New 2024 Cub Cadet Ultima ZTXS5 54

[Runner]

Are you sure that you are not overloading the trailer ? !

I've only got two choices and the other one is too small. Sure would like to have something like a landscape trailer, but just don't really have the need. The only reason this mower would go on the trailer would be if it breaks, so hopefully won't need it.

 

[Runner]

5th mowing update: FINALLY got through one mowing session without bouncing off the seat and activating the PTO disconnect. I think this is a result of being more "in tune" with the machine, bracing myself for the rough spots and becoming more familiar with where the "problem areas" are in the yard.

Machine is still running great and delivering a beautiful cut. Hour meter now showing 10.3 hours with no issues thus far.

 

[Runner]

Since my dealer refuses to give me the mower chute stop bracket that I paid for, I went ahead and made my own. It just bolts into the existing lug on the mower deck that is normally used for attaching the bagger boot. Still need to paint and give it a shakedown run, but looks like it should do the trick.

 

[Runner]

Final product on mower chute stop bracket. Added paint and rubber/felt pads where it touches the chute surfaces.

 

[Runner]

Just sharpened the blades for the first time. My thoughts:

First, I wonder what gorilla put the blades on? Book says 70 to 90 lbs torque. Had to double check the manual to see if maybe the nuts were left hand threads (they are not). Felt more like 190 lbs. I had to use two 24" breaker bars to get the blade nuts off.

Second, I have to agree with other posters on TBN who noted that the Cub Cadet stock blades seem to be rather soft. I am very careful to avoid sticks, rocks, etc., but still quite a few nicks and the blades overall pretty dull after 18 hours.

Reinstalled with 75 lbs torque so should be a little easier next time. Hoping to find some aftermarket blades to try when replacement time comes.

I was quite surprised at how clean the underside of the deck was after 18 hours without cleaning.

I really like the "quick release" spindle guards, just spin off two plastic handles on each side and they come off (no tools). No spindle guard on the center spindle is good for cleaning and maintenance.

After servicing the blades, I installed a cheater knob on the steering wheel. Plan on mowing tomorrow to try that out.

 

[drumminj]

Interesting you've already sharpened the blades. I haven't even looked into how difficult it is to get to/remove them (I assume that's in the manual somewhere?)

I'd like to get Oregon Gator blades as replacements but they don't seem to list a compatible blade. Did you happen to note/notice the size of the center hole for the blades? I assume one can buy based off that (and obviously blade length based on cutting deck size. 19" for the 54" deck)

 

[Runner]

Interesting you've already sharpened the blades. I haven't even looked into how difficult it is to get to/remove them (I assume that's in the manual somewhere?)

I'd like to get Oregon Gator blades as replacements but they don't seem to list a compatible blade. Did you happen to note/notice the size of the center hole for the blades? I assume one can buy based off that (and obviously blade length based on cutting deck size. 19" for the 54" deck)

The manual says to remove the deck to get to the blades, which is silly. I have one of those ZTR jacks from Harbor Freight that raises the machine from the front wheels. Works fine.

The blade nuts are 15/16" and they ARE regular right handed threads.

My blades measured 18 5/8" long and the center hole is 3/4".

I was looking on Amazon for replacement blades and so far, no luck finding anything that is listed as a replacement for the CC part number. I'm sure there must be something aftermarket out there that will work.

 

[RjCorazza]

That blade should be easy enough to match up. Oregon used to have a pdf of their blades by manufacturer, or blade length / home size. It was several years ago that I looked at it, so sorry no link.

 

[Sonny580]

all cc blades are junk!! Soft as butter! my z-force 48 wont mow the yard one time without having to stop and grind blades again.
Also the b&s intek 22 motor on the z's are junk! Blew the heads on mine and after research this is common thing on MOST new motors no matter what brand! Mine has 550 hours on it. Valve guides come loose and breaks the push rods in them. With all the trouble I have with this one I think its time to dig a hole and bury it!!

