2003 Chevy 1500HD starting issues

[paulsharvey]

Son has a 2003 Chevy 1500HD, 2wd; 6.0L Vortec, that recently has had some starting issues. Started as sometimes; it would fire once and immediately die; do that 3 or 4 times; starts up and runs. He says once it's running, never had it die. Now, some times it does the same; some times he gets just a click and nothing. Some times it cranks right up. No codes (cheap reader, but also no CEL) Battery is tested good. My instinct is bad or loose ground somewhere. Any thoughts? Did some quick googling; but most stuff on there seems to be about an anti-theft system; and I wouldn't think that would explain the fire once and die?

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Son has a 2003 Chevy 1500HD, 2wd; 6.0L Vortec, that recently has had some starting issues. Started as sometimes; it would fire once and immediately die; do that 3 or 4 times; starts up and runs. He says once it's running, never had it die. Now, some times it does the same; some times he gets just a click and nothing. Some times it cranks right up. No codes (cheap reader, but also no CEL) Battery is tested good. My instinct is bad or loose ground somewhere. Any thoughts? Did some quick googling; but most stuff on there seems to be about an anti-theft system; and I wouldn't think that would explain the fire once and die?

I'm not a GM guy, but I have worked places and kept fleets up. That one may have delay start. There is a small relay, I'm thinking under the hood, that will cause that problem. A little spray lube in the ignition is always good. Puts off changing the ignition. See if it has delay start. You can change that relay out with another relay in the box. Just to see if that's it. Should buy another if that's the problem. I'm not sure if it is in the cab fuse box or the engine compartment fuse box. Colors of relays is important too. Gray and black are for specific duties. In fact, in this day and age, take a pic before swapping relays.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Also if it has a tach, does it move on a crank, no start ? I'd replace cam sensor and crank sensors anyway, and I'd keep the old sensors for future diagnosis of problems.
Fuel pump relay could be. Relay bypasses crank sensor until engine is running. But, if relay isn't working, fuel pump isn't working.

Ground on alternator.

Could be solenoid on starter. Don't really sound like it.

 

[paulsharvey]

I will check with him after work tomorrow. I appreciate the ideas. I hate 12v vehicle wiring;

 

[super55]

Working with two separate issues:

1. Start and stall- Almost 100% certain it's the fuel pressure regulator. My 2000 5.3 had an intermittent similar problem and it solved it. It also never put up a code or check engine.

2. Could be a ground but really sounds like it's the starter solenoid. The click your hearing is the solenoid closing. Sounds like it is worn and sometimes failing and not letting the higher amperage get to the starter motor. The solenoid is right on the starter so it will likely have to be a starter replacement but you should be able to get a core charge for the old starter at any parts store.

 

[tacticalturnip]

My first thought was starter solenoid; two of the four GM's I owned from that era went through that, including the 1500HD.

 

[nyone]

What's the fuel pressure show on the live data on your cheap scanner?

 

[paulsharvey]

The scanner apparently didnt show fuel pressure. The positive battery cable had a ghetto repair end, so we slathered copper anitseeze on it. Boy stripped the screw in terminal out in battery too, so that was a $120 lesson on stainless steel bolt vs lead threads. He said that since new battery, the starting is 100%.

Last night, he mentions; something wrong with brakes, peddle goes all the way to floor before stopping... I check brake fluid (checked 2 weeks ago, good), nearly empty. Start looking for broken line (he admitted he was driving around in woods, so figured he snagged a line). Nope, drivers rear rotor and pad in pics. So little pad/rotor left the caliper pistons extended out so much it dumped the brake fluid.

 

[paulsharvey]

Got breaks replaced. New rotor, calipers, and pads. Passenger side rear wheel seal is also leaving, but that's a job for another day. Explained to the boy, it could have been a $60 brake pad job, instead of a $400 whole ordeal, if he had paid attention...

Probably could have skipped the calipers; but one side getting hyper extended, if I figured I'd error on the safe side. Probably could have just got seals/pistons in a rebuild kit for 1/3rd the money, and a bit of hassle, but decided to just buy new (remanufactured).

Autozone sold me the wrong pads, so while I was at work, had boy go and get right pads; they sold him the wrong ones again. Stopped on way home, and this Autozone asked "dual piston or single"; dual; so we got right pads. Didn't realize a 1500HD could come with single piston calipers...

