M62 TLB for Maintaining Hilly Land ?

[AuCivil]

I bought some land for an investment, hunting and as a retirement piddle project. I've got 215 acres of land that's 50% moderately sloped thinned pines and 50% steeper sloped hardwoods and hardwood bottoms. I need to maintain the existing roads/trails and create/improve others so I can access the the rest of the property by SxS. I don't want (nor can I afford) a fleet of used vehicles that may or may not need constant repairs. I don't have enough years left to spend it working on equipment. Would prefer to buy new with extended warranty so someone else is responsible for repairs.

I'll be putting in a septic system, waterline, building pad, maintaining/building access roads, food plots and some brush hogging. Was considering a M62 since it appears to be muli-use piece of equipment. I am concerned about stability driving up and down some of the access areas with the M62 TLB. The worst current road is in the range of 36% to 40% (19 to 21 degrees). I can go up and down with my JD 4710 with loaded R4's but I have also slid down too. The M62's additional weight and the backhoe weight concern me. Don't want to flip over.

Stability on the side hills worries me too. Those areas can be more in the 25% (15 degrees) range. Will the M62 be more tippy than the JD 4710? How does the backhoe affect the tippyness?

 

[jeff9366]

 

[deezler]

The backhoe on an M62 is no small toy! Lotta weight up in the air for sure. Might be more tippy than a 4710, dunno.

Overall I would say its a good fit for your property and projects - just don't drive it on crazy slopes, lol. But seriously, its the exact right machine to fix your trails and make them more safely navigable. No reason to be driving up 40% slopes - cut a bench trail to reduce the angle.

 

[Richard]

Not advising anyone to do it but we've got a spot on a hill. Maybe 20 years ago I needed to get there to dig a flower, hide a dead body, I don't recall.

Bottom line, I did NOT feel comfortable "just driving" over to it (full sized backhoe/loader)

I put her into low gear. Lowered the downhill stabilizer to help catch a side roll then, took the backhoe. I extended it ALL the way out, as close to the ground as I could get it but, I moved it perpendicular so it was now facing up the hill as a counter weight.

I was puckered the entire time but got what I needed to do (forget) done and have never been back on that hill.

 

[rScotty]

We have a Kubota M59 TLB, which is the M62 predecessor with a slighly shorter BH boom.
Yes, the Kubota TLBs are noticablly more stable on hills than a tractor because they weigh twice as much and because a lot of the weight is low down due to heavier duty construction.

You can also add rear wheel weights and spacers.

But with that many acres, and considering the price range you are already looking into I would recommend a full size TLB. Something like a low hour Deere 310G - actually any model 310 from the older E to the newest ones would be more stable than the Kubota. And they are comfortable, too. The JD310 stability and durability is in a whole different league from homeowner TLBs like the Kubota. I know that for a fact as we live in the mountains and have both.

Stop by your yellow (commercial) Deere shop and try one out.
Our 310 has a buddy seat plus room for the dog when we drive it to town.
Whatever you get, get it with a thumb. I try to go straight up and down hills. When I have to traverse a hillside I pick up a log with the hoe+thumb and swing it alongside the uphill side of the tractor as a counterweight. It helps a little with the pucker factor. Better yet, get a dozer to make you some roads.
There will still be plenty of work for the TLB after the dozer leaves.
rScotty

 

[JWR]

Interesting inquiry: 215 acres is a bunch. First you are going to need 3pt hitch hardware for sure besides just the backhoe. You know that... I have no experience with the backhoe but like anything on steep ground -- keep the weight as low as you can.
The typical problem with Kubota is that the Japanese have never so far realized what steep ground is or why one needs the rear wheels far apart. As a result they do not give you much latitude for spreading your rear wheels apart. That is certainly true of the medium to smaller Kubotas -- you need to investigate on your own if you are buying an M62. I do operate other things (e.g. a MF2660 and Kubota B2150) a lot on steeper ground than you mentioned. I have measured one slope that I cut on a monthly basis (and have for years) at 45% in the worst spots. There is NO TIPPINESS in either of my tractors on that slope going sideways at all. Going up/down I do well on 50% slopes or a little worse unless the ground is muddy. Very comfy and plenty of safe margin. That said my older Kubota is fitted with 6" spacers on both sides. It was NOT safe before the spacers. The MF2660 has rear tires 8ft apart at outer edges and they would go wider BUT would create trailering problems and do not need them wider anyway. If I were you, I'd measure the rear tire spacing (I hope the M62 gives you choices!) and set them out as wide as you can. If it feels at all marginal, add spacers ! They do make a world of difference. Only need spacers on rear, not front.
I had a JD4700 for 10 years and it was very stable on the 45% slope and steeper. Anything steeper was places where I was letting the tractor down over it with the brakes while bush hogging (or climbing it upward if the soil allowed, depending on seasons.)
Aside from the roads, how steep do your bush hogging areas get? I used a 6ft Deere MX6 and that JD 4700 on some VERY steep ground and it was a reliable and very controllable machine. Served me well.
One thing you are in for is the pain and strain of taking the backhoe on and off and switching to the bush hog. I do not envy you there with the weight and awkward shape/size of the backhoe. I'd go visit someone who owns that configuration and study that a bit if I were you. Might get the dealer to demo the swapping I would think. Obviously it can be done but as you said , we ain't getting younger.