 

[Runner]

Sonny, sorry to hear about the Intek on your unit. I am nursing along a 16 hp Intek on an old Sabre lawn tractor myself. The thing is still hanging in there though.....

I think I agree on the blades. After 1 mowing on the freshly-sharpened blades, they are already looking dull again. The thing has such high blade speed (compared to my old rear finish mower) that it still does a decent job, but I would like to find some good aftermarket blades.

Still looking, but no luck yet. Everything I'm finding is either too long or center hole is too small...

Fall is coming and I'm looking forward to seeing how the bagger does on leaf pickup. This is going to be lots faster than picking up 2 acres of leaves with the old JD185 with 38 inch deck.

 

[Runner]

About 21 hours on the new machine now.

Started investigating the oversensitive seat switch issue. What I found is that the seat position switch (which shuts of the PTO if you bounce off the seat, or shuts off the engine if you try to get off without setting the parking brake) is a very squirrelly design. Instead of plugging into a receptacle on the bottom of the seat, like some other Cub products, this switch is attached from the top side to a piece of fabric stretched across the seat frame. Presumably, this is to prevent tampering. It appears the only way to service it is to remove the seat and take the seat apart.

You can get to the front and rear sides of the fabric piece, and it has a certain amount of stretch, so I decided to try to slide something in between the bottom of the seat cushion and switch. My first attempt is a fairly thick piece of cardboard. The thought was that this would take up some of the space between the switch and bottom of the seat, and maybe that would make it less sensitive to slight bouncing that takes place when going over bumps.

I did a brief test ride and tried to bounce a little, but couldn't really tell much difference. So I will leave it for now and see how it acts during the next mowing session. If it doesn't work, I'll try adding a little more cardboard.

If I can't get this to work, I may have to resort to just bypassing the switch. I don't want to do that, because I think it's a good feature, just too sensitive. Perfect example of unintended consequences. Manufacturer thinks they are promoting safety by installing an oversensitive seat switch, but the end result is people have to bypass it to make the equipment usable....

 

[Richard001]

Wow, five wires to a safety switch. It's a lot more than on/off.

 

[Runner]

Wow, five wires to a safety switch. It's a lot more than on/off.

Tons of YouTubes on how to bypass. Hope it doesn't come to that.

 

[drumminj]

The

Tons of YouTubes on how to bypass. Hope it doesn't come to that.

The bypass for these switches is to stick toothpicks in a few of the pins, if I remember correctly (not as easy as some of the others).

The bottom of your seat looks different than mine though. I don't have that fabric, but it is a similar setup where the safety switch is installed from above rather than below. I'll take a photo and come back and edit this post later this afternoon.

Regarding the seat safety, I mowed the entire yard yesterday (front, side and back...usually I do them at different times) and didn't trigger the PTO cutoff once. I have a theory -- pressure on the bottom of the plastic switch (pushing it into the seat a bit) helps keep the switch depressed. I believe it is making contact with the springs on the suspension insert in my setup, thus making it a bit less sensitive.

Not sure how to test/verify that though....

 

[drumminj]

The

The bypass for these switches is to stick toothpicks in a few of the pins, if I remember correctly (not as easy as some of the others).

The bottom of your seat looks different than mine though. I don't have that fabric, but it is a similar setup where the safety switch is installed from above rather than below. I'll take a photo and come back and edit this post later this afternoon.

Regarding the seat safety, I mowed the entire yard yesterday (front, side and back...usually I do them at different times) and didn't trigger the PTO cutoff once. I have a theory -- pressure on the bottom of the plastic switch (pushing it into the seat a bit) helps keep the switch depressed. I believe it is making contact with the springs on the suspension insert in my setup, thus making it a bit less sensitive.

Not sure how to test/verify that though....

Sorry I haven't updated my post -- I can't get a good photo without taking the seat off the mower and just am not motivated to do that

The bottom of my seat is a hard material though, not fabric. And the sensor is clipped into it from above (vs riveted). Don't think that really changes anything, just the difference between the 20" and 24" seat.

