OEM or copy brand

[tstex]

Hello to all

I am having to upgrade my electrical service at ranch. Need a Siemens double pole 125amp cir breaker (Q2125) bc the service panel the POCO is installing is a Siemens panel: SNW0816B1200T

I’ve enclosed an Amazon link that has the Q2125 I need. Home Depot has the same Q2125 for $106, an electrical supply store for $156, but the ones (see black breakers Q2125 for $49 & $55) on Amazon are much less. Are the ones on Amazon knockoffs are OEM? If latter, how can these be that much cheaper?

Thank you very much for your comments.

Amazon.com : q2125

 

[rScotty]

On anything electrical, I look at the description to see if it is certified to meet UL and/or CSA safety and manufacturng specs. as certified by a standards lab in either US or Canada. If so, the product then can advertise that fact and will have either UL or CSA or both symbols on it.

I don't use a product that isn't UL or CSA certifed - and doubt it would pass inspection.

 

[tstex]

Thank you Scott, appreciate it

This one is UL advertise. Cannot see CSA on my phone

 

[Eagle1]

May just be that seller is not looking for 100%+ profit margin. Looks like the 49 version comes from a licensed electrical contractor
Electrician Tucson | Arizona Electrical Solutions LLC

More and more I find the big box store over priced compared to shopping on-line, YMMV

 

[tstex]

Thank you very much Eagle, appreciate it.

Note, the 125amp breaker is going to be the one that powers my homes 100amp main panel. I’m not the kind to nickel & dime critical components, but w long runs of copper wire, this is costing me. I want to be both prudent w funds but also wise w parts.

I appreciate the forum members here and value your real life experiences / best, tstex

 

[rScotty]

May just be that seller is not looking for 100%+ profit margin. Looks like the 49 version comes from a licensed electrical contractor
Electrician Tucson | Arizona Electrical Solutions LLC

More and more I find the big box store over priced compared to shopping on-line, YMMV

Yes. Good point. My blanket UL/CSA recommendation to the OP is unfair to some smaller manufacturers competing on price.
But if that advice isn't the best price, it certainly isn't wrong technically. We have to make a decision on some criteria and UL/CSA are simply the best. That's fair; without certification, how is anyone to know what they are getting?

Also I have no idea of the OP's level of electrical knowledge. It might be that he values price enough to be willing and able to argue with inspectors or insurance guys.
I don't like doing that, but he might.
It sounds like you might be able to do that successfully... but even so, I doubt most can.
rScotty

BTW, I did check for him. Tthe one he posted a linked to does have a spec sheet and is apparently a Siemens, UL rated for 125 amps.

 

[grsthegreat]

they make 10KA and 22KA versions of these. a 10KA is all you need for residential. there about $100 at my electrical wholesale house.

im surprised that there 1/2 that on amazon, but my only fear is it might be a Chinese knockoff.

 

[LouNY]

The AIC rating will effect the pricing considerably.

Electrical Circuit Breakers
"Ampere Interrupting Capacity (AIC)
Circuit breakers are tested and then rated as to their ability to open the protected circuit with a specific amount of current flowing in the circuit. Circuit breakers typically have AIC ratings of between 5,000 and 200,000 AIC. The amount of fault current available must not exceed the breaker’s ability to safely open the circuit. Not only must the breaker be rated for the applied voltage, and continuous amperage load; it must also have an AIC rating equal to or greater than the available current at the location in the circuit where it will be installed. Breakers that have been installed so that the available fault current exceeds its AIC rating may blow up, just like a bomb would explode were it to attempt to clear a fault current above its rating. When opening a faulted circuit, it is possible for smoke and fire to be exhausted from a breaker. If you would like to see a breaker belch fire and smoke, see if you can locate and view the Cooper-Bussmann fuse company videotape titled “Specification Grade Protection”. The visual impact of this tape will likely enhance your appreciation of the importance of an electrical device’s AIC rating far better than any words of mine.

In your safety classes, you likely have received training in the step to the side routine before manually switching electrical circuits, and this videotape will reinforce the value of this easy safety step. This is also a good reason why sheet metal covers called dead front trim should be re-installed on loadcenters, panelboards, and the like before operating switching devices.

Electrical engineers tell us that the two major factors that govern the amount of fault current that can be delivered in a system are the KVA rating of the transformer and the impedance of the transformer. The presence of connected electric motors in the circuit also adds to the amount of potential fault current. Considering 480 volt systems, combined transformer and motor fault currents can range from 14,400 amps for a 500 KVA transformer with an impedance of 5.0% to some 90,000 amps for a 3500 KVA transformer with 5.75% impedance. Selecting all circuit breakers for higher AIC ratings may be the safety first and cost last method."

Edited to add; my meterbase is a 200 amp Siemens using a 22KA 200 Amp breaker

 

[kf4uda]

If you get the breaker from Amazon shown in the pictures then you have a good deal. All of the pictures and spec sheet match the ones from Home Depot.