 

[AuCivil]

We have a Kubota M59 TLB, which is the M62 predecessor with a slighly shorter BH boom.
Yes, the Kubota TLBs are noticablly more stable on hills than a tractor because they weigh twice as much and because a lot of the weight is low down due to heavier duty construction.

You can also add rear wheel weights and spacers.

But with that many acres, and considering the price range you are already looking into I would recommend a full size TLB. Something like a low hour Deere 310G - actually any model 310 from the older E to the newest ones would be more stable than the Kubota. And they are comfortable, too. The JD310 stability and durability is in a whole different league from homeowner TLBs like the Kubota. I know that for a fact as we live in the mountains and have both.

Stop by your yellow (commercial) Deere shop and try one out.
Our 310 has a buddy seat plus room for the dog when we drive it to town.
Whatever you get, get it with a thumb. I try to go straight up and down hills. When I have to traverse a hillside I pick up a log with the hoe+thumb and swing it alongside the uphill side of the tractor as a counterweight. It helps a little with the pucker factor. Better yet, get a dozer to make you some roads.
There will still be plenty of work for the TLB after the dozer leaves.
rScotty

View attachment 853077

Thanks for the advice. No doubt it would be better but the 310 weighs too much for me to move with my setup. It also doesn't have a 3-point/PTO option. If I could avoid limbs, the cab would be nice.

 

[AuCivil]

Interesting inquiry: 215 acres is a bunch. First you are going to need 3pt hitch hardware for sure besides just the backhoe. You know that... I have no experience with the backhoe but like anything on steep ground -- keep the weight as low as you can.
The typical problem with Kubota is that the Japanese have never so far realized what steep ground is or why one needs the rear wheels far apart. As a result they do not give you much latitude for spreading your rear wheels apart. That is certainly true of the medium to smaller Kubotas -- you need to investigate on your own if you are buying an M62. I do operate other things (e.g. a MF2660 and Kubota B2150) a lot on steeper ground than you mentioned. I have measured one slope that I cut on a monthly basis (and have for years) at 45% in the worst spots. There is NO TIPPINESS in either of my tractors on that slope going sideways at all. Going up/down I do well on 50% slopes or a little worse unless the ground is muddy. Very comfy and plenty of safe margin. That said my older Kubota is fitted with 6" spacers on both sides. It was NOT safe before the spacers. The MF2660 has rear tires 8ft apart at outer edges and they would go wider BUT would create trailering problems and do not need them wider anyway. If I were you, I'd measure the rear tire spacing (I hope the M62 gives you choices!) and set them out as wide as you can. If it feels at all marginal, add spacers ! They do make a world of difference. Only need spacers on rear, not front.
I had a JD4700 for 10 years and it was very stable on the 45% slope and steeper. Anything steeper was places where I was letting the tractor down over it with the brakes while bush hogging (or climbing it upward if the soil allowed, depending on seasons.)
Aside from the roads, how steep do your bush hogging areas get? I used a 6ft Deere MX6 and that JD 4700 on some VERY steep ground and it was a reliable and very controllable machine. Served me well.
One thing you are in for is the pain and strain of taking the backhoe on and off and switching to the bush hog. I do not envy you there with the weight and awkward shape/size of the backhoe. I'd go visit someone who owns that configuration and study that a bit if I were you. Might get the dealer to demo the swapping I would think. Obviously it can be done but as you said , we ain't getting younger.

The areas that need to be mowed are flatter. Youtube videos seem to indicate that changing the 3-point to BH is not overly difficult.

 

[rScotty]

As JWR says, the Japanese don't seem to understand about widening the tractor wheelbase for hillside work. But American farm tractors do.

There is a 3pt kit for the M59/62. I'd get it if you go that way, but swapping the hoe and 3pt is enough of a chore that you may want to keep your eyes open for an extra 3pt tractor.... an older American farm tractor for the 3pt hillside work. Although compact and utility size tractors don't have much ability to widen their stance, the next size up in the tractor world are those farm or ag tractors and many offer adjustable width of the wheelbase.

Our old JD "B" ag tractor isn't much good for anything except 3pt work, but like most farm tractors it came with long rear and front axles. The tires can be extended out along those axles to nearly ten feet total. That makes it almost as wide as it is long, looks ridiculous, but is almost impossible to flip. You can find ag tractors with extra long and wide axles.

