hydraulic oil life

[steve tym]

And keep in mind, unlike motor oil, it doesn't get contaminated with hydrocarbons.

 

[Captain Dirty]

The old fashion way was to have a look at the oil, if it's getting a bit black, or it looks a bit milky, or you can feel it a bit gritty when you rub it between your fingers, then maybe it's time for a change. But if it's nice and clean and slippery, then maybe have another look later.

While the old fashioned way may tell you it is past time for a change, oil analysis by a reputable lab is more sensitive, accurate, and reassuring. I use Blackstone Labs for both crankcase(s) and hydraulic oil. Following their recommendations I've had no mechanical problems with extended change intervals. (No commercial relationship with the lab beyond paying about $30 per analysis.)

 

[ericm979]

Draining hydraulic oil into a pan in one shot means having a pan that holds 13 to 15 gallons and then having enough lip on the pan so as to be able to slide that monster out from under the tractor.

Not everyone has such a huge oil pan. Or can handle the weight. And once you've got that pan successfully out from under the tractor without making a mess, how do you empty it? And into what?
That pan of oil now weighs over 100 lbs....

5 gallon pails won't fit under my tractor and I don't like the idea of having to slide something heavy aside to swap in an empty pail. It's going to make a mess and my barn's floor is rough 100 year old farmer concrete that's hard to clean.

I use one of these:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/flotool/hopkins-flotool-oil-drain-pan/hop5/42008

when its full I put it in the loader bucket and pour into 5 gallon pails.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

The initial (50 hr) filter change on the M6040 taught me a lesson.

For the next one I parked the tractor with as much of a side tilt as I dared, and lost a lot less fluid. It also helps to have a second magnet ready so time isn't spent on cleaning off the one that was in there.

 

[RjCorazza]

The initial (50 hr) filter change on the M6040 taught me a lesson.

For the next one I parked the tractor with as much of a side tilt as I dared, and lost a lot less fluid. It also helps to have a second magnet ready so time isn't spent on cleaning off the one that was in there.

I use the magnets to hold on to extra lynch pins... Slap the magnet on the pto shield, and it holds 4 pins nicely. My last filter change didn't have the magnet on the new filter, so maybe the L4060 hydraulic filter doesn't come with them anymore?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

My last filter change didn't have the magnet on the new filter, so maybe the L4060 hydraulic filter doesn't come with them anymore?

I used NAPA filters that time, so had to reuse the magnet. OE filters seem to come with it.
As long as I have one extra the new filter is ready to go as soon as the old one is out of the way.

 

[mo1]

Hello all,

I have a new Kioti CX 2510. The manual states to change the hydraulic oil at 400 hrs. Does anyone recommend changing that oil sooner from their past experience, or will hydraulic oil remain stable for 400 hrs with regular filter changes ? Thanks for reading.

Sonny101

Follow the recommendation of the manufacturer. Intervals for changing hydraulic oil varies widely and is machine-specific and fluid-specific. In general hydraulic oil used in hydrostatic drives or other hydraulic motors has a shorter drain interval than hydraulic oil used in other equipment. The manufacturer of my tractor recommends changing the filter after the first 100 hours and then every 250 hours after that, and changing the oil at 1200 hours. I can't remember anybody I know ever changing the hydraulic oil early unless it got water in it or otherwise looked/smelled unusual.

About a pint of hydraulic fluid comes out of the filter when it gets changed on my tractor, and once the filter is off, no more fluid comes out. I use multiple 5 gallon buckets to change hydraulic oil, most of the buckets previously held new hydraulic fluid. It is not terribly messy to do this as long as you are not horribly slow in moving buckets when one fills up.

 

[Robin Veerman]

You guys talk about hydraulic oil and need to call it transmission/hydraulic oil if it’s oil for an HST tractor. Using hydraulic oil (not the correct oil) in an HST tractor will get extremely expensive quickly…

 

[mo1]

Most tractors except for some of the very first ones to have hydraulics use the same fluid in the transmission and the hydraulic circuits. Even on a gear transmission unit this hydraulic fluid is used in several other expensive parts, such as wet clutch packs, wet brakes, the power steering system, electrohydraulic actuators, and in larger units a very expensive destroking closed-center hydraulic pump. Calling it "hydraulic fluid" is much easier than calling it "transmission/hydraulic/power steering/wet clutch/wet brake/electrohydraulic actuator fluid." Yes, it is important to use the correct fluid for the application and there are multiple different fluids out there, some of which can work in a specific machine, others can cause damage.

 

[Robin Veerman]

I’m afraid you’ve lost me. There’s hydraulic oil or transmission/hydraulic oil. They are not the same. It’s not of ANY importance to have an easy name, but of the UTMOST importance to ask for the correct oil for an hydraulic application or transmission/hydraulic application. Don’t lead equipment owners astray!!