Is the Kubota L2501 the largest 25 hp, non regen tractor?

[deezler]

Wow I just looked up the Branson 2515 specs again to see that it's 3-pt hitch is rated for 3300 lbs. Thats insane. So a 3000lb bare tractor + 1000 lb loader + 3000 lbs on the 3-pt can lift 2000+ lbs with the loader? So you can be pushing over 9000 lbs when fully loaded and operating... with 24 horsepower. Sounds like a recipe for success, lol.

 

[LD1]

Wow I just looked up the Branson 2515 specs again to see that it's 3-pt hitch is rated for 3300 lbs. Thats insane. So a 3000lb bare tractor + 1000 lb loader + 3000 lbs on the 3-pt can lift 2000+ lbs with the loader? So you can be pushing over 9000 lbs when fully loaded and operating... with 24 horsepower. Sounds like a recipe for success, lol.

Yup, The little 2900# and 24hp branson can lift more on both the loader and the 3PH than the 50hp 4-series deere and MX kubotas That are both 1000lbs heavier and 10" longer. Thats 100% believable right?

Kinda remindes me of an argument I had with a coworker one time. He had a little speeco/huskee logsplitter with a 6.5hp engine and 11gpm pump. Their "22" ton version with 4" cylinder. He wanted more power and speed. Tried to tell him that bigger pump would get more speed but bigger cylinder was needed for more power. He swore that all he had to do was put a 10-12hp motor on it to double the splitters power . Tried to tell him it would just be a waste, cause without a bigger pump that HP wasnt gonna increase anything other than fuel consumption. I ended up moving on from that job so I dont know what he ever ended up doing.

 

[RalphVa]

The B2601 is 25.5 hp, about 1 hp more than the L2501.

 

[blmerrill]

Have you looked at the Kubota LX2610?

 

[LD1]

Have you looked at the Kubota LX2610?

The guy is wanting a bigger and heavier tractor than the L2501 and you suggest a rebadged B-series that smaller?

 

[NoTrespassing]

I thinki you mean you are looking for something prior to Tier 4 Final (2007 to 2013 roughly). Your Tier 3 only applied to engines over 100 hp.

You would be OK with anything Tier 1, Tier 2, or "Tier 4 Interim" for your 30 to 50 hp tractors. ALL manufacturers had changed to Tier 4 Final - which means DPF and full computer emissions systems by 2015 because that was the deadline. MOST made the change in 2013.

If you want a completely mechanical old style diesel to last a lifetime, you'll have to go pre 2007. But the 2007 to 2013 Tier 4 Interim machinses are not a bad compromise. They will work and run at idle, and have individual cylinder mechanical injection and EGR instead of DPF systems.

Don't worry about 3 vs 4 cylinder engines. Both have been around a long time and both are fine.

rScotty

I'm just glad my 1999 L3710 with 800+ hours keeps chugging along.

 

[Rdrcr]

Have you looked at the Kubota LX2610?

OP is looking for the Heaviest 25HP tractor.

The B/LX is not heavier than the standard L series tractors.

Mike

 

[4570Man]

I agree. I think its just a marketing thing though. How much of that loader capacity is actually usable?

You could put a loader rated for 5000# lift on one of these tractors.....doesnt mean you are ever gonna be able to lift that much. But they do it for people that only compare paper specs.

I used to have a L3400....which is same basic machine as the 2501. And even with its "weak" loader.....It still took loaded tires and either 1000# in a weight box or 700 pound implement (that sticks back farther) just to keep the rear end on the ground. So any additional loader capacity cannot be utilized unless you add alot more weight than that out back.

Heck, I have a MX, which is 1000 pounds heavier than the branson and 10" longer wheel base. And the branson loader is rated to lift just as much . I have loaded tires (~700lbs), cast wheel weights (~600lbs), and unless I have something 1000 pounds or heavier out back, the loader will lift the rear.

Couldnt imagine this loader on a 10" shorter machine thats 1000# lighter. But hey.....it looks better on paper right? To but big cylinders on a loader even though it cannot utilize the extra capacity and just makes it operate slower.

