GC2300 frame flexing under certain conditions?

[eCRX]

I noticed that under rare conditions that my hood will move left\right. eg. if i put all off the tractors weight on one of the front wheels - climbing a 8in 'bump'. This does not occur 99% of the time, it just happen to catch my eye while using tractor fairly hard.

The other day the left side of my hood popped up past the 'detent' latch deal - my heart sank. I think my box blade may have hooked onto some hard ground at the same time I was climbing a step in my landscape (single front wheel taking the weight). Got the tractor back on flat ground, inspected from top to bottom. everything seemed fine. FEL is still strait, bolts were very tight, no cracks or welding issues on the frame. hood went right back down like nothing happened.

I can't find ANYTHING wrong with the tractor\frame\FEL. I used the tractor for 2 more days, working it pretty hard, but being more mindful. I'm obsessed with this issue every time I'm somewhat aggressive with the tractor, and it didn't happen again.

Anyone ever experience this? Is there a certain amount of frame flex that is acceptable with a modern SCUT? Do I just need to go easier on the tractor and call this a lesson-learned?

 

[JWR]

I can't help directly (I have no GC machine) but if it will ease your pain I have a (large) MF2660HD whose hood will pop open and spring up into the air so high I cannot see to go further if I hit a bump beyond some level of severity. The latch is well designed but is supported by flimsy sheet metal and stuff that flexes or bends when a shock occurs. For example an unseen ditch, hit hard while bush hogging, often triggers it. I have modified the latch support mechanism twice.

 

[eCRX]

hood will pop open and spring up into the air so high I cannot see to go further

lol. maybe it's built in feature? tractor is saying "oi! take it easy! "

 

[Dmacleo]

2010 GC2400 (my daily driver, I deal with ditches 36" high on one side and when entering my hood stays down(no actual latch just spring clips) ...as one rear wheel off ground....) , 2021 GC1725M, 2021 GC1723 here.
its more likely flex caused by whats happening on rear wheels.
its the ONLY solid axle.
a 10" bump hitting front axle (which has approx 5-6" vertical play off level (IOW 10-12" total movement) will only twist frame 1"
10" bump hitting one side of rear axle is a 10" shift.
look for loose/broken cross members around the beginning of foot areas and backwards.
I would look at start at the crossbar in front of MMM lift shaft and go from there.
I only have 15 man hours dealing with a 2005 GC2310 so ...double check my thinking.

 

[ray66v]

A box blade, like many implements, can lead to sever damage to your equipment. Use extra caution, and keep your speed low when you are using it.

GC's are tough, but they are not capable of taking anything you give it.

As far as the frame flexing, my experience is with a 2310. That frame is beefed up, and I'm pretty comfortable saying it's real unlikely it's going to flex. But, I suppose it's possible on your 2300. I agree with the others though, it's probably something else.

I have a 1964 Bolens 600 tube frame, that the hood won't stay latched on when I hit a bump, and that frame is as tough as they get.

 

[DMW]

Foam filled the fronts when new, the hood flexing became very pronounced. You learn to keep the fronts on ground that doesn't exceed the limit of the front axle swing. The higher the tire pressure, the more noticeable. Never been an issue in over 16 years. Do not compare it to a backhoe version, they have heavily reinforced frames.

 

[Dmacleo]

Only difference between tlb and non tlb is tlb has brackets bolted on. Frame itself is the same. My gc2400 does not have backhoe and I can, as stated before, enter a36 inch ditch wo frame flex issues. I also run a 5ft box blade, 7ft grader blade, 54 inch rear snow blower and I never have frame flex like this.

 

[ray66v]

Only difference between tlb and non tlb is tlb has brackets bolted on. Frame itself is the same.

The frame is the same. But, it's reinforced big time.

The brackets double much of it.

 

[Dmacleo]

The frame is the same. But, it's reinforced big time.

The brackets double much of it.

yeah I know. got backhoe and non backhoe sitting here now. couple hundred feet away is a 1725m backhoe I use a lot and a 1723 non backhoe I can grab if needed.
so...2 GC series sitting on lawn and 2 sitting few minutes away I can take w/o even having to tell owners.

due to how loader and backhoe brackets mount I really suspect if there is anything loose its the x-member in front of the MMM lift shaft.the backhoe frame mounts actually will not help with side-side flex really. there is no crossover between them. of its a tlb and hoe removed frame flex don't care about brackets on each side. if hoe on the pins prevent flex.

 

[eCRX]

Dmacleo, which part are you talking about?

