first—are you using the recommended oil viscosity? If the oil is too thin, it might not maintain enough pressure at low RPMs. If the viscosity is right, you may check out the sensor, oil pump, or possibly wear in the engine bearings. Replacing one of those might fix the issue.Workmaster 33 Oil pressure light comes on at idle but goes of with increase rpm. New oil and oil filter. Any thoughts would be welcome