LK 3054 clutch replacement

[TapRackFire]

In the process of replacing the clutch in my LK 3054. The hour meter reads 430.0. My buddy gave it to me because it would lose forward power while going up hill and he is not a mechanic. When i got it, the situation got even worse and the tractor got to the point where it could not move while in any gear, even on a flat service. The tractor is in half and i removed the two stage clutch assembly. Found the drive clutch was gone and had glazed the pressure plate. The PTO clutch looked ok but the flywheel was also glazed with some blue spots from heat. I am having all the necessary surfaces turned to remove any glazing and installing new clutches for the drive and PTO.

I have the part number for the throw-out bearing and will source it locally. The transmission seal and the rear main were not leaking, but I would think I need to replace them while I've got it split open. I will also replace the pilot bearing. Does anyone have the part numbers for the rear oil seal and the transmission seal? Also, any links on how to do it? The transmission seal looks pretty straight forward with four bolts to remove located behind the throw-out bearing. The rear main I'm not so sure about.

If you have any advice about the installation of the clutch assembly that could save me a pit fall I would greatly welcome it.

 

[5030]

Actually, you don't 'turn' the facings, you grind them on a Blanchard vertical grinder.

 

[MTGreen]

There are a number of YouTube videos about pulling and replacing rear main seals. Maybe not for your specific tractor but I would look for a video with a seal that looks similar to yours. It needs to go back on there straight so you either need to use a tool made for the job or use the flywheel to press it on then seat it evenly with a mallet and an appropriate tool.

The pilot bearing should be able to be tapped out from the back side when you take the flywheel off. If not there are tools for that or you can try the grease method and a close fitting punch.

Piece of advice about bolting the tractor halves back together is don't use the bolts to draw the tractor together the last inch as it is easy to screw up the splines. Tractor should be able to be rolled together to have the bell housing and engine block meet. You probably will need to play with manually turning the PTO shaft and sticking a screwdriver down in the crack to push the clutch slightly to make sure all of the splines line up

 

[5030]

Not sure why people put so much credence on YT video's. Most are loaded with poor information and bad advice,

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks everyone! 5030 is correct on the videos. Anyone have the part numbers for the two seals I should replace?

 

[MTGreen]

Not sure why people put so much credence on YT video's. Most are loaded with poor information and bad advice,

Certainly agree you can get advice on YouTube that's worth exactly what you paid for it. It's not any different than this forum though as anybody can join and weigh in regardless of qualifications or experience.

However, there are some pearls of wisdom to be had on YouTube just as there are on TBN. A person who has the ability and aptitude to split a tractor will likely have some measure of discretion in sorting the wheat from the chaff with reasonable success.

In addition, where else can somebody go to see this done other than going to tractor tech school or trying to make friends with the local mechanic? I think more input here from many different sides is preferable to guess and check on your own and an additional benefit of YT is you get the picture is worth a thousand words.

Try Western Truck and Tractor repair channel as an example of good info. Professional with his own shop who has been there done that many times and is willing to share

 

[Patches]

Thanks everyone! 5030 is correct on the videos. Anyone have the part numbers for the two seals I should replace?

There are 4 crankshaft seals listed in the parts manual; 19202-0446-1, E5500-04462, E5500-04463, E5500-04464. The 04464 seal is listed for the xs tractors but the manual indicates the seals are interchangeable? although there are some serial number breaks, but unlisted. The transmission input shaft seal number is 09503-86211 and the only number listed for all 3054's. I would use the tractor serial # when ordering the crank seal

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks patches. I'm going to put this thing back together tomorrow. I need to know some of the torque values for the four bolts on the input shaft to the transmission, the flywheel bolts and the bolts holding dual stage clutch assembly together.

 

[ddbackhoe]

Thanks patches. I'm going to put this thing back together tomorrow. I need to know some of the torque values for the four bolts on the input shaft to the transmission, the flywheel bolts and the bolts holding dual stage clutch assembly together.

If you cant find their recommended values, here is a generic chart. Good luck

Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt

Torque values for various grades and diameters of fasteners.

www.portlandbolt.com

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks DD!!!!

 

[Patches]

Thanks patches. I'm going to put this thing back together tomorrow. I need to know some of the torque values for the four bolts on the input shaft to the transmission, the flywheel bolts and the bolts holding dual stage clutch assembly together.

Torque for the flywheel bolts (M12) is 72 - 79 lb/ft. The torque value for the (4 M10) bolts for the cover retaining the oil seal is 41lb/ft;{ this seems excessive to me but that is what my manual says.} I cannot find any torque values for the clutch assembly.???

 

[Username Taken]

Not sure why people put so much credence on YT video's. Most are loaded with poor information and bad advice,

YT has helped me in the past with things that are obvious to professionals but not to amateurs like me. YT has also helped me with directions translated from Chinese to Slobovian to Japanese then to Korean and back to English...... By a Persian-speaking college kid.

"Of course, you have to flip the frabbersnat over and turn the reltney 180 degrees then insert it and rotate it counter-clockwise to get it to install correctly. Everybody knows that!"

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I got it all back together and it works great. Hardest part was ensuring both halves of the tractor were sitting at the correct angle while pushing and pulling the halves together. Used a couple of ratchet straps on each side of the tractor to close that last inch. Nothing to terribly tight. Just used the straps to nudge the halves together. I need to find the two side panels that fit under the hood and a front grill to keep the battery from falling out the front.

Now on to rebuilding the leaking hydraulic cylinders on the FEL. Any suggestions on where to buy the seal kit for a KL 128 FEL? Anyone else completed this task?

 

[Oaktree]

Now on to rebuilding the leaking hydraulic cylinders on the FEL. Any suggestions on where to buy the seal kit for a KL 128 FEL? Anyone else completed this task?

I had to have one of the cylinders rebuilt on my FEL, I just got the kit from the dealer. Surprisingly, they had the best price.