My building is supposed to have r21 fiber insulation but the way they put it on it is squished down so I don’t think it’s really that high. My roll up doors aren’t insulated(and don’t seal up tight at the top) I need figure that out.
Shop AC Sizing
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Sigarms
Super Star Member
Question becomes the actual size of the doors, how many and expected time they are open.
If they stay open for summer and it's hot, just buy one of these
Big Ass Fans - Big Air, Big Fans, Big Attitude
Big Ass Fans can create comfortable conditions anywhere. Shop industrial fans, directional fans, infrared heaters and evaporative coolers.
bigassfans.com
OP
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
I may end up doing nothing but a fan for now, but we’ll see.
Sigarms
Super Star Member
What's the price difference between a 24K and a 12K?
OP
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
say $1700 vs $2500.
Sigarms
Super Star Member
Put the less expensive 18K (or 12K) wall unit 9' tall on the 20' wall in the line of sight area you use the most. I would not install it close to a wall though, but pick a side you use the most.
Keep in mind, this is NOT what I would do but more along the lines of a hail Mary to offer something.
Honestly, without insulating the building properly, particularly the ceiling area, it's an up hill battle with any type of system.
I do know for some large industrial areas, we've used high velocity systems for spot cooling for worker areas in the warehouse. You're not trying to cool the entire building, but put cooler air on work stations where people generally stay. Given the size of your building along with costs, not really an option though.
Fan option would be my first pick though given your situation.
OP
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
Thanks
I have the two ceiling fans and I may try adding an exhaust fan in a window and see how it goes for now.
I wanted to install a ceiling and insulate, but that maybe a down the road project.
I have the two ceiling fans and I may try adding an exhaust fan in a window and see how it goes for now.
I wanted to install a ceiling and insulate, but that maybe a down the road project.
tractortroof
Gold Member
I have a 30x50x14 white metal building in Florida with the bubble wrap. I don’t ac it all the time. I just threw a 5 ton package unit on it with 10’ ceiling fans.
I would not attempt to keep a building like that conditioned, only for when I’m working on something.
I would not attempt to keep a building like that conditioned, only for when I’m working on something.
OP
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
That’s kinda what I was thinking about doing.
This is our first whole summer with this garage, so we’ll see what it’s like.
bigtiller
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I put a 42" fan in 3 of the 4 corners of my shed and have them all directing air counter-clockwise. It makes a really nice breeze.
It is also very well insulated and I have an undersized dehumidifier running. No heat/cooling and with keeping the doors closed, it stays comfortable year around.
It is also very well insulated and I have an undersized dehumidifier running. No heat/cooling and with keeping the doors closed, it stays comfortable year around.
dstig1
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Kinda like how they call what the TSA does in airports "security theater" I think of bubble wrap as Insulation Theater... It might be removing the condensing surface for you, as you say it stops the dripping, but it really has almost no insulation value.
I'm in a way different climate zone so my shop is fully insulated and sealed to be heated in the winter, but I do not have AC. It would be nice but I just can't justify it here. What I have done is add a dehumidifier and keep the shop sealed up as much as possible in the summer. It does get hot in there as the dehumidifier is dumping that heat back in, but the reduction in humidity actually makes it feel a lot nicer, plus eliminates the minor surface rusting I would see on some tools. So that is one potential thought...
But what Sig and Eddie said is what will make the real difference: you need to insulate first. Otherwise you are just blowing money out the door in excessive electricity use and it still probably won't keep up.
I'm in a way different climate zone so my shop is fully insulated and sealed to be heated in the winter, but I do not have AC. It would be nice but I just can't justify it here. What I have done is add a dehumidifier and keep the shop sealed up as much as possible in the summer. It does get hot in there as the dehumidifier is dumping that heat back in, but the reduction in humidity actually makes it feel a lot nicer, plus eliminates the minor surface rusting I would see on some tools. So that is one potential thought...
But what Sig and Eddie said is what will make the real difference: you need to insulate first. Otherwise you are just blowing money out the door in excessive electricity use and it still probably won't keep up.
FPGT72
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My building is your size, but with 24' side walls, so REAL TALL.
I have a single 240v "window" unit. 28k BTU. I will run it when I am in there. I am in MO so summers are usually in the 90's with humidity about the same or higher.
In the heat of the day I will start it up for about 30min before I plan on going out there. That will take the edge off. The humidity is the real killer. It will be comfortable to work in there with the AC on in pants and a Tshirt.
If you want to go to the up stairs it is VERY different, I have thermometers up there and temps over 100F are real common. That hot air just hangs out up there with no place to go. When going up you can feel a BIG difference at about 8' off the ground.
Plans are to put a few gable fans in there to give that hot air a way out. I think that will really help. Till those get installed I have two fairly large floor fans that I will turn on and then point up to where I am. It does make a difference, but it will make down stairs much warmer as the air moves. I will also turn on the ceiling fan, that helps as well. I run the ceiling fan more in the winter to move that warm air back down to the ground. I have also taken the floor fans up stairs and pointed them down to move the hot air down.
It is really amazing at how that temp changes at around 8'. In the winter it can be just livable down stairs, but you need shorts and a tshirt up stairs.
I have a single 240v "window" unit. 28k BTU. I will run it when I am in there. I am in MO so summers are usually in the 90's with humidity about the same or higher.
In the heat of the day I will start it up for about 30min before I plan on going out there. That will take the edge off. The humidity is the real killer. It will be comfortable to work in there with the AC on in pants and a Tshirt.
If you want to go to the up stairs it is VERY different, I have thermometers up there and temps over 100F are real common. That hot air just hangs out up there with no place to go. When going up you can feel a BIG difference at about 8' off the ground.
Plans are to put a few gable fans in there to give that hot air a way out. I think that will really help. Till those get installed I have two fairly large floor fans that I will turn on and then point up to where I am. It does make a difference, but it will make down stairs much warmer as the air moves. I will also turn on the ceiling fan, that helps as well. I run the ceiling fan more in the winter to move that warm air back down to the ground. I have also taken the floor fans up stairs and pointed them down to move the hot air down.
It is really amazing at how that temp changes at around 8'. In the winter it can be just livable down stairs, but you need shorts and a tshirt up stairs.