 

[LouNY]

The pictured one seems to be rated for 10KA AIC.
Your installation may require a higher rating depending on several factors,
if it is the first breaker off the utilities transformer they can advise you of the AIC needed.
My meterbase with it's breaker disconnect was required by the Electrical Inspector to be 22 KA rated
as it is the first and only disconnect on the secondary side of the utilities transformer.
My home and shop panels only need the 10 KA rating as the disconnect is protecting them.

 

[tstex]

Thank you to all for your replies.

This is a rural house w “no inspections or codes” per se, but I’ve always been a code + person and nothing less.

The Power COOP is forcing me to change out my current 30 yr old meter loop/panel and overhead run from meter loop weatherhead to my homes weatherhead. I am having to run everything undergrd now.

I’ve installed many sub panels and probably run 200-300ft of various electrical circuits over the yrs and never had an issue one time. I’ve had them inspected by electricians and all said “very well done”. I have all of my project plans and material lists reviewed prior by electricians.

The POCO is replacing my meterloop pole and current 100amp pantl and installing a new 200amp panel. They are not allowing any overhead runs so I’m digging a 70ft trench 30” deep running two # 2 copper & one #4 copper. The panel is a Siemens SNW0816B1200T w a 200amp main cutoff. I have multiple daughters in college and upgrading the current 100amp panel on my house is not in the immediate budget. Once the COOP does their part, I’ll have the trench Pre dug minus 4 ft from the new meter loop pole to be. I’ll have all my wire and 2” gray sch 40 PVC ready to go. I’ll turn off the 200amp main breaker on the new panel at meter loop, test bus w multimeter to make sure it’s non energized, then connect Siemens 125 amp c-breaker in top of bus, torque the copper wire to spec & plug in the 125am breaker. Since this 125amp breaker is so critical, it needs to both work and last. I might just buy 2 and return one of them after all is good.

To conclude, price isn’t everything, but an extra $100 or $50 bucks helps on the bottom line at this time. Saving about $3000 by doing this myself w a few engr friends help.

Thanks again

 

[Midniteoyl]

Hello to all

I am having to upgrade my electrical service at ranch. Need a Siemens double pole 125amp cir breaker (Q2125) bc the service panel the POCO is installing is a Siemens panel: SNW0816B1200T

I’ve enclosed an Amazon link that has the Q2125 I need. Home Depot has the same Q2125 for $106, an electrical supply store for $156, but the ones (see black breakers Q2125 for $49 & $55) on Amazon are much less. Are the ones on Amazon knockoffs are OEM? If latter, how can these be that much cheaper?

Thank you very much for your comments.

Amazon.com : q2125

Looking at the Q&A for the $48 dollar one shows a lot of electrical supply houses, and one listed as a Manufacturer, saying this is a Siemens. There is also a Seimens pdf listed with the specs. If it comes in as something different, just return it as not being as advertised. But i believe it would be the real deal.

 

[tstex]

One thing to note. Once the power COOP makes the change out, I have no power to freezer / refrigerator until I install the Siemens 125amp breaker and flip the switch. There is no returning it snd get another one bc that will take days while all my food goes bad. That’s why I might order 2. Does this change anyones perspective?

 

[Midniteoyl]

Nope..

Does this change anyones perspective?

Nope.

edit: Use the Frozen Water jug trick to increase the amount of thermal mass in the fridge and freezer and increase your working time.

 

[caver]

Knockoff products are out there for sure but I see similar pricing on ebay for the same breaker.

 

[tstex]

Thanks again guys...ordered 2 of them...I'll be ready for my 3/29 install date...I'll post some pics final installation....best, tstex

 

[jfsawatzky]

Knockoff products are out there for sure but I see similar pricing on ebay for the same breaker.

Some of those knock offs could even have fake certifications. As long as you buy from a reputable seller you should be ok but there is no guarantee you are buying an authentic product. In some cases, legitimate distributors have been fooled into selling knock offs.

 

[grsthegreat]

i still remember buying new, branded remmington electric razor replacement blades for my razor. Looked EXACTLY like originals, packaging even exact. bought on Amazon for about 1/2 the cost of them thru actual brick and mortar store. they ripped hairs out of face. sent back and got refund. purchased at wallgreens, those worked smooth as silk.

stupid Chinese ripoffs.

 

[tstex]

I agree that knock-offs can infiltrate even the best of distributors. The real key, IMHO, is determining a baseline cost the manufacturer sets, then you can determine if the selling price is way off or not. The electrical supply house wants $156.00 for the Q2125. That's far an above beyond anything else I have seen.

 

[grsthegreat]

I agree that knock-offs can infiltrate even the best of distributors. The real key, IMHO, is determining a baseline cost the manufacturer sets, then you can determine if the selling price is way off or not. The electrical supply house wants $156.00 for the Q2125. That's far an above beyond anything else I have seen.

Supply houses have homeowner costs…
and contractor costs.