Stuck Clutch

[John Chapman]

I am a newby here. I have an old 1988? Ford 1920 tractor with a front end loader (bucket). Ugly as sin but worked ok until I parked in rainy season for over a month. Clutch is stuck. Tried blocking the clutch lever towing a truck behind it while applying the truck brakes off and on but no help. Is there an access hole anywhere that I can use to spray carb cleaner on the clutch and flywheel? I don't see one. Any advice would be appreciated.
Also during my adventure found the the adjustable clutch link connecting the pedal to the clutch lever needs to be replaced. The 90 degree bend at the end (with the cotter pin) is deformed and not long enough to secure the rod to the lever properly. I tried to put a washer on the back side for the cotter pin to fit behind, but there is insufficient length on the 90 degree bend. The rod detaches frequently where the cotter pin goes and the "fit" at that location is sloppy. Does anyone know where I can get the link and/or what the part number is?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

You have to keep towing it, until the flywheel gets hot, then the plate will let go, it may take a while. Make the engine work!

That has worked EVERY time for me.

SR

 

[John Chapman]

Will give it a try-thanks for the comment.

 

[Cycledude]

I never even heard of clutch getting stuck until reading about it on this board

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It happens waaay more often than you would think...

SR

 

[lman]

It happens much more often if you park it outside. A shelter would be great for your tractor.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just put in neutral and start it and get it warm. Kill it, put it in low gear and drive against a tree or a stump with clutch pedal pressed down. Un stuck many. In a truck you can usually work the accelerator pedal and they'll pop loose. Tractors have too much gearing.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

I never even heard of clutch getting stuck until reading about it on this board

The owners manual of my old Ford recommends blocking the clutch for long term storage. That was the 1993 edition, but I'll bet the advice goes back further than than in tractor manuals.

 

[the old grind]

My new-bought blue CUT came with a block on a lanyard and the OM shows how place it to release just enough pressure during long-term or and/or damp storage. There's an inspection cover on the left side of the clutch housing to check/make adjustments.

This book will pay for itself quickly. ($40) It shows the steps and measurements to adjust any clutch version among other service specifics. IMO it's a must-have for Shibaura Ford/NHs, covers 1120 to 2120 and doesn't leave much out but FELs.

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[Ricks1920]

I am considering Buying a ford 1920. The current owner said the clutch was stuck and he unstuck it but now the clutch squeal when engaged. However the clutch never slips under a load. Can the clutch be adjusted or will it need replacing?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I am considering Buying a ford 1920. The current owner said the clutch was stuck and he unstuck it but now the clutch squeal when engaged. However the clutch never slips under a load. Can the clutch be adjusted or will it need replacing?

Sounds more like it needs the throw out bearing replaced to me, but if you are in there, may as well replace the clutch too.

SR

 

[John0829]

I agree if the noise is only made when you put your foot on the clutch then it most likely is the throw bearing.

 

[ultrarunner]

Can it be greased?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Can it be greased?

Not without taking it out, and replacement is the proper fix.

SR

 

[WinterDeere]

You have to keep towing it, until the flywheel gets hot, then the plate will let go, it may take a while. Make the engine work!

That has worked EVERY time for me.

SR

Wouldn't just running it awhile, to get everything up to temperature before trying to break it loose, be a lot easier on it than extended towing?

I'd be finding a way to block the clutch open, after this.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Wouldn't just running it awhile, to get everything up to temperature before trying to break it loose, be a lot easier on it than extended towing?

I'd be finding a way to block the clutch open, after this.

"Working it" creates more heat and sooner than just letting it sit and run.

It's the heat that gets the clutch plate to break free.

SR

 

[ultrarunner]

Not without taking it out, and replacement is the proper fix.

SR

My old Ford's have a grease zerk for the throw out bearing collar

I don't know if Ford carried the design forward?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

My old Ford's have a grease zerk for the throw out bearing collar

I don't know if Ford carried the design forward?

It was common on old equipment, not so much on newer tractors.

SR

 

[John0829]

It was common on old equipment, not so much on newer tractors.

SR

Plus it was just the slide collar that got grease it did not grease the bearing itself. The ONLY fix for a noisy bearing is a new one. IF is just now starting to make noise then you might get by with only replacing the bearing BUT if you let it go to long you will end up having to replace the pressure plate as well.

 

[5030]

Another reason why I'm thankful neither of my Kubota M9's have a dry clutch. My old, long gone Massy diesel did. Glad it went down the road to never-never land. I really don't like dry clutches in tractors one bit.