What kind of box blade did I just buy?

[scootr]

Gannon had a model called "Landscaper" which might be what it says on the side plate.




View attachment 786897

Bingo. I think you got it. Landscaper

 

[Vigo327]

These decisions are nowhere near as bad as i was expecting.. Looks like one of the best possibly 6ft blades you could get for the money short of some 1 in a 1000 type deal, and like you said, better not to hold your breath for that kind of thing when you actually have work to do.

Your 8n should be ok with that, although if you get it absolutey full of dirt it may have a hard time lifting it to drop it out. Ive never used one but im under the impression 8n 3pt lift ability is a real crapshoot because the condition of the hydraulics can be anywhere from 100% to 1%.

Ive never used draft control but i am curious whether it is effective with ripper shanks on a box blade. I can pull my little 4wd Kubota to a halt with the 5 rippers on my 60” blade if i let them go to deep. Usually if they are digging somewhat shallow things are fine.

You say youve got a lathe, that’s great. If you also have a large drill press or a mag drill you should be able to make just about any 6ft chunk fit that rear blade mount. If you dont really plan to ‘cut’ in reverse it probably doesnt need to be a real blade, as its generaly just used for pushing loose dirt, or smoothing. But changing the top link setting is what determines what the blades do, so you may want to start scheming on a power top link setup.

I put a small 12v electro-hydraulic cylinder on my small kubota and control it with a large 6 terminal switch. It’s a bit too small for your application but you could pull hydraulics from your test port and install a regular valve, or even a standalone 12v ‘power pack’, etc. Just fun thoughts for now, but dont go use someone elses vox blade with a power top link or they’ll turn into NEEDS

 

[dodge man]

I’d say that’s the going price for this area also. I’ve been looking casually for a used one for a year now. I saw a used one on Facebook Market Place that had similar tabs on the back like yours. I don’t know what they were for though.

 

[2manyrocks]

Having the rear most blade would stiffen the front blade. If you could get one for $75, I'd say do it. Then you've got a pretty dang good box blade.

 

[BadDecisions]

Got the bushings turned and welded in..I know the welds are less than pretty..I was right at the end of the MIG hose, and I couldn't get the welder closer (it's a massive ancient Lincoln)

I might have made a bit of a boo-boo buying that cutting edge locally. Apparently they were surplus CAT blades from the state, and while the bolt pattern matches, the holes are drilled closer to one side, and I'm pretty sure this is sitting way too high. If I flip it, it will be way too low...I think. I know that's not the correct bolts, but no one had plow bolts locally, so I shoved in some hex bolts I had on hand. That said, are plow bolts absolutely required for this? I don't have a good way to make the square hole if I redrill this, and I suspect taking it to a machine shop will cost more than buying another blade. I'm hesitant to weld it in in case I ever do need to replace it again...

 

[2manyrocks]

Someone else is bound to have a better suggestion how to do this, but I think you want to end up with the blade in the right position. Plow bolts would be less likely to hang up and would shed dirt better. My initial reaction to welding is I wouldn't get too hung up about it because I doubt you will ever use that blade enough to wear it out.

The cutting edge should be in the down position which will put the bolt holes up top. That blade is hardened to take the abuse of grading dirt. Would be a bear to re-drill. I'd lean towards trying to find a way to weld it in the correct position unless you can find the OEM replacement blade at a decent price.

If someone has another way of solving this problem, please post it.

 

[BadDecisions]

It's not so much a concern of wearing it out as it is one of if I bend it, crack it, etc. Welding it in is easy...cutting it back out later if the need arises would then be a heck of a not fun time, unless I just don't weld it at all on the bottom/backside, and I suspect that's where it really needs to be tied in. Though it would be just my luck that despite measuring and checking a dozen times, I'd still manage to somehow weld it in crooked, lol.

All the other cutting edges I've seen have the holes drilled right down the center, and it didn't even occur to me that this one was different until I got it home. I'm assuming that the rear cutting edge would likely match the front one, so assuming I got one of the same dimensions, I'd be ok.

 

[bcp]

That's a road grader cutting edge, with the offset holes. They only use one edge, then replace it. Ag implements usually have the holes centered for a reversible edge.

Motor Grader Blades | Aftermarket Caterpillar® Parts

| Boron CTP Motor Grader Blades manufactured from Boron Steel Alloy are heat treated and tempered to exact specifications to ensure the best combination of wear and impact resistance.

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I would just make new holes in the center of the blade, use hex bolts, and not worry about dirt buildup around the bolt heads.

Bruce

 

[MTGreen]

How much does that thing weigh? I've got a 6 ft Gannon made by Woods with rippers looks very similar that weighs around 1300-1400 lb that I use behind a cat2 5500lb ballasted tractor + 2000lb loader. I'm wondering if a 2400 lb 8n is really going to pick up and pull that in a satisfactory way?

 

[2manyrocks]

There are some replacement Gannon box blades on Amazon or try contacting a woods dealer. Messicks also has box blade parts diagrams on their website. Search Results