 

[Runner]

Sorry I haven't updated my post -- I can't get a good photo without taking the seat off the mower and just am not motivated to do that

The bottom of my seat is a hard material though, not fabric. And the sensor is clipped into it from above (vs riveted). Don't think that really changes anything, just the difference between the 20" and 24" seat.

It looks like you would have to disassemble the seat, to some extent, if you ever need to replace that switch. Not great.

 

[Runner]

About 21 hours on the new machine now.

Started investigating the oversensitive seat switch issue. What I found is that the seat position switch (which shuts of the PTO if you bounce off the seat, or shuts off the engine if you try to get off without setting the parking brake) is a very squirrelly design. Instead of plugging into a receptacle on the bottom of the seat, like some other Cub products, this switch is attached from the top side to a piece of fabric stretched across the seat frame. Presumably, this is to prevent tampering. It appears the only way to service it is to remove the seat and take the seat apart.

You can get to the front and rear sides of the fabric piece, and it has a certain amount of stretch, so I decided to try to slide something in between the bottom of the seat cushion and switch. My first attempt is a fairly thick piece of cardboard. The thought was that this would take up some of the space between the switch and bottom of the seat, and maybe that would make it less sensitive to slight bouncing that takes place when going over bumps.

I did a brief test ride and tried to bounce a little, but couldn't really tell much difference. So I will leave it for now and see how it acts during the next mowing session. If it doesn't work, I'll try adding a little more cardboard.

If I can't get this to work, I may have to resort to just bypassing the switch. I don't want to do that, because I think it's a good feature, just too sensitive. Perfect example of unintended consequences. Manufacturer thinks they are promoting safety by installing an oversensitive seat switch, but the end result is people have to bypass it to make the equipment usable....
View attachment 919583

Mowed entire yard today with two pieces of cardboard between the bottom of the seat foam and the seat sensor. For now at least, this seems to have solved the sensitivity problem. Did not shut down the mower once from bouncing.

It did shut down once due to me "repositioning" on the seat, however. I can at least live with it now.

Also bagged up some grass for the compost pile and am happy to report that this thing bagged thick, wet grass like a champ. Looking forward to trying it out for fall leaf pickup.....

 

[Runner]

In the interest of full disclosure, and not being one to deny my screw-ups, I must confess that I have hit my shop TWICE now with the Cub. First time, forgot it had a ROPS and side swiped the thru-wall air conditioner with it.

Second time, forgot about allowing extra room for turning with the bagger on and put a nice crease in the corner trim.

Have never run into any of my buildings with any other machines for the past 18 years..... but new machine and getting older.....

No real harm done, but damnnnnn.

 

[Runner]

First use of ZTXS5 54 for fall leaf pickup yesterday. As a refresher, I have previously been VERY satisfied with the effectiveness of the triple-bagger system for picking up grass clippings. I have one large cottonwood tree in the front yard that has lost most of its leaves due to drought and season.

The machine worked well, but did seem to kick a fairly large number of leaves out the front/left side of the mower deck that required a second pass to pick up. I found that slowing down and taking 1/2 swath tended to minimize this problem, but some leaves were still blown out.

The extent of pickup was mostly limited to the cottonwood leaves which were very dry and light, so that may have exacerbated the situation. Also, I am still in summer mowing mode, which means deck height set at 4.5 inches. Lowering the height may help eliminate leaf blowout.

Still need to try out the mulching system, but need to continue collecting leaves for now to stock up the compost pile.

Will report back after trial in more ideal conditions.

I will also note that, due to dryness, the machine was emitting a tremendous amount of dust from the bagger, which of course, is located immediately behind the engine air intake. This situation bothers me, but not much I can do about it except change the filter when I'm done....

 

[drumminj]

The Kohler engines have an outer filter (foam sleeve) which is washable. Do the Kawasakis?