 

[Dmacleo]

hard to tell but think its item 3, bolts/washers item 4/5 go in from each side of frame to it.
when those are loose/missing there is a bunch of flexing. I know this for a fact.
mine fixed now and...like I said...enter a 36" ditch with one rear tire off ground (yeah 4wd and diff lock used) every time I mow with no flex issues.

hard to tell from pic today (been 3 weeks since mowed) but this left rear tire is 8" off ground. I have to use 4wd and diff lock to orientate myself to mow here.
and no real frame flex.
hopefully it wont rain more this week (like last 2+ weeks) so I can do final mowing for year. grass is 9-15" tall under that rear tire.

 

[eCRX]

It's looking like I need to take a break from moving dirt and get underneath the tractor with a flashlight and some wrenches. I'll let you guys know if I find anything. I'm 20/80 on thinking this is normal vs something-is-loose. I was mostly looking at the crossmember near (1). I'll see if i can repeat the scenario with a single safety ramp and go from there.

 

[Dmacleo]

ramps are awesome for this stuff. I se them a lot for doing stuff, not much room under there so I put in front of rear tires and drive up onto them. never forget you drove ONTO then though....its quite a bump when you drive fwd and suddenly drop 12"....

 

[DMW]

It's looking like I need to take a break from moving dirt and get underneath the tractor with a flashlight and some wrenches. I'll let you guys know if I find anything. I'm 20/80 on thinking this is normal vs something-is-loose. I was mostly looking at the crossmember near (1). I'll see if i can repeat the scenario with a single safety ramp and go from there.

I think it's normal, has done it since new, very easy to replicate. The hood mounts and latch mechanism changed for the GC2400.
If you go underneath, check the motor mounts while your there.

 

[Dmacleo]

I think it's normal, has done it since new, very easy to replicate. The hood mounts and latch mechanism changed for the GC2400.
If you go underneath, check the motor mounts while your there.

There is no actual latch on a gc24xx series. It's just a spring clip on each side of hood.
That's why I put mine purposely into a flex position.
And my hood did not raise.

 

[beenthere]

Lightweight frame will twist. Just have to live with it or go easier on the little tractor.

 

[eCRX]

guys, I can't find anything wrong with the machine.

what I think is happening is that the counterweight (425lbs) or the box blade (462lbs + leverage) is pinning the back wheels to the ground. when one of the front wheels lifts high enough off of the wheel-plane, the frame twists.

I believe this is normal (within reason) and that the frame\steel has some level of springiness to it; not unique to MF or the GC series.

My Conclusion and lesson-learned: It's not a rented track loader. It's not made of carbon-fiber-wrapped-titanium. Assume the the tractor has enough power to self-destruct, especially with a counterweight 1/3rd of the weight of the base machine is hanging off of the 3PH.

 

[DMW]

guys, I can't find anything wrong with the machine.

what I think is happening is that the counterweight (425lbs) or the box blade (462lbs + leverage) is pinning the back wheels to the ground. when one of the front wheels lifts high enough off of the wheel-plane, the frame twists.

I believe this is normal (within reason) and that the frame\steel has some level of springiness to it; not unique to MF or the GC series.

My Conclusion and lesson-learned: It's not a rented track loader. It's not made of carbon-fiber-wrapped-titanium. Assume the the tractor has enough power to self-destruct, especially with a counterweight 1/3rd of the weight of the base machine is hanging off of the 3PH.

If the front axle pivot hits the frame stop, the hood will flex. My fronts are foam filled, very stiff, it flexes the hood very easily. The effect is also influenced by tire pressure, softer tires reduce the flex. Takes at least 6" of front swing (tire height difference) to start happening. As long as the front axle is parallel with the frame no issue, doesn't matter what the rear axle is doing.

Just want to add that a counterweight will actually increase the longevity and safety of the tractor in all operations. Filled rear tires may be nice, but a counterweight is better.

 

[GeneV]

ramps are awesome for this stuff. I se them a lot for doing stuff, not much room under there so I put in front of rear tires and drive up onto them. never forget you drove ONTO then though....its quite a bump when you drive fwd and suddenly drop 12"....

Unfortunately I have no input for the o/p, but I must say this is a good idea...I never thought of using ramps like that.

 

[Dmacleo]

Unfortunately I have no input for the o/p, but I must say this is a good idea...I never thought of using ramps like that.

using them with bucket to lift front (watch rear tire movement when raising front, use bucket tilt to keep in place.. start with cut edge on ground) and a level on the frame helps set you up for hyd oil changes on GC series.