I feel the same way. My L3800 even with loaded tires and a box blade on the back it still tips forward. Maybe on perfectly level ground with the load perfectly centered you could lift more than the hydraulic relief would allow but overall the loader is a good match for the machine. The same weight machine isn’t going to do 50-75 percent more work. If you need more capacity you need a bigger tractor is all there is to it.

 

[Vigo327]

Not totally disagreeing with any of that but if either of my loader tractors had 50% more loader capacity AND 50% more breakout force, i'd rarely notice the weight capacity increase but i would appreciate the breakout force constantly!

 

[LD1]

Not totally disagreeing with any of that but if either of my loader tractors had 50% more loader capacity AND 50% more breakout force, i'd rarely notice the weight capacity increase but i would appreciate the breakout force constantly!

Breakout force is just the lift capacity at ground level. Which is always significantly more than max height due to loader geometry and the angle of the cylinders.

Don't confuse it with rollback/curl power...which is much less publicized

 

[ning]

Is the Branson 3620 similar to the previous 3520 that you can trivially delete the DPF?

My 3520h still has the DPF (~600 hours); I like the lack of stink and despite often using it well below green throttle the DPF warning only occasionally blinks and then I run it extra hard for a few minutes and it goes back to no blink.

 

[rScotty]

Not totally disagreeing with any of that but if either of my loader tractors had 50% more loader capacity AND 50% more breakout force, i'd rarely notice the weight capacity increase but i would appreciate the breakout force constantly!

The trouble with that is tractors over-loaded on the front can break in half even if counter-balanced on the back end.
Or some put a backhoe on the back and pick up a bucket full of dirt with the FEL for a counterweight. Either way can break it in half.

There's a thread going on right now about "bad news" and a TC33D that broke across the mid casting.
It's common to many makes that use designs where castings carry bending stress. There's a long history of similar threads.
rScotty

​

 

[Torvy]

The trouble with that is tractors over-loaded on the front can break in half even if counter-balanced on the back end.
Or some put a backhoe on the back and pick up a bucket full of dirt with the FEL for a counterweight. Either way can break it in half.

There's a thread going on right now about "bad news" and a TC33D that broke across the mid casting.
It's common to many makes that use designs where castings carry bending stress. There's a long history of similar threads.
rScotty

​

That is precisely the reason to get the heavier tractor with more capability. You may never need to match the maximum numbers, but your day to day use is not going to stress the machine as much. Most of us don't weigh a load before we pick it up. We use experience and experimentation to eyeball it. I would much rather have more capacity than I need than an overpriced, underpowered machine that is impressive to my neighbors because of the paint and the badging.

 

[Jstpssng]

I asked before if the reason he's limiting himself to 25 HP is to get around the emissions. The OP never answered yet I will stand behind my previous suggestion that if lift capacity is a concern, he look at tractors such as the Massey which doesn't regenerate.
To me that's a pretty lame excuse to buy an inadequate tractor anyways.

Edit: the OP hasn't been back since starting this thread... hopefully he will check in again.

 

[RammerJammer]

I have 2 mahindras an older 2810 3 cylinder and a newer 2538 4 cylinder. They both start equally well but the 4 cylinder is so much smoother quieter and just sounds like it has more power, Both tractors are very close in size and weight , but the 2538 has larger tires front and back. There is no comparison though in power the 2538 is way more powerful, and there is no regen on mahindras,

Finally, after 40 posts, 3gunr opens the Mahindra NO REGEN door.

I came across this thread at the 80 posts point and was determined to add the word "Mahindra" to the discussion only if someone hadn't already done so.

However, with all of the thread-hijackers and side-trackers (Regen & Weight: Cylinders? Huh?), it's hardly surprising.

Anyhow, my 6 year-old Tier 4 Mahindra has never seen a drop of DEF (neither have I for that matter) and it doesn't speak regen at all. Which is one reason I bought it.

On top of that, with the loader and backhoe, it weighs over 5,000 pounds. Many Mahindras have lots of cast iron - even the oil pans. If you want heavier and no regen, think red not orange, green or blue.

