3-Point Log Splitters?

[Wilverine]

Good afternoon all:
We recently purchased a New Holland Boomer 50 tractor and, amongst other things, I'm looking to buy a log splitter that will run off the on board hydraulics. Please offer any suggestions y'all would consider helpful.
Thanks!
Will

 

[sea2summit]

You're average home depot log splitter has a 7-9 HP engine that makes an 11 GPM hydraulic flow.

You're wanting to use a 50HP tractor with a 8.2 GPM hydraulic flow.

The reason splitters on tractors aren't more popular is they are SLOOOOOOOWWWWW by comparison and not much cheaper, if not more expensive, to buy.

 

[Jims1025R]

I built my own, and am very happy with it. There are certainly choices for purchase.

Before buying, consider the hydraulic hook up. If you're using the third function valve, that's fine, but know that you won't have the detent return feature, you'll have to lever it to split, and to retract. Be cautious about using log splitted type detent valves on the tractor system (you click past a detent, and the splitter returns on its own). I started out with a detent type log splitter valve as a third function valve on my JD650. It worked, except for one problem: There was a combination of motions where at the top of the lift stroke for the loader, the third function valve would sense and release pressure, and drop the loader like you'd just floated it it - super dangerous at all, but worse when it was high. I contacted the valve manufacturer, and they said that was not a usable valve on that type of hydraulic system, use a regular valve, and lever it both ways. So I did, and it works.

Also, if you use a valve which is not from the tractor manufacturer, it may have a built in pressure relief, set lower than the system pressure on the tractor, so you don't get the muscle you expect. I spent a frustrating winter sorta splitting, to then connect a dump trailer which would not pump. When I figured out the problem, and reset the pressure relief in the third function valve, the dump trailer became a slingshot, and the log splitter would now do the really hard knotty maple no problem....

My new JD1025R has the factory third function valve, and it works a charm - for the $$$$!

 

[Wilverine]

You're average home depot log splitter has a 7-9 HP engine that makes an 11 GPM hydraulic flow.

You're wanting to use a 50HP tractor with a 8.2 GPM hydraulic flow.

The reason splitters on tractors aren't more popular is they are SLOOOOOOOWWWWW by comparison and not much cheaper, if not more expensive, to buy.

Thank you.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

I split alot of wood every year as I heat not only a my place but an outdoor pool boiler as well all season to 90f... my experience is that when I had a rear 3pt splitter it had a slow cycle rate and added over 200 hours of use to the tractor a year. I figure lifetime operating and replacement cost for my tractors at $25/hr so $5,000 per year.

Now I use 1) a 25 ton gas portable unit for 18" rnds with B&S gas engine and I figure it has a lifetime operating and replacement cost of <$4/hr. Probably same speed as my old tractor mounted unit and 2) my bigger Wallwnstein wood processor that I run up to 50' long logs through it and up a conveyor leg at < $15/hr. and hourly throughput is much greater at slightly more than 1 cord/hour for 1 operator (1.7 cords with 2 people) which is many fold quicker than tractor or standalone unit.

all these numbers exclude the labour costs as my labour is free (fuel, repair, depreciation) but reasonable in what I am getting.

if you are bent on a 3pt unit consider one that splits on both directions of cyl throw which almost doubles your cycle times. I've never had one but understand its advantages!

cheers and good luck


Bidirectional 3pt splitter

1,280 × 720

 

[mike0000]

My three point hitch splitter uses its own pump connected to the PTO drive of my tractor (not connected to tractor hydraulics), I don’t have any experience with any other type of splitter, (I inherited it from my dad, I’ve been using it since the 1980’s), but I wouldn’t consider it to have a slow cycle rate.
One benefit of a three point splitter is I don’t have another engine (gas splitter) to maintain. I have a hitch on the back of the splitter which allows me to tow my trailer. I would say that if I needed to transport my splitter off my property (which I don’t) a three point splitter wouldn’t be ideal.

Mike

 

[3Ts]

I have a 3ph log splitter with a 4" cylinder that I run off my JD 50Hp tractor. It splits everything including cutting some cross grain stuff. The splitter hydraulics run off of the power beyond from a bank of valves mounted on my fender (meaning my hydraulic system is somewhat modified from as built) and runs 11 gpm @ 2700 psi. The splitter has the detent valve, but when it is hooked up it bypasses the 3pt hitch controls which pretty much means that the tractor is only used as a hydraulic power pack at that point.

I do not do much firewood and have about a cord out back which will last more than a year so I don't want another engine that will sit for a long time between uses.

 

[Wilverine]

I built my own, and am very happy with it. There are certainly choices for purchase.

Before buying, consider the hydraulic hook up. If you're using the third function valve, that's fine, but know that you won't have the detent return feature, you'll have to lever it to split, and to retract. Be cautious about using log splitted type detent valves on the tractor system (you click past a detent, and the splitter returns on its own). I started out with a detent type log splitter valve as a third function valve on my JD650. It worked, except for one problem: There was a combination of motions where at the top of the lift stroke for the loader, the third function valve would sense and release pressure, and drop the loader like you'd just floated it it - super dangerous at all, but worse when it was high. I contacted the valve manufacturer, and they said that was not a usable valve on that type of hydraulic system, use a regular valve, and lever it both ways. So I did, and it works.

Also, if you use a valve which is not from the tractor manufacturer, it may have a built in pressure relief, set lower than the system pressure on the tractor, so you don't get the muscle you expect. I spent a frustrating winter sorta splitting, to then connect a dump trailer which would not pump. When I figured out the problem, and reset the pressure relief in the third function valve, the dump trailer became a slingshot, and the log splitter would now do the really hard knotty maple no problem....

