boom sprayer question

[nancyk]

I am in the market(again) for a larger boom sprayer to replace the one my husband made 25 years ago. It is a 25 gallon tank that he affixed to a a carry-all(3 pt hitch for a tractor) and rigged up a 5 foot wide boom, with a shut-off so you can spray half-wide. It is connected to an off-on switch to be used from the drivers seat and is powered by the plug-in on the back of the tractor. Ideally the width would be 10 feet, with folding boom and adjustable width of spray pattern that could be adjusted from the drivers seat(currently have to stop the tractor, manually turn a valve, then do the same when you want a different spray pattern). Have seen a discussion of a pto powered sprayer, can someone explain that, and should I be considering getting a pto powered spray system? Thanx. I did not mention that I am only spraying gravel drive/farm roads and glyphosate. Each time I usually spray 2 tanks, one if I am lucky. The tank is rinsed out well after each use and clean water flushed through the nozzles.

Nancy

 

[5030]

I use a Fimco 275 gallon 3 point mount sprayer with a 7 roller pto driven pump myself. I run a stainless pump because of what I spray. Good trouble free spry rig so long as you clean it out after using it and put in RV antifreeze in the winter so stuff don't freeze. I use dawn dishwash detergent and water to flush mine out. Much less than the commercial tank wash and does as good of a job.

 

[jaxs]

Pto pump is overkill for your need. Look at Northern Tool's catalog for complete rigs that fit you need perfectly. I'm not sure what you are talking about changing spray pattern but if you don't find what you need in Hypro's catalog,it doesn't exist.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Pto pump is overkill for your need. Look at Northern Tool's catalog for complete rigs that fit you need perfectly. I'm not sure what you are talking about changing spray pattern but if you don't find what you need in Hypro's catalog,it doesn't exist.

2x on this one. If op is only spraying 2tanks (50) gallons a year pto will work perfectly but at a very high cost / gal sprayed.

 

[nancyk]

Unfortunately I need to spray the drive/roads/in front of the barn and shed, more than once a year. At least once every two months during the growing season. Sometimes once a month. By changing width of spray pattern, I mean closing off two of the spray nozzles, this was for only when the side of the drive needs spraying.

 

[jaxs]

Unfortunately I need to spray the drive/roads/in front of the barn and shed, more than once a year. At least once every two months during the growing season. Sometimes once a month. By changing width of spray pattern, I mean closing off two of the spray nozzles, this was for only when the side of the drive needs spraying.

Close off two nozzles got it. That's easy with 12 volt controlled valve(s) available several places for various purposes. If turning the same side off everytime rather than left or right,the valve would mount just passed tee on side you want to control. I would suggest a single pole double throw (on-off-on) switch at drivers station. Up sends power to pump and valve turning pump on and opening valve to controlled side. Center position turn all power off stopping pump and closing valve. Down position sends power only to pump turning it on but doesn't send power to valve so it remains closed.
Being able to chose closing either side can be done with another valve and different switch.

 

[nancyk]

This system(homemade years ago) is set up to be powered by a plug in the back of the tractor. I believe it may be called a 7 pin connector plug. Very convenient. When a spraying system says it is 12v, that can be converted to the 7 pin connector plug, correct? Not by me, would have to get a friend to convert it.

 

[BukitCase]

Nancy, I built my DC powered sprayer (also 25 gallon) very similar to yours, initially started to build a "wet" boom but found a 3 section folding "dry" boom when I was looking for parts - The previous suggestions for valving should take care of your switching needs.

I'm 78 and was TEACHING electronics in the military when I was 19, followed by decades of tech jobs - if I were closer I'd just drive there and help, but your friend shouldn't have too much trouble sorting it out - Just in case tho, I suggest you bookmark this link

Viewing a thread - 7 pin connector

From that (with a basic digital meter) should easily check YOUR tractor connector for + and - 12 volts, and hopefully find an appropriate mating connector -

If local sources are limited, I've had good luck at etrailer.com - good luck... Steve

 

[nancyk]

your link was where I got the designation "7 pin connector", I usually refer to that as the "electrical connection plug on the back of the tractor" . I had been looking just at getting a wider(and new) boom for my existing setup. But then all wider booms "require" at least a 2 gpm pump and mine is a tad less. So, looking at pricing for an upgraded pump, it makes sense to get an entire system with new tank et al. I am not looking to save a buck here, I would like to press the "easy button" and get the set-up with the ability to change the width of spray from the drivers seat of the tractor and have an on/off switch at the drivers seat. In looking at different boom sprayer kits, I believe I have found one that would work for this situation, then I see that some are advertised for atv and some for tractor. Yet another variable. I have two people who would do their best to help me with this but as they both have full time jobs and families, I try to not ask them for help except when I truly cannot figure something out(5 years ago, I was moving a log, in the bucket, with our 85 hp Deere w/cab, and got stuck in a precarious situation. I called Travis to come help me out, after getting me out, he looked at me and said "young lady, you need to sell this tractor, you are going to get hurt". He was correct and I sold the tractor). When I get the new system, could we just take the connector off the current set-up and slice it into the new wiring?
I just checked the wiring, the 7 point connector has 2 black wires coming from it. One goes to the drivers off/on switch, the other goes to the pump and the units off/on switch. It looks fairly straightforward to connect all to a new system. So, all I am wanting now is the ability to change the width of the spray pattern from the drivers seat and, as I cannot do that now, I could live with not being able to do that in the future.