 

[paulsharvey]

Working with two separate issues:

1. Start and stall- Almost 100% certain it's the fuel pressure regulator. My 2000 5.3 had an intermittent similar problem and it solved it. It also never put up a code or check engine.

2. Could be a ground but really sounds like it's the starter solenoid. The click your hearing is the solenoid closing. Sounds like it is worn and sometimes failing and not letting the higher amperage get to the starter motor. The solenoid is right on the starter so it will likely have to be a starter replacement but you should be able to get a core charge for the old starter at any parts store.

He hasn't had the start and die problem again, but he did just get a Knock Sensor code. Coincidence or related? I think any pending codes were being wiped when battery terminals would lose contact.

 

[nyone]

A 8lug 1500..is that part of the reason why it turned into a $400 brake job?

 

[paulsharvey]

A 8lug 1500..is that part of the reason why it turned into a $400 brake job?

Rotors were toast, calipers probably could have been rebuilt, but just got remanuf ones. At $110/caliper, rotors at around $90, and $55 for pads. Got $40 back per caliper for cores. Apparently 1500HDs had two different set ups, dual piston, and single... GM had some weird stuff during this time, 1500, 1500HD, 2500, 2500HD, hi out put duramax, low out out duramax, heck, even saw a 2WD 2500 crew w/ 5 ft bed (bought in Mex, so not sure if it was offered in US).

 

[paulsharvey]

So, somewhat of an update on the truck in general. It needs pretty much an entire front suspension, alignment, knock sensor, window regulator, and front tires. Told son the other night, you've worn out the front tires in 6 months, you have to do something. Came up with a plan, ill co-sign a $1500-2000 signature loan for him at credit union, he will ise that to get suspension and tires; and put it up for sale. He loves the truck, but 11mph is killing him. He spends approx $600-700 on gas alone per month, and he's just driving to work/school/girlfriends/cause trouble; not towing or hauling. Use the money from the sale to get Dakota/Ranger/Colorado/1500, something that gets atleast 15-18 mpg, hopefully an extended cab 4x4.

He did throw an oddball at me, he found a guy who might be willing to even trade a 1999 corvette for the truck, once it's all repaired. I personally can't stand corvettes, but I'm trying to guide/push him, not drag him around by the nose...

 

[goeduck]

How many miles? I picked up a "free" 2003 2500HD that had been sitting for 7 years without being run and it had less problems than you describe. MPG is about the same, but mine has the 8.1L.

 

[paulsharvey]

I believe it's got 150k or so; very low miles, especially for a 20 year old truck. Don't know the whole background on it for 100%; but we know he is 3rd or possibly 4th owner. My Mothern in Law bought the truck, had some repairs done, but could not get used to driving a crew cab, regular bed pick up. She has always driven small cars/small SUVs forever. So, she traded my son this truck for the 2012 Dodge Durango we had handed him down, which had more miles, and some minor bumper damage for a deer hit. She had put a fair bit on money into some minor repairs, but that cause she hired a guy to do even the most simple stuff. I think she paid like $1200 for 2 front wheel bearings, a water pump, front break pads, and an oil change, extremely easy stuff...

MiL bought it from an older lady after her husband died; so I think it probably had sat for a while between death and sale; maybe just a few months, maybe a year or more; and judging on the cold (hot) air intake, chrome gas cap, after market radio with crazy ground that produces alternator buzz, a kid owned it before the old man.

If it wasn't for the poor milage of the 6.0L, everything could be fixed with either a fair bit of time and about $1000; or more money and less time... He had a quote for front suspension work with alignment, and brakes, at like $1200. Now, the brakes are done; looks like parts for front end would be approx $500; plus atleast $120 for yhe alignment even if we did the work; doing it ourselves would only save maybe $400; and I'll admit, I've never changed Pittman arms, upper-lower control arms, ect; so it would take time, YouTube, and cussing to get it done.

The knock sensor, doesn't seem bad or expensive to do your self; but looks like it would be pretty high labor charge for a stupid cheap part, if you took it somewhere.

Window regulator, is kinda annoying, but not expensive, and probably, what, a 3 out of 10 mechanical ability, somewhere north of oil change and wiper blades, but below break pads, or water pump.