Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale

   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #31  
Good point, the heat shrink butt connectors designed for that use are pretty serious, a year ago I replaced my well pump after it'd been underwater for around 9 years (lots of silt and a whole bunch of sand when it was first put in so the impeller was shot, took out the valves in the water softener tanks too) and they were perfectly fine 80' underground (water line was about 20' down so 60' of head on them)
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #32  
Solder the wires together and use a piece of encapsulated heat shrink.
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #33  
Properly formed crimps will not fail due to corrosion. If a crimp is properly made, the stands of wire basically cold weld together. No air or liquid can get in to corrode the joint. If you just use a pair of hinged plier type crimpers, you're bound to be making improper crimps. You need a good quality set of crimping pliers that crimp to a set dimension, to use the correct size die, and the terminals need to be properly sized for the wire used. Miss on any of these and you get garbage crimps.

If that's the case, yes, a solder joint will definitely be better. However a properly crimped joint is better yet for any environment with a lot of vibration (tractors, cars, space ships, etc.) due to solder joints being so stiff. Soldered wire joints will often fail at the transition between the soldered and unsoldered wire, especially if there's any movement in the wire. The crimp terminals allow the wire strands to flex and move better.

I do frequently add a bit of adhesive lined heat shrink over my crimped terminals also though, better safe than sorry, and it also adds a little more strain relief and environmental protection, especially in areas where things can get wet and if there are no weather sealed fittings.
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #34  
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #35  
Solder the wires together and use a piece of encapsulated heat shrink.
I would have done that but it would have taken a year to finish the job. did it in 3 months off & on with the connectors with the shrink.too many wire to solder on the rewire job
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #36  
How Ironic; The Amazon link took me straight to the product I was talking about. And many people here went on about crimp connectors. Just goes show many people do not read the posts.

I assumed I would get a lot of pushback saying "I've been using these for years". I wasted my time posting this. BTW I got my kit and have tried it out. Except for my mistake in setting the heat gun to hot it worked well.
I learned a great deal about a subject I thought I knew well enough because of your post. Your post was NOT a waste of time! Thanks for sharing...

Have a nice day!
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #37  
these come up a bit, they work fine if your patient, i actually made a video, because everyone said how much they suck and aren't strong.

link to what i used is in the video

I use these, but I always use 2 layers for heat shrink tubing over them (2nd layer as much longer as I can get away with or 1/2"). The reason is that, as seen in the video, is that the end of that kind of heat shrink is hard and rigid which makes for a fatigue point as the wire flexes, at the end of the splice, from vibration. This kind of open is a pita to trouble shoot. It also seems to makes a moisture proof seal.
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #39  
The link goes to the solder type connectors thus my bad assumption 🍻
ColorRED BLUE YELLOW WHITE
Gauge10,12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26
Connector TypeSolder
Contact MaterialTin
Insulation MaterialPolyethylene
If I'm remembering right, solder is lead and tin. I forget the percentages. That's why plumbing solder now must say lead free. Don't think it's the same as silver solder though.
 
   / Waterproof Solderless Heat Shrink Butt Terminal on sale #40  
Properly formed crimps will not fail due to corrosion. If a crimp is properly made, the stands of wire basically cold weld together. No air or liquid can get in to corrode the joint. If you just use a pair of hinged plier type crimpers, you're bound to be making improper crimps. You need a good quality set of crimping pliers that crimp to a set dimension, to use the correct size die, and the terminals need to be properly sized for the wire used. Miss on any of these and you get garbage crimps.

If that's the case, yes, a solder joint will definitely be better. However a properly crimped joint is better yet for any environment with a lot of vibration (tractors, cars, space ships, etc.) due to solder joints being so stiff. Soldered wire joints will often fail at the transition between the soldered and unsoldered wire, especially if there's any movement in the wire. The crimp terminals allow the wire strands to flex and move better.

I do frequently add a bit of adhesive lined heat shrink over my crimped terminals also though, better safe than sorry, and it also adds a little more strain relief and environmental protection, especially in areas where things can get wet and if there are no weather sealed fittings.
That's what I said.
 
 
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