 

[BukitCase]

Your description of the wiring sounds to me like BOTH of the black wires may be 12 volts (when the tractor switch is ON) - as in, the tractor switch only INTERRUPTS the 12 volt source - if so, you might still need to find a GROUND - if you have access to a volt meter this could be determined by checking the voltage between the 2 pins of the 7 pin connector that're attached to the black wires - if I'm right, you would still need a ground connection.

If you can post any useful pics it may help (a lot)

If you get a whole new system with a fold-out extra boom, a 12 volt solenoid valve (or two) plumbed into the "extra" spray head(s) and a switch to open/shut those valves should be all you need - I've seen that type valve with barbed connections built in, I used some with my "3-way" boom. Another advantage of going with a new system is the chance to "upgrade" your pump to handle the extra spray heads as you mentioned.

I took my system a bit further and added a separate, switchable 50 foot spring return hose reel and a handheld wand. My pump is just under 4 GPM so I valve off the boom when using the spray wand. Comes in useful for my situation(s)

If you or Travis don't already have an inexpensive digital volt meter, that needs to happen before I'd have any more to offer - my stuff is all well over $100, but unnecessary for this kind of job - even something like this

Amazon.com

would do ANYTHING you might wanna check in the future - or even cheaper, an "automotive voltage tester".

Really need to see some pics... Steve

 

[jaxs]

You've said enough to make it clear you need to just hire or beg someone with experience to set this up for you. Experience having people tell me how to do something based on what a third party said,don't try it. All you need to do is tell your chosen fabricator how you intend using the sprayer then let them make decisions on how that can be accomplished. If you are resolute on doing this with inexperienced hands,for goodness sake cut out the translator (you) and have the assigned person come here to ask questions and get instructions. Educating you so you can educate a third person only fosters frustration and poor outcome.

 

[Aggie66]

Much depends on what you are spraying. Heavy weeds or just sparse weeds that grow in a driveway. Hard to know you situation. Saying that a standard 25 gallon spray rig with a wand should fit your needs and you can put in an UTV or ATV and get it don in half the time as a tractor. But not knowing if you have access to that it’s just a thought. on an ATV or UTV its no issue to get off and shut off a valve as opposed to getting on and off a tractor.

 

[nancyk]

"hire someone with experience to set this up for you" would do that gladly. I must say, I am a quick learner and with information from this forum I am better informed. I do not have an atv, just a tractor.
Steve, attached are pictures of my current spray system.

 

[3gunr]

Fimco makes a 3 pt hitch 45 or 60 gallon spray unit with a folding boom and 12 volt pump,

 

[3gunr]

I would also use 2-4d in with your gly for a much better and longer lasting kill on your weeds

 

[BukitCase]

Thanks for the pics, if we continue I'll need a few more; but first -

JAXS makes a very valid point about cutting out (or better, SHARING with) the middle man - one example might be thinking that 12 volts isn't enough to hurt you - while it's true that MOST people might only feel a slight tingle touching 12 volts AND ground, if you accidentally touch 2 adjacent terminals with the same probe, you just created a dead short - under THOSE conditions, the metal part that's causing the short will become RED HOT in 'way less than a SECOND.

This is because a decent battery that's shorted out will easily put out several HUNDRED amps of current (think "arc welder") - I've known a few mecanics who found out the HARD way why you shouldn't work on electrical stuff wearing your wedding ring, or grab a wrench with bare hands after dropping it across battery terminals, etc -

Don't get me wrong, I'm too stubborn an old SOB to give up; but I do think you need to pick the LEAST un-informed (electrically) friend you have and get them involved before continuing.

The courses I used to teach in the military were typically 20 weeks long, with the first 6 weeks devoted to basic circuitry and component identification - if you passed that phase, the entire REST of the course was classified top secret/crypto (the highest classification in the military) - if you hadn't been vetted for that classification then you better be able to either drive a truck or cook - no exceptions -

I only bring that up 'cause either you and/or your helper need to understand basic circuits or this is gonna be one of the longest threads ever (see previous part about "too stubborn an old SOB to give up")

This might be a good "intro", there's also the Kahn Academy site under Science but it can get pretty deep

Learn Electronics With These 10 Simple Steps

Do you want to learn to build your own things with electronics? With this learn electronics checklist you'll see the exact steps I recommend.

www.build-electronic-circuits.com

Buckle up... Steve

 

[nancyk]

Thanx for your thoughts on the battery et al. The gate-opener I have is operated by a battery,solar-powered. A few years ago the battery stopped accepting a charge from the panel. I even had a gate-man come out(he looked at other parts of the gate-opener), he suggested I clean off the panel, tho I doubted that was the problem It was not the problem. The solution was to get a second battery and now I exchange them every three weeks, and trickle charge the used one. I am very careful, like you mentioned, about not touching both terminals with the wrench. Even now, when taking out the old battery or putting in the new one, sometimes when I put the bolt through the terminal ready to attach the nut, it clicks and I jump. I have fully expected to receive a zap but never have and all is functioning well. And my hayman(full-time electrician) is stopping by soon to put the bar back on my chainsaw, I will fly it by him changing the 12v connection to 7 point connector. I have a feeling I know his answer.
Read up on the Fimco 40 gallon 3 pt sprayer, Tractor Supply near me has one in stock, I thought I would just go and get it. Then I read some reviews, apparently there are some bolts that go through the frame into the tank bottom, causing it to leak. Design flaw. Oh well.