YM 1820 Mystery electrical box

[pycoed]

I've just picked up a really nice little YM1820(see below) with the usual tractor wiring issues - I suspect connections behind the fusebox would be the main culprit. Ignition switch partly works but previous owner had bodged two wires to be joined under the the bonnet (hood!) to start her up. As a temp measure I've further bodged these into a push switch that at least you can reach from the wheel! She's an INSTANT starter.
Anyway I'm doubly mystified: firstly by the Japanese wiring diagram I found online, but I suppose I can get around that ... but I have small metal box on the rhs of the bulkhead labelled HITACHI W11-07. It's just a little smaller then the regulator on the other side of the bulkhead, but with a smooth steel case. Three wires are connected into it, Red, Yellow & Black medium diameter so no significant current carried I suppose. Does anyone have any ideas what it does?

 

[ponytug]

@pycoed Congratulations on the new, to you, purchase!

I guess I have three questions;
1) can you post a picture of the Hitachi part?
2) have you tried a google image search on the photo of the part?
3)given that the prior owner bodged a few things together, did you check where the item is connected to?

My bet would be that it is, in fact, the voltage regulator. Hitachi made a variety of them for older tractors and cars.

On older vehicles/tractors where the previous owners have mucked about with the wiring, I'm generally inclined to set aside time and just rewire. It gives the tractor fresh connectors, insulation, and, for my work, often a chance to upgrade the wire quality and gauge. I tend to use marine grade wire and waterproof connectors. I find that it saves me effort in the long run, as I end up touching every connection, switch, and sensor. For me, I find it rather satisfying work, but I know that isn't the case for everyone. Given the climate where you live, I personally would be inclined to be generous with dielectric grease and protection sprays.

All the best,

Peter

 

[winston1]

I

I've just picked up a really nice little YM1820(see below) with the usual tractor wiring issues - I suspect connections behind the fusebox would be the main culprit. Ignition switch partly works but previous owner had bodged two wires to be joined under the the bonnet (hood!) to start her up. As a temp measure I've further bodged these into a push switch that at least you can reach from the wheel! She's an INSTANT starter.
Anyway I'm doubly mystified: firstly by the Japanese wiring diagram I found online, but I suppose I can get around that ... but I have small metal box on the rhs of the bulkhead labelled HITACHI W11-07. It's just a little smaller then the regulator on the other side of the bulkhead, but with a smooth steel case. Three wires are connected into it, Red, Yellow & Black medium diameter so no significant current carried I suppose. Does anyone have any ideas what it does?
View attachment 883401

I suspect it controls the thermostart. My old 2002D had one.

 

[careyo63]

My 2000 setup! The box behind the Solid state is the Org. V. Reg.. I use a Alternator similar. Your Alternator should be a AL-1215 12V-15Amp. I use a AL-1220 that looks the same but is wired different. My guess is the Mystery box is the Org. Regulator. Not a Solid State. I'm showing a Solid State Voltage Reg. for a 1820 should be a VR-522 6plug. And being Org. the mystery box maybe a Regulator and needed a Adapter WH-522 4 plug adapter . Fredricks Equipment is clearly showing it so I'm sure they can tell you more about it and a possible upgrade made?.

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[pycoed]

@pycoed Congratulations on the new, to you, purchase!

I guess I have three questions;
1) can you post a picture of the Hitachi part?
2) have you tried a google image search on the photo of the part?
3)given that the prior owner bodged a few things together, did you check where the item is connected to?

My bet would be that it is, in fact, the voltage regulator. Hitachi made a variety of them for older tractors and cars.

On older vehicles/tractors where the previous owners have mucked about with the wiring, I'm generally inclined to set aside time and just rewire. It gives the tractor fresh connectors, insulation, and, for my work, often a chance to upgrade the wire quality and gauge. I tend to use marine grade wire and waterproof connectors. I find that it saves me effort in the long run, as I end up touching every connection, switch, and sensor. For me, I find it rather satisfying work, but I know that isn't the case for everyone. Given the climate where you live, I personally would be inclined to be generous with dielectric grease and protection sprays.

All the best,

Peter

Yeah I know what you mean - my first tractor an UTB 445DT (sold in US as a Long 445) needed a complete rewire since just about every cable was rotted. I've found the former Soviet bloc countries couldn't do plastics at all well - ever felt the interior panels in a Yugo or Lada? Ugghhh!
Ditto with my Zetor - which has a LOT of wiring: lights, flashers, heater wipers washers trailer sockets etc etc. Took a LOT of work to get everything working on that - climbing up stepladders to get at the work lights & heater blowers was fun!
However this one is very good generally - cables all have kept their colour & flex well & all seem in place except the solenoid starter connection. Also no sign of bodgery behind the dash. Original starter connection had been disconneced & a jumper pair connected from the + terminal & solenoid & left loose under the bonnet. Touching the two ends together started her up. Apart from that, the wiring looks original & in good shape.
Horn & turn indicators work - all guages but no headlamps, & this start issue. I'll work through it slowly over the next couple of days but wife's car needs an MOT test next week so that'll take precedence (you know how it goes...?)

 

[pycoed]

I suspect it controls the thermostart. My old 2002D had one.

Looks exactly like it - I'll post some pics today. I wonder what it might do for the thermostart? Sense temperature & inhibit operation unless below 0 Celsius? I'd be surprised if I ever needed the thermostart this little engine is such a good starter & our temps never get much below 5 Celsius here ( absolute coldest ever here was down to -15 but most winters only a week or so of sub zero)

 

[pycoed]

My 2000 setup! The box behind the Solid state is the Org. V. Reg.. I use a Alternator similar. Your Alternator should be a AL-1215 12V-15Amp. I use a AL-1220 that looks the same but is wired different. My guess is the Mystery box is the Org. Regulator. Not a Solid State. I'm showing a Solid State Voltage Reg. for a 1820 should be a VR-522 6plug. And being Org. the mystery box maybe a Regulator and needed a Adapter WH-522 4 plug adapter . Fredricks Equipment is clearly showing it so I'm sure they can tell you more about it and a possible upgrade made?.

Attachments

• 
  000_0222.JPG

  2.5 MB · Views: 492

My regulator has the six plug & all looks original there & with the alternator too.

 

[pycoed]

Fredericks Equipment looks a very useful reference site too, though I expect the shipping costs would kill any order possibility. Luckily most engine parts are easy over here since Yanmar engines were widely used in diggers & dumpers as well as the compact tractors

 

[winston1]

Looks exactly like it - I'll post some pics today. I wonder what it might do for the thermostart? Sense temperature & inhibit operation unless below 0 Celsius? I'd be surprised if I ever needed the thermostart this little engine is such a good starter & our temps never get much below 5 Celsius here ( absolute coldest ever here was down to -15 but most winters only a week or so of sub zero)

When turning the key to the left for activating the themostart the red light on the dash would come on indicating the themostart was working. The little box then automatically turned off the thermostart and red light. Just how is did that is a mystery to me.

 

[careyo63]

Ghetto Rigged on his Ign. Switched