Buying Advice First Tractor

[SorenV]

A wood splitter that runs off the tractor hydraulics will be slower and less powerful than a standalone splitter. Tractor hydraulics do not have as much flow or pressure as a dedicated splitter. With careful shopping the cost difference is small, only a few hundred $$.

How large a chipper do you intent to run? And how large will the material be that you're chipping? I have a hydraulic feed 8" Woodmaxx and find that of all the tasks I do, chipping is the only one that makes me want more than the 37hp my tractor has.

A chipper with a large throat is useful even if you're chipping small stuff because you can do less trimming. Power feed is much safer than "self feeding" chippers, and hydraulic feed lets adjust the feed speed.

That's interesting about the splitter. My understanding was that you could get PTO driven ones. I liked this idea since I would assume it would be cheaper and simpler in design (no engine, just a pump, value, piston, etc.).

As for the chipper, I am shooting for something rated for 3", but I'll probably stay under that, anything over I'll just cut and stack, or burn.

 

[SorenV]

What is your location?

Tractors and implements are cheapest in the South.

About 30% more expensive in the N.E.

Higher in Alaska and Hawaii.


Many here share my poor experience with wood chippers for mixed soft wood and hard wood chipping. Burning is more time efficient than using a high maintenance wood chipper.

I recommend an electric powered wood splitter over a tractor powered wood splitter.
VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=electric+log+splitter

I live in rural VA. Could you expand more on mixing soft and hard wood? I have not come across this before. What are the particular issues? My intention is the use the woodchips (compost, paths, etc.). I do intend to burn as well.

 

[SorenV]

About a year ago I sold my 27 year old MF1250 (34hp) 4WD tractor with loader for $8,500. That did not include any implements. If you find something that you are seriously considering, I would recommend doing a casual search for repair parts just to see what is available. Some old compact tractors can be a challenge finding parts.

That sounds like something I'd be interested in and it's encouraging to hear I'm not completely off mark. It seems like I might need to up my budget a little though. Could you point me in the right direction for parts? Is there a RockAuto for tractors?

 

[SorenV]

Sure. You'll be able to get something that will do the work for under ten grand. Lots of us did. Unless you are crazy lucky it will require some work.

Here are 3 different paths a few of us did before buying new became the favorite game. You can do the same.
The neat thing about used tractors is they age so slowly. You can get one going and it will work that way for years. And when you finally get it all working like new you will be old and wise enough to appreciate that it will keep on going on for another generation.

Start by looking in your local farming community for an older Ag tractor- most name brands 20 to 30 years old are in the running. The one you want is the one that someone still uses but is in good running shape. Be prepared to spend half your money on it. No junk. You aren't looking for a beat up compact 4x4 with a loader, You are paying serious dollars for a basic usable tractor, and for that you want it to have everything working, a decent set of tires, a good 3pt hitch - probably a category II, and a good PTO. A lot of hours is OK, but NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS. That machine will set you back about 5000 to 6000, and then another $4000 will put a loader on it.
Parts for older Ag machines are in pretty good supply. Stick with a brand you recognize. Ask on some forums.

There are other paths.
You could probably find a 20 year old beat up little diesel compact 4x4 with a loader that needs work. Sounds like you are a mechanic so you can evaluate that for yourself. I see them from time to time that need engine or transmission work. The old ones are simple enough for any backyard mechanic. $5K will suffice to get started there. Parts range from moderately hard to get to downright impossible. Junk yard or second hand gears...that sort of stuff.

Some people even go for an older backhoe+loader. You know, the ones you see on construction sites.Used commercial machines are really beat up but surprisingly durable in good mechanical hands. Some real bargains there, but to go that route you need some serious mechanical skills and things like a 3 ton hoist. $10K will just get you in the door of this route. Expect that the engine & tranny will be usable, but hydraulics and electrics require work. Maybe a clutch & brakes too. Plus some steering work. Parts are available for almost any model with yellow paint by Case or John Deere.

Welcome to Tractor & Loader School! It's fun here.
rScotty

Thank you for taking the time to write this all out, this is very helpful. "And when you finally get it all working like new you will be old and wise enough to appreciate that it will keep on going on for another generation". This is the goal and well put.

Could you help my understand:

What is the difference between ag and compact tractors? I had the general impression that all tractors were ag tractors.

Does a Cat II hitch provide more options or just more power? Is there a significant price difference between attachments for a Cat I vs a Cat II?

I have come to understand that 4wd and power steering is basically non-negotiable when running a loader. Can you confirm this, and can I assume that generally, 20-30 year old tractors come with power steering?

