Skid Steer Mount Locking levers stuck

[Sierraau]

So, I penetrating oiled the heck out of it and started beating on the angled end and they finally started to move, and once they broke free, they easily moved up and down probably 20 times. A friend stopped by and I showed him how nicely they work. My friend leaves and I go to put the snow plow on and wouldn't you know.... one of them is frozen up again. I can tell this thing is going to give me fits. When I break it free, what shall I coat it with so I don't have the same issues over and over again- since there are no zerks involved?

 

[Tomtint]

So, I penetrating oiled the heck out of it and started beating on the angled end and they finally started to move, and once they broke free, they easily moved up and down probably 20 times. A friend stopped by and I showed him how nicely they work. My friend leaves and I go to put the snow plow on and wouldn't you know.... one of them is frozen up again. I can tell this thing is going to give me fits. When I break it free, what shall I coat it with so I don't have the same issues over and over again- since there are no zerks involved?

Drill it and put in a zerk. Id also blast them with lubricant while moving them in order to get it in there so it docent seize up. If you are in a cold area, Its possible the metal has shrunk a bit, compounding the problem.. Lube is your friend... The more friends the better.

 

[5030]

Grease fittings to the rescue. Put them midway between the top and bottom of the tubes and grease the hell out of them.

 

[Rustyiron]

If you take off the linkage to the handle, the pin will come out of the bottom. (you said this linkage is free)
Remove, clean and inspect it for rust. The tube it was in...
the same. An appropriate size plumber's fitting brush (round wire brush) might do the trick or at least help. Dry and clean it should move freely assembled. It's a simple, obvious assembly and for some reason the pin may not be straight. Check it with a straight edge if it's movement is still stubborn. The tube is probably heavy wall DOM and unless it was distorted during welding, it's probably straight.
A little flap wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder will take it down (if necessary) if you carefully and evenly hit all sides equally. (as possible)
Reassemble it dry (2 bolts) and mess with it until it works properly. Drilling in a grease fitting where it's accessible and in a safe position somewhere near the center of the tubes length is easy. It may be that there's little room to run in a tap, an 1/8" hole and a needle adapter for the grease gun will be sufficient for lubrication. Just put operating each handle on your weekly checklist. Grease as needed.
This was long but it's a very simple straight forward job and not nearly as complicated as this long post might make it seem.

 

[PEJ5]

I had a similar experience when I purchased my tractor used a few years ago. Mine was not so bad, but to this day I have to beat on the SSQA release arms with a 2x4 in order to remove the bucket. With my forks on, the release arms move with very little effort.
One day I plan to measure and compare the bucket and fork ssqa holes and grind the bucket ever so slightly. No need to be that tight.

 

[two_bit_score]

The handles move freely, its the pin that the handles supposedly raise and lower that are frozen, so a cheater is of no benefit.

If the handles are moving freely and the pins are not, are you sure that the connection has not come apart?

Edit: OK so I saw post #21 and now you know they can be released so keep working it and don't beat it so much that you deform it.

 

[Rustyiron]

If you're handles move freely with NO attachment, (bucket)
and difficult or impossible WITH the attachment, there's a problem with the attachment. I've noticed over the last 20+ years that there's either a little "wiggle room" in the specifications of the "system", or the aftermarket producers take a little "latitude" in their attachments to avoid a problem with the many weekend warriors having issues. This results in a loose attachment.
It would be great if the much simpler and sturdier "euro" quick attach was the winner here some 35 +/- years ago.

 

[Sierraau]

If you're handles move freely with NO attachment, (bucket)
and difficult or impossible WITH the attachment, there's a problem with the attachment. I've noticed over the last 20+ years that there's either a little "wiggle room" in the specifications of the "system", or the aftermarket producers take a little "latitude" in their attachments to avoid a problem with the many weekend warriors having issues. This results in a loose attachment.
It would be great if the much simpler and sturdier "euro" quick attach was the winner here some 35 +/- years ago.

The design of this system leaves a lot to be desired: tight clearances with no ability to apply grease, other than slather it all over the place and is what I did when I finally broke it free AGAIN. Got the Plow on and now I am on to other things. Thanks for all the great feedback.

 

[two_bit_score]

Congratulations @Sierraau!

 

[workinonit]

If you'll get you a can of Kerny and spray them down you won't have anymore issues with them.

 

[Dman1981]

Get something other than WD40 to free it up. I use Kerny Rust Cutter. Some of the best stuff I've ever tried. PB Blaster is good. WD40 to me is useless.

I use wd 40 to clean my tools dries quick and goes away

 

[workinonit]

I don't own a can.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Just bought.a 2019 7320 over the summer and my new Erskine Plow was just dropped off and I was all ready to slap that puppy on, when I discovered a problem. The owner of the tractor before me apparently never took the front bucket off, and when I tried to move the levers to release the bucket, the levers moved a little bit but the bolt that the levers move appears to be frozen and will not move. I sprayed the heck out of it with wd40 beat it on the lower side with a hammer and a punch and nothing is budging. I got a mapps gas torch out and heated the metal up for about 30 seconds and tried beating it again, and nothing is moving. And ideas what to do? The beveled edge of the pin makes it hard to get a good smack. View attachment 831280View attachment 831281

1) Hit the pins with PB Blaster and let them soak.

2) While trying to exercise the SSQA lever open, beat/pry/threaten (whatever will work) the stuck pin out from the bottom (may need a friend to help).

3) The pins are to be greased.

If your set-up has the single lever SSQA that Kioti tends to use, both the lever itself as well as where the pivot lever bolts up to tends to strip out or peen itself to not functioning under mild resistance from the pins. Eventually, I punted the lever and welded a big nut on my NX series Kioti.

And remember to grease the pins.

 

[IndyIan]

The design of this system leaves a lot to be desired: tight clearances with no ability to apply grease, other than slather it all over the place and is what I did when I finally broke it free AGAIN. Got the Plow on and now I am on to other things. Thanks for all the great feedback.

Everytime I grease the loader, I wipe some on the top and shaft of the pins, which kind of gets all over, but I don't think mine has ever rusted either. For yours I would take the pins out and cleanup the holes they run in a bit with some sandpaper wrapped around a drill bit.