 

[Jaygyver]

Well, the only thing I’m getting out of this conversation is basically a trolled question conversation? Don’t think the OP came back once to explain his question.

It took me less than 15 minutes on my crappy internet to bring up just 5 different brands and look so I'm not sure what the OP expected from here without expanding on his question.
Asking that, is like asking what brand oil or what oil filter is the best. lol

I’ve had my ’97 JD770 for 24 years now. After renting different ones for my smaller acreage I just chose the one I thought would work for ME. It was a compromise. I wanted a larger one but I needed a smaller one. No real internet back then to really do my homework. When I finally decided to buy one JD just happened to have a sale going.
This late winter I bought a new ’21 LS MT235HE as a retirement present, over kill, yup. And I looked for months at most all the brands, at least the ones within an hour or so away from me.
I had dropped a couple dozen large trees over the last two years and really wanted to get rid of the mess this year for sure.
As far as the exhaust filter, for me, it sucks but is a non issue and I had looked into it. Sooo many don’t have a problem so I just have to find the right oil it likes or the better fuel.

It seems to be a “Catch 22” on the air pollution and fuel usage, I’ve got to be polluting way more with the exhaust filter than without it. Between having to fast idle or use it harder then I need to just to burn it out and having to more often than not manually force it, it takes around 20+ minutes, when it won’t do it automatically. I can live with it, just don't like it.
I guess you can put it in the same electric vehicle debacle.

 

[deezler]

This late winter I bought a new ’21 LS MT235HE as a retirement present, over kill, yup.

It seems to be a “Catch 22” on the air pollution and fuel usage, I’ve got to be polluting way more with the exhaust filter than without it. Between having to fast idle or use it harder then I need to just to burn it out and having to more often than not manually force it, it takes around 20+ minutes, when it won’t do it automatically. I can live with it, just don't like it.

Why.... do you ever have to manually force it?

Wishing you nothing but total success and reliability with your machine, but from my perspective on these forums, LS has the least functional DPF systems out there (see other thread about regens every 4 hours). Odd stuff.

 

[Jaygyver]

Why.... do you ever have to manually force it?

Wishing you nothing but total success and reliability with your machine, but from my perspective on these forums, LS has the least functional DPF systems out there (see other thread about regens every 4 hours). Odd stuff.

I have no idea,
First auto regen when new was 22 hrs, then around 35 or 40 hrs, i think maybe 3 auto gens total before my 50 hr service. I never changed how it drove it. Then maybe got 10 hrs in before it started auto regening every 1 to 2 hrs. The "over full" (can't rember the code right now) warning lite comes on then I have to manually hit the switch for it to do the deep cleaning, which goes to full throttle for around 20 minutes or so, at least a dozen times. I think I have around 150 hrs on it now. Like I said, I don't full throttle it every where I go or at idle (by choice, I still have to get into the habit) so it's probably an oil or fuel quality issue.
When i got the filters the dealer mentioned just using my normal oil I use on the 770 so I'll probably change it to another brand this spring and maybe change where I get my fuel.
I did look into the DPF issues but it seemed to average out across different brands for issues.
I left my first job before the filters hit the semis and when I drove in the Navy shipyard I never had an issue but they did have the DEF so probably different setup. BUT the medium duty flatbeds sucked green peppers. They had the DEF system but we were always having to regen them, the bus's were a joke, we had to take them on a hilly route off the base to burn them out.

 

[deezler]

Shoot, sorry to hear that. Another LS doing very frequent regens.... that's not right.

I regret to share my opinion that engine lube oil selection and diesel fuel source are probably not going to change how it performs for you, unless you had total junk diesel going into your tank.

Hopefully I am wrong about that, for your sake.

 

[jyoutz]

Shoot, sorry to hear that. Another LS doing very frequent regens.... that's not right.

I regret to share my opinion that engine lube oil selection and diesel fuel source are probably not going to change how it performs for you, unless you had total junk diesel going into your tank.

Hopefully I am wrong about that, for your sake.

Interesting. My tractor has about 68 hours on it and no regen yet.