When it comes to name brands, I've landed on John Deere, Massey Furguson, Kubota, and New Holland as the ideals for parts availability. Can this be expanded?

I asked this above in another response, but what is the best method to go about getting parts? Is there a RockAuto for tractors to your knowledge?

Can you give your thoughts on hydro static vs gear terms of the trade off if any between longevity, maintenance/parts, and easy of operation with a loader or tiller.

 

[SorenV]

Unlikely 10k. More likely 15k for a 20 year old one with those things you ask for.

I am thinking I will need to up my budget.

 

[SorenV]

OP,

I don't think you're going to like running a wood chipper on 25hp. Not one bit.

Why are you setting that as a hp limit? Normally the guys that say "stay under 25hp" are the guys that are worried about the Tier IV emissions.

You won't have any of that stuff to worry about on an old tractor.

That's helpful. I didn't mean it as a hard upper limit, just that in my research it seemed that I needed 20-25 PTO HP to effectively run a tiller. I hadn't considered athe chipper since I had assumed the weight of the wheel did the brunt of the work. Is there a lower HP limit you would suggest for a chipper rated for 3" green?

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

That's helpful. I didn't mean it as a hard upper limit, just that in my research it seemed that I needed 20-25 PTO HP to effectively run a tiller. I hadn't considered athe chipper since I had assumed the weight of the wheel did the brunt of the work. Is there a lower HP limit you would suggest for a chipper rated for 3" green?

Are you certain you won't chip more than a 3" branch? That's pretty small stuff. I was thinking you'd be looking at 4-6", possibly 8" stuff and I wouldn't look at any hp under 45hp. But 3"? That is pretty light duty. I would maybe look at chippers first, then after selecting an attachment size that will work for what you need done, use that implement's hp requirement as your guide to how much hp you'll need.

I think from what you listed, the chipper may take more hp than any of the other attachments on your list. So if the tractor you end up with will drive the chipper, then everything else should be golden.

 

[Raul-02]

I would prefer something old that can effectively/easily run a loader without custom work (welding up custom brackets, third party hydraulics, etc).

Finding a loader that will fit an older tractor is like finding a winning powerball ticket. Your best bet might be Deer simply because there are so many Deer tractors. When was the last time anyone heard the original name John Deer??

There are financing offers you don't have to drop 35K. I put 10K down on a Kioti DK 4710HST Cab and financed the rest at very low interest. In the financing deal, I rolled a snow pusher, the FEL, a post hole digger, and a grapple. On the used market I got a tiller, and a plow. I'm looking for a back blade and I built a hiller from a toolbar.

For the size of your property you NEED more horsepower.. Don't go smaller than 45 - 50. You could put 100 to good use.

 

[jeff9366]

I live in rural VA. Could you expand more on mixing soft and hard wood? I have not come across this before. What are the particular issues? My intention is the use the woodchips (compost, paths, etc.). I do intend to burn as well.

Each chipper slice heats and dulls the blades. You want the fewest cuts that will not labor the chipper.
For hard wood the blades should be adjusted for relatively thin cuts.
For soft woods the blades should be adjusted for thicker cuts.
Dirt laden or sandy wood rapidly dulls chipper blades.

My experience was that the blades dulled too rapidly. I got tired of the maintenance, sold the Wallenstein chipper and went back to burning.

Users that chip one type of orchard wood or Christmas trees of a fairly consistent dryness are happier with chippers.

 

[PuffyC]

My intention is the use the woodchips (compost, paths, etc.). I do intend to burn as well.

I’ll echo what some others have said and suggest you may want to rethink the chipping. We had that exact same idea but once we realized how much wood you have to feed through a chipper to get a bucket of chips, and how much work is required to prep the wood before running it through the chipper, we quickly gave up on that. I have a stand-alone gas powered chipper but it’ll be for sale soon - live and learn. I’m sure if you had one of those big towable monster chippers that’ll eat 6-9 in logs it might be different but man those are expensive.

How much are you thinking you’ll till? I ask because if it’s not a lot you can save a ton of money getting a standalone tiller. A 54” PTO driven tiller is pretty pricey but if you’re only looking to put in something like a 1/4 acre garden a standalone tiller will work fine. Cutting it in will be a chore but once the ground has been prepped it’s easy peasy every season afterwards.

My only other advice is not to buy any attachments until you actually need to use them. In other words, don’t shop based on what you think you want to do someday, shop based on what you need to do today. Otherwise you might spend a lot of money on stuff you end up wishing you hadn’t. I speak from personal experience here - learn from my mistake