My own view about hillsides is I try every way possible to avoid going there.

Both of our TLBs will will slide sideways before it begins to feel tippy. I don't know why that is so, but am very glad it does. Both have wide construction tread tires with heavy sidewalls. The M59 weighs a bit over 8000 lbs, the JD 310 about twice that.

Note that most American and Japanese tractors and TLBs DO NOT have brakes on the front wheels or any suspension - although I understand that European tractors have both. Think for a moment about what that means when going downhill with a weight in the loader bucket.....

rScotty

 

[deezler]

Note that most American and Japanese tractors and TLBs DO NOT have brakes on the front wheels or any suspension - although I understand that European tractors have both. Think for a moment about what that means when going downhill with a weight in the loader bucket.....

Which is why you always, always use 4WD for working on hills.

 

[AuCivil]

As JWR says, the Japanese don't seem to understand about widening the tractor wheelbase for hillside work. But American farm tractors do.

There is a 3pt kit for the M59/62. I'd get it if you go that way, but swapping the hoe and 3pt is enough of a chore that you may want to keep your eyes open for an extra 3pt tractor.... an older American farm tractor for the 3pt hillside work. Although compact and utility size tractors don't have much ability to widen their stance, the next size up in the tractor world are those farm or ag tractors and many offer adjustable width of the wheelbase.

Our old JD "B" ag tractor isn't much good for anything except 3pt work, but like most farm tractors it came with long rear and front axles. The tires can be extended out along those axles to nearly ten feet total. That makes it almost as wide as it is long, looks ridiculous, but is almost impossible to flip. You can find ag tractors with extra long and wide axles.

My own view about hillsides is I try every way possible to avoid going there.

Both of our TLBs will will slide sideways before it begins to feel tippy. I don't know why that is so, but am very glad it does. Both have wide construction tread tires with heavy sidewalls. The M59 weighs a bit over 8000 lbs, the JD 310 about twice that.

Note that most American and Japanese tractors and TLBs DO NOT have brakes on the front wheels or any suspension - although I understand that European tractors have both. Think for a moment about what that means when going downhill with a weight in the loader bucket.....

rScotty

My 4710 is a little smaller. Probably 4500 lbs with loader. I use 4x4 in low when I go down hills. Seems like long axles would be a severe hindrance in the woods.

Disappointed to hear that changing the BH is a chore. May push me to re-think my equipment choices.

 

[rScotty]

Thanks for the advice. No doubt it would be better but the 310 weighs too much for me to move with my setup. It also doesn't have a 3-point/PTO option. If I could avoid limbs, the cab would be nice.

Well, if the 310 is too heavy then that is no good & that is the end of it. BTW, the M59 is right at 8000 lbs and the 310 is twice that. Low down weight and wide industrial tires make both TLBs tend to slide before tipping. When we bought the Kubota TLB, rear wheel extenders were offered by Kubota in their "build it" option.

Although swapping the BH and 3pt accessory on the Kubota TLB is about as simple and civilized as possible, those 3pt components are HEAVY. I have that 3pt kit, but at close to 80 I am getting too old to swap them comfortably. So take your own age into account. There was a time when it swapping them was no chore at all. And at that time it only took maybe 15 minutes. Took longer to find all the parts than to swap them.

However, for us older guys there is another point in favor of the Kubota TLB. That Kubota is about the easiest Tractor or TLB ever made to get onto and off of. Much nicer than most and that is way more important than I wish it was.
Try one and you'll see what I mean.
rScotty

 

[JWR]

My 4710 is a little smaller. Probably 4500 lbs with loader. I use 4x4 in low when I go down hills. Seems like long axles would be a severe hindrance in the woods.

Disappointed to hear that changing the BH is a chore. May push me to re-think my equipment choices.

I tend to agree with Scotty -- you probably ought to think in terms of a separate tractor for bush hogging. Brand new backhoe machines are expensive enough you might very well get a low hours backhoe and an older utility tractor for about the same money.
You didn't mention the acreage needing bush hog work, but a 6ft hog will cover a lot of territory pulled by a medium say 45 to 55 hp utility tractor. I would not be hesitant to buy a used utility tractor of name brand with under 1000 hrs on it -- the lower the better of course. 4WD of course, I'd never get a 2WD. These days a New tractor is not necessarily trouble free! I'd be just as happy, maybe more so, if I found a good deal on one with 200 to 400 hrs on it rather than brand new.
While I am preaching, I think you should estimate how much of your likely work will be with the backhoe and how much with the bush/utility tractor. Spend accordingly. OBTW, maint and repair costs will be drastically greater for the backhoe than for the plain old utility tractor over the long haul, everything else being equal.

