New tractor owner- MF231

[MF231owner]

Bought a MF231 a couple days ago to manage property we bought to build and small scale farm on. I have a little experience operating a New Holland 65 about 20 years ago and have been borrowing a Kubota L2900 the last few weeks but I'm completely new to MF and have only figured out the basics so far. Clutch, gears, drawbar.

So at this point I've run into my first head scratcher. Turn the wheels and the tractor just plows forward making ruts where the front wheels contact the ground. It's been rainy so the wet ground has made it that much worse. Someone a couple months ago posted about the same issue and it was suggested that the rear dif was locked. I tried looking for a picture online to see exactly what that means but didn't have any luck. Anyone with a 231 mind taking a picture of theirs in the position it should be in?

 

[MF243RedTop]

Welcome, nice clean tractor ...
Sitting on the tractor, it should be behind your right foot, it's just a pedal behind your right heel that you press to lock the rear diff... supposed to release when you let off... yes they do stick.. I've had to reach down and pull up on it several times.
The pedal should be close to parallel with the floor pan you rest your foot on when not engaged
I've got about 1250 hrs on my 243 with very little trouble other than maintenance.. keep it serviced and it should serve you well

 

[K5lwq]

Look for a pedal like this.

Picture from this thread. Traction - MF 231S

It is not unusual for differential locks to become stiff over time. Then someone engages the lock and the pedal does not return on it’s own. Then the tractor sits for a while and it can freeze up making releasing it very difficult.

Try at first to lift the pedal by hand. If that does not work spray all the pivot points with a good penetrating oil. I like CorrosionX. Let it soak for a while then try to get it to move. Keep working and it will eventually free up.

 

[JWR]

Welcome to TBN ! Where are you located ?

First, before I forget it, "what that means" (locked differential) is you have a pedal or lever at your right heel near the floor of the tractor. That is the differential lock pedal. On the older Masseys I think it is a short L-shaped lever made out of 1/2" diameter rod. It is a manual way to lock the left and right rear axles together defeating the differential in the middle (which of course normally allows one wheel to rotate more than the other which has to happen during turns. Same thing as in a car or truck differential.)


I saw the posts regarding a headstrong tractor wanting to go straight ahead and refusing to turn when steered. Don't recall all of it but some suggested the problem was that the rear wheels were locked together without benefit of any normal "differential" allowing one wheel to turn faster/further than the other. I assume you've moved it around enough to know you don't have the brakes locked or something silly like that.

The rear wheel lock or differential lock on most/all tractors is a pedal at your right heel which locks the rear differential if you press it downward. It is intended to be used momentarily (to stop wheel spin) and not for long periods of time. Sometimes they do not engage easily and have to be stomped more than once, etc. to engage. Operator manuals typically caution not to engage them when the tractor is in the middle of a hard pull but most of us have done that anyway -- since that is when you usually need the locking like in mud or ice where one wheel wants to spin, etc. I have not had one stick in locked position though it sounded like some people have had that happen. Maybe yours is stuck down ? I have no idea if it is advisable to pry it upward if it is stuck in the down position... but I'd try a few other things first:

I suggest straighten up your steering, run it forward and reverse back and forth a few rounds under low power while bouncing on the heel pedal. It SHOULD come back up and disengage. It is spring loaded and should come upward when free. Rocking around playing with it will probably get it loose. Another thing to try is to jerk the wheel brakes (left one or right one individually, first one and then the other while going slowly forward and or backward.) Do that back and forth and see if that will free it up. As someone else suggested lube the heck out of it while you are at it using PT Blaster or some equivalent.

If none of the above works, you might put it up on jack stands where you can play with the wheels and see for sure if in fact they are locked. [In normal unlocked mode, rotating either wheel by hand will cause the other wheel to rotate in the opposite direction. If in gear and clutch out, you won't be able to rotate either rear wheel if the differential is locked.] I hope this is not insulting as some people know what to expect of a differential and some don't.

I own a MF 2660 not a 231. I would expect other actual 231 owners to speak up here. Good luck with it. Should be a good tractor.

 

[MF231owner]

I'm in SE Ohio.

I pulled the lever up as far as I could into the position shown but I still feel like it's not opened up.

 

[MF231owner]

Here's a field I'm cleaning up. Hasn't been taken care of in about 13 years.

