Wheel Loader Tires on Tractor?

[Suburban Plowboy]

The front tires on my Kubota L3710 were not looking great, and one came off the rim a couple of times. They have a lot of cracks.

I decided to get new front tires.

The original tires were Goodyear turf tires, and I found out they were rated at 1000 pounds, which seemed ridiculous for a tractor that will lift at least 1500 with the loader. Also, it seemed to me that smooth tires were a bad idea for a 4-wheel-drive machine. Maybe I'm wrong.

I got myself some Carlisle tires. Now that I have them, I am seeing indications that they are really loader tires, so the manufacturer apparently had things like Bobcats in mind.

Has anyone else here used loader tires for tractor fronts? I'm wondering if there is any down side.

I don't care about marking up grass, since this tractor is used in the woods and my pasture.

 

[Roadworthy]

If you have a four wheel drive tractor the biggest concern is matching the overalll circumference to the original. Deviating very far will cause excessive wear in the drive mechanism. Beyond that it doesn't matter if you're running racing slicks.

 

[WinterDeere]

Do note that not all turf tires are equal. Lots of 4wd CUT's configured for turf come with 4-ply rated tires up front, which are not really suitable for loader work. But these sizes are typically also available in 6-ply rating, which should meet or exceed the requirements outlined in your loader manual.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

The tire dude said only one of my old tires had a tube. Wonder how that happened. I guess they both started out tubeless and one developed a leak they couldn't fix.

 

[JJT]

~10 years ago I changed the front tires on my L3710 to skid steer tires. Same height and circumference, but close to twice the psi and number of belts and load capacity as the OEM tires. No issues, I'm a happy camper. The skid steer tires where in stock, OEM's were not.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

I wonder if I should run a lower psi on a tractor than a wheel loader.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I wonder if I should run a lower psi on a tractor than a wheel loader.

They need to stand up. Tire has pressure suggested on sidewalls.

 

[npalen]

The industrial tires on my Mahindra 3015 (30HP) are so stiff that can leave all the air out of the rears and they will still stand tall. Found that out when loading on a a 60" width trailer with sides. Had to let the air out to get it on and off the trailer. The downside is that it rides like a lumber wagon with 10 PSI.

 

[4570Man]

A skid steer tire is a much heavier duty tire than the average tractor R4 tire. As long as the size is correct I wouldn’t hesitate to use them.

 

[WinterDeere]

I'm not sure I see the advantage of running skid steer tires on a tractor. I mean, sure they work... but serious overkill, and hell of a stiff ride for anything other than a 100% dedicated loader application.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

I didn't find a great selection of tractor tires. Maybe I looked in the wrong places.

 

[WinterDeere]

Hmm... let me look and see if I can find anything.

1. What's your factory front tire size?
2. You still running factory rears?
3. What load rating does your FEL manual prescribe for the front tires?

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

I already have the tires on the tractor, so I would not want to waste your time.

I don't recall the factory tire size, but the tires that were on it were 27x8.5, which is not the factory size.

 

[MHarryE]

Tires on my L3710 were 10 x 16.5 R4 which is very common on skid steers. Same tires on my L5740 and L6060. Very common to match with 17.5 x 24 R4 rears. Only change I made was when I loaned to a cousin and he knocked the tires off the rims. I replaced the factory tire with XtraWall 14 ply tires. Most CUTs at my dealer have the skid steer fronts. They have double the load rating of the base tire.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

If you have a four wheel drive tractor the biggest concern is matching the overalll circumference to the original. Deviating very far will cause excessive wear in the drive mechanism.

I second this.

My Uncle used to run a '54 Willy's Wagon as his winter side gig snow plow business. The front tires were 15" and the back was 16" which would have been a big problem in 4x4 except that the overall circumference of the tires matched. I don't know how he managed to get this set up, but he was poor and worked in a scrap metal yard. He did a lot of make-do projects.

So... yeah. As long as the new tires measure the as same the old tires, there shouldn't be any problem.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

They need to stand up. Tire has pressure suggested on sidewalls.

Be careful with this, a lot of tires are marked with the maximum pressure on the sidewall.

I just replaced the tires on my F-450 and the kid at the tire shop came in and regretfully informed me that he could only get 95 psi in my tires because that was the max their compressor put out. The tires were marked 110 psi on the sidewall so that's what he thought they should be at.

 

[WinterDeere]

Be careful with this, a lot of tires are marked with the maximum pressure on the sidewall.

I just replaced the tires on my F-450 and the kid at the tire shop came in and regretfully informed me that he could only get 95 psi in my tires because that was the max their compressor put out. The tires were marked 110 psi on the sidewall so that's what he thought they should be at.

That's funny, good story! But car tires and tractor tires are a bit different. Both hit max load rating at max sidewall pressure, but in a highway vehicle you're worried as much about tread wear, grip, and handling as max load rating, so you'd best stick with what's marked on the sticker in your door jamb. But for a tractor traveling 99% of its life < 10 mph, you really only care about load handling and perhaps a little ride quality, so going to max pressure may be your prescription.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Be careful with this, a lot of tires are marked with the maximum pressure on the sidewall.

I just replaced the tires on my F-450 and the kid at the tire shop came in and regretfully informed me that he could only get 95 psi in my tires because that was the max their compressor put out. The tires were marked 110 psi on the sidewall so that's what he thought they should be at.

We run ours at 110. F450 bucket truck. Also on a goose neck trailer made for hauling logs, 16" G rated tires. I will say that when one occasionally blows out, sounds like a bomb went off.

 

[DonaldP]

I second this.

My Uncle used to run a '54 Willy's Wagon as his winter side gig snow plow business. The front tires were 15" and the back was 16" which would have been a big problem in 4x4 except that the overall circumference of the tires matched. I don't know how he managed to get this set up, but he was poor and worked in a scrap metal yard. He did a lot of make-do projects.

So... yeah. As long as the new tires measure the as same the old tires, there shouldn't be any problem.

Resourcefulness!!! Is that a word?

 

[jayhawk238]

Resourcefulness!!! Is that a word?

It is now!! Great word...have to remember it!!