 

[AuCivil]

I tend to agree with Scotty -- you probably ought to think in terms of a separate tractor for bush hogging. Brand new backhoe machines are expensive enough you might very well get a low hours backhoe and an older utility tractor for about the same money.
You didn't mention the acreage needing bush hog work, but a 6ft hog will cover a lot of territory pulled by a medium say 45 to 55 hp utility tractor. I would not be hesitant to buy a used utility tractor of name brand with under 1000 hrs on it -- the lower the better of course. 4WD of course, I'd never get a 2WD. These days a New tractor is not necessarily trouble free! I'd be just as happy, maybe more so, if I found a good deal on one with 200 to 400 hrs on it rather than brand new.
While I am preaching, I think you should estimate how much of your likely work will be with the backhoe and how much with the bush/utility tractor. Spend accordingly. OBTW, maint and repair costs will be drastically greater for the backhoe than for the plain old utility tractor over the long haul, everything else being equal.

May need to bush hog 15-20 acres and scrape a couple of miles of road.
Was thinking the backhoe with thumb would be an asset in moving stump piles from the thinning and downed trees.
Was also considering a stump grinder to clear some of the trails.

 

[rScotty]

May need to bush hog 15-20 acres and scrape a couple of miles of road.
Was thinking the backhoe with thumb would be an asset in moving stump piles from the thinning and downed trees.
Was also considering a stump grinder to clear some of the trails.

I've never met anyone who put a a thumb on their backhoe and regretted it. The simple addition of the thumb makes it into a completely different machine. Now it picks up logs and holds them at waist level for cutting into rounds. It stacks stumps into piles and places uncut limbed logs into neat racks.

I've got a six foot tall rack of limbed 12 to 20" pine logs about ten feet wide and 40/50 feet long. The bottom row is on stickers, so the whole pile is just curing in place. Will be firewood, not lumber. I've no idea how a person would do that without a hoe and thumb.

The thumb picks up stones out of the ground and places them into stone walls. It landscapes, then picks up scrap of all kinds, wads it up, and places it into a dumpster. It uproots shrubs and puts them into a pile. There is just no end to the lifting work it saves.

Digging with the hoe becomes secondary. Because of the thumb, we are always using the hoe - but I almost cannot remember when I last used it for digging or trenching.

If you have stumps, please do get a stump grinder or something like it. Or come up with a scheme.
I don't have one but can tell you that stump digging is rough. Digging anything over the occasional 8 to 10" stump will make your hoe old before its time. Digging stumps and side-sweeping with the bucket are what is hard on them.
That goes for the big 310 as well.
rScotty

 

[AuCivil]

I've never met anyone who put a a thumb on their backhoe and regretted it. The simple addition of the thumb makes it into a completely different machine. Now it picks up logs and holds them at waist level for cutting into rounds. It stacks stumps into piles and places uncut limbed logs into neat racks.

I've got a six foot tall rack of limbed 12 to 20" pine logs about ten feet wide and 40/50 feet long. The bottom row is on stickers, so the whole pile is just curing in place. Will be firewood, not lumber. I've no idea how a person would do that without a hoe and thumb.

The thumb picks up stones out of the ground and places them into stone walls. It landscapes, then picks up scrap of all kinds, wads it up, and places it into a dumpster. It uproots shrubs and puts them into a pile. There is just no end to the lifting work it saves.

Digging with the hoe becomes secondary. Because of the thumb, we are always using the hoe - but I almost cannot remember when I last used it for digging or trenching.

If you have stumps, please do get a stump grinder or something like it. Or come up with a scheme.
I don't have one but can tell you that stump digging is rough. Digging anything over the occasional 8 to 10" stump will make your hoe old before its time. Digging stumps and side-sweeping with the bucket are what is hard on them.
That goes for the big 310 as well.
rScotty

Just need to get rid of the protruding part of the stumps to allow mowing, disking and eliminate high-centering vehicles. Would still need to be careful blading and scraping.

 

[RjCorazza]

I've never met anyone who put a a thumb on their backhoe and regretted it....

I believe that. I recently used an excavator for the first, and likely last time.... 3rd project would have been much easier with a thumb.

 

[Fixastuff]

If I was working trails with a backhoe I’d go at them backwards and do whatever bench cutting is needed to make them safe.

 

[AuCivil]

If I was working trails with a backhoe I’d go at them backwards and do whatever bench cutting is needed to make them safe.

That's what i was thinking. Not near as fast as a mini-x but workable.

 

[mikester]

Thanks for the advice. No doubt it would be better but the 310 weighs too much for me to move with my setup. It also doesn't have a 3-point/PTO option. If I could avoid limbs, the cab would be nice.

Unless you have a specific need for a compact machine you aren't doing yourself any favours getting an M62 over a full sized construction TLB.