 

[JWR]

Yeah, you have some serious bush hogging to do. I would guess some of those thorn bushes are going to be tough (maybe even too much) for your bush hog. Assuming those are thorn bushes you are probably going to have air leak issues in those front tires. Many things you can do -- preload with Slime, maybe even put in tire liners and tubes protected by the tire liners. It will become apparent to you if and how much this is going to be a problem but I would try to head off as much as you can. Heavier lugged tires on a 4WD are a bit less vulnerable but even they get some holes.

Back to the steering issue -- your photo looks like you got the pedal all the way up. I would still stomp it and lube it to get it as free as possible and still try the things I mentioned in post #4 to see if you can get the rear axle unlocked... if it IS locked. That needs confirmed before going too far.

 

[MF231owner]

Yeah, you have some serious bush hogging to do. I would guess some of those thorn bushes are going to be tough (maybe even too much) for your bush hog. Assuming those are thorn bushes you are probably going to have air leak issues in those front tires. Many things you can do -- preload with Slime, maybe even put in tire liners and tubes protected by the tire liners. It will become apparent to you if and how much this is going to be a problem but I would try to head off as much as you can. Heavier lugged tires on a 4WD are a bit less vulnerable but even they get some holes.

Back to the steering issue -- your photo looks like you got the pedal all the way up. I would still stomp it and lube it to get it as free as possible and still try the things I mentioned in post #4 to see if you can get the rear axle unlocked... if it IS locked. That needs confirmed before going too far.

Not many thorns. It's a bunch of little sumac trees. Most are under 1.5" and the bush hog is taking them out. Anything bigger I'm going going around them and will cut with a chainsaw once I'm done with the tractor work.

As far as the pedal goes I've been spraying it down and have 3-4" of movement in it but the problem persist.

 

[JWR]

Not many thorns. It's a bunch of little sumac trees. Most are under 1.5" and the bush hog is taking them out. Anything bigger I'm going going around them and will cut with a chainsaw once I'm done with the tractor work.

As far as the pedal goes I've been spraying it down and have 3-4" of movement in it but the problem persist.

Very good. The photo looked like that could be a lot of thorn bushes -- glad they are not. Sumac are, as you now know, much easier to cut. Sounds like you have the right plan and on the way there if you just had a tractor you could steer !! This is wild.

Surely the refusal to steer normally must be the locked differential. Can't picture what else.

What happens when you use wheel brakes to try to force tighter turning (right or left) ?

Have you tried all the jerking and moving around suggested to get the lock to release ?

Say, you just bought this a few days ago -- what does the previous owner have to say about it? Does not need to be confrontational at all but I sure would ask him about it !

Apparently the pedal being 'up' does not always mean the differential is unlocked. We have not had any owners chime in who could not get theirs unstuck or had to go to more drastic measures such as tear-down.

 

[K5lwq]

I agree with JWR. Try using the individual brakes while turning. For example turn the wheel all the way to the right and hold down on the outboard brake petal. If you push hard enough, the right rear tire should lock up and the left tire keep turning. If that happens, then you know the differential is not locked.

Another question is what is hooked to the three point when testing turns? Is there any weights on the front of the tractor? If a heavy mower is on the back and no front weights then it is possible that the front end is getting too light for the wheels to bring the front around without the use of steering brakes.

 

[MF231owner]

I soaked it overnight in PB Blaster and when I cut a couple hours this evening it had freed up and was working as it should. I appreciate the help from everyone. I'll keep putting the PB Blaster on it nightly to keep the parts from seizing again.

Here's problem #2: My PTO is turning slowly even when not engaged. Shaft is probably doing 1 rotation every couple seconds.

 

[MF243RedTop]

That could be as simple as a clutch adjustment. You should have a 2 stage live clutch...when engaging/disengaging the pto you should be able to feel the 2nd stage as your clutch pedal nears the bottom of it's range of movement and the pto should stop or start when engaging...if not a adjustment may work....or it's been roughed up in the past and the clutch discs have gotten hot/warped worn possibly..

 

[JWR]

I soaked it overnight in PB Blaster and when I cut a couple hours this evening it had freed up and was working as it should. I appreciate the help from everyone. I'll keep putting the PB Blaster on it nightly to keep the parts from seizing again.

Here's problem #2: My PTO is turning slowly even when not engaged. Shaft is probably doing 1 rotation every couple seconds.

Great to hear that it finally came unlocked! At least now you can go ahead and do what you need to do. Comment on the use of PT Blaster -- it is mainly formulated for what the old timer's called "penetrating oil" to loosen stuck metal parts. While great for that, I wouldn't really recommend it for longer term lubrication. After getting things thoroughly loosened I'd go to some higher viscosity lube to keep it from seizing in the future. I can't quite picture how much space you have to get lube back in there but some aerosol can of lube (maybe with a spray straw tube on it similar to what you see on WD-40 cans) ought to work. There are several lubricating oils that come in aerosol spray cans. Browse around in their "claims to fame" and you'll probably find a good match -- anyway better than long-term use of PT Blaster. Blaster themselves make inexpensive spray cans of white lithium grease for example.

 

[MF231owner]

Going to replace the fuel filter because I can't tell if it's an off road mix giving it that brown look or if it's just nasty. That bottom rubber piece is dry rotted and needs replaced. Anyone have a name or part number for it?

 

[MF243RedTop]

You'll get a new set of o-rings and gaskets with the new filter.
Have you ever changed a CAV style filter?
If not I would watch a couple of instructional videos first, they can be a bit challenging the first time.

Napa 3166 should be the part number for your filter, it's the same across many MF tractors and other brands as well.
Here's a thread with a few filter numbers or cross reference on the web or order that agco filter..

98' MF 231 Filter References

Here is the fuel and engine oil filter references for the 1998 Massey Ferguson 231. The Napa Gold filters are a for sure fit, because thats what I use most. I crossed the numbers over on the Baldwin and Wix filters website, but havent actually used the Baldwin and Wix filters on this model...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[MF231owner]

You'll get a new set of o-rings and gaskets with the new filter.
Have you ever changed a CAV style filter?
If not I would watch a couple of instructional videos first, they can be a bit challenging the first time.

Napa 3166 should be the part number for your filter, it's the same across many MF tractors and other brands as well.
Here's a thread with a few filter numbers or cross reference on the web or order that agco filter..

98' MF 231 Filter References

Here is the fuel and engine oil filter references for the 1998 Massey Ferguson 231. The Napa Gold filters are a for sure fit, because thats what I use most. I crossed the numbers over on the Baldwin and Wix filters website, but havent actually used the Baldwin and Wix filters on this model...

www.tractorbynet.com

Looking at my picture there's a quarter size rubber piece between the glass bowl and wing nut. I've watched some videos and it doesn't seem that it's an included piece.

 

[MF243RedTop]

Looks like you're going to have to buy the entire bolt kit for that rubber gasket.

Massey Ferguson 231 Fuel Filter Screw Kit - D2NN9N090B

Massey Ferguson 231 Fuel Filter Screw Kit for sale, D2NN9N090B. Used on many tractors, this screw kit is used in CAV style diesel fuel filter assemblies. Replaces OEM numbers D2NN9N090B, 81829151, 7111-604, 7111-860. Used on Massey Ferguson 133, 135, 140, 145, 152, 155, 158, 165, 168, 174-4...

www.yesterdaystractors.com

Or go with those part numbers provided there and see if you can find just the gasket

 

[MF231owner]

Anyone know if the Pat's Quick change will work on the arms of the 231? Just saw the email from the forum offering them on sale for the weekend.

 

[Dmacleo]

Anyone know if the Pat's Quick change will work on the arms of the 231? Just saw the email from the forum offering them on sale for the weekend.

well, cant speak on your tractor but I use Pats on a class 1 AND a class 2 (gc2400 and MF1532) hitch. they work well.
not as easy as other types BUT due to geometry you do NOT lose any lift height. in fact you gain a little, and when dealing with SCUTS/CUTS that is a huge issue.

 

[Sportsman762]

The Pats quick hitch should fit. I prefer a U frame style quick hitch, it has been hashed over here a million times pats vs u frame, there are pros and cons to each.
Also a bush hog can be heavy. Your 231 does not have any weights on the front so it could be a light front causing your steering problems if they still persist. A quick hitch will extend the load further back causing the steering to be worse.
The slowly turning pto indicates that there is some drag on the PTO disc. It could be out of adjustment. Under the tractor is an access plate that you can adjust the clutch through.
Fuel filter does not look too bad. Its equal to a CAV7111-296 or a Baldwin BF825.