My new JD1025R has the factory third function valve, and it works a charm - for the $$$$!

Thank you for the kind and comprehensive response.

 

[Wilverine]

I have a 3ph log splitter with a 4" cylinder that I run off my JD 50Hp tractor. It splits everything including cutting some cross grain stuff. The splitter hydraulics run off of the power beyond from a bank of valves mounted on my fender (meaning my hydraulic system is somewhat modified from as built) and runs 11 gpm @ 2700 psi. The splitter has the detent valve, but when it is hooked up it bypasses the 3pt hitch controls which pretty much means that the tractor is only used as a hydraulic power pack at that point.

I do not do much firewood and have about a cord out back which will last more than a year so I don't want another engine that will sit for a long time between uses.

Thank you! Exactly my situation it seems.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I run a separate gas powered splitter. I only have the one tractor, and I wouldn't want it tied up running the splitter when I need the bucket and loader to bring over the rounds for splitting, and the forks for carrying trees and large branches. A small gas engine takes very little maintenance, I think all I've done with mine in the 5 years I've owned it was to run the gas out of it at the end of each season, and put gas back in it at the start of the next. It usually starts on the first pull and has been pretty flawless so far. It's just a "homeowner" grade splitter, but I'm not using much wood here either. Maybe half a cord a year.

 

[jeff9366]

If you have a tractor/loader, so you can move billets from the woods to your driveway, consider a 110 volt or 220 volt electric log splitter.

electric log splitter site:tractorbynet.com


I'm planning on buying an electric super split. They aren't exactly cheap, but they are quite a bit faster than the single wedge hydraulic splitters, machine odor free and they are quiet.

 

[Jims1025R]

The three point splitter I made acts vertically with the "anvil" so to speak resting on the ground, or up on a cut log if I want. The reason being that if I need to split a log so large that I cannot lift it, I can walk it into position. I have split 28" diameter maple in it, It took a few passes, outer ring first then again inner ring, but it worked. I could have never lifted and positioned such a log by myself on a horizontal splitter. The other factor being that no matter how big I split, it does not fall anywhere, it's already on the ground. If my back is sore, and the logs are small, I set the anvil plate on a sawn log, so it's up off the ground 16".

I have seen commercial three point splitters which are hinged, so they would work either vertically or horizontally. If you will never split logs heavier than you can lift, horizontal splitting is not a problem...

 

[crazyal]

How much wood do you plan to split in a year? I have a cheap splitter from Lowes with a Honda engine on it. I've owned it for about 17 years now and other than changing the engine oil and hydraulic filter I haven't done a thing to it. It starts up either on the first or second pull. I split up to 6 cords a year and more than half is split so an 80 year old woman can handle them. So it's got lots of use. It works out to over 350 hours now. I would say, for me at least, anything more than 2 cords a year is enough to buy (or rent) a stand alone splitter unless you just split small amounts at a time spread out over the year.

 

[mike0000]

I don’t split too many rounds this big, but dropping the splitter to the ground sure helps my back.

Mike

 

[Rich B1]

I have a Speeco 3pt splitter and a NH TC21D for power. No loader, so I haul my wood to the wood pile with a trailer.

Yes, the splitter is a bit slow with 4.9 GPM. But the way I arrange my splitting process, it works for me. Unload from the trailer, split, stack, repeat. The ram has time to cycle while I am doing something else. One thing I don't do is fully retract the cylinder between splits. I try to be consistent in the length of each round, so only retract the cylinder enough to have the wedge in place for the next round to drop in.

The Speeco splitter is hinged so I can use it to split exceptionally large rounds on the ground. I like that feature.

I do about 3 cords/year. IMO, the little bit of extra run time on the tractor being a power unit beats maintaining yet another engine.

If I was doing more or I had to use the tractor to move the wood with a loader, I may have a different view on the whole thing. But it works for me. It just may not work for everyone.

 

[AchingBack]

View attachment 730665
I don’t split too many rounds this big, but dropping the splitter to the ground sure helps my back.

Mike

This makes me think about removing the stand from the beam on my splitter. Mine can split vertically but it is a hassle to reposition it.

 

[WranglerX]

I avoided having my tractor tied up with splitter when I need to move up to 36 inch rounds into splitter (in vertical orientating) .... Bought a abused 22 ton splitter for $200 and it need carburetor for B&S engine and found out I could buy an new HF Predator (6.5 HP) engine for less ($139) than all carb parts needed for the B&S... So with new hoses and new engine and tires and using old frame and cylinder and control valve I have about $550 invested..... And I can replace motor several times cheaper than cost per hour/cheaper than the wear on tractor....

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I would like to see the pile of wood my 3-point splitter would make, to wear out my tractor, I couldn't burn it all in three lifetimes!

Stage all of your big rounds on a trailer with your tractor's loader, then turn your tractor around, and roll those same big rounds using a board, right onto your 3-point splitters beam and split them!

Works for me every time!

SR

 

[WranglerX]

If you have a tractor/loader, so you can move billets from the woods to your driveway, consider a 110 volt or 220 volt electric log splitter.

electric log splitter site:tractorbynet.com


I'm planning on buying an electric super split. They aren't exactly cheap, but they are quite a bit faster than the single wedge hydraulic splitters, machine odor free and they are quiet.

But a 300 ft. extension cord is not practical (voltage drop) where I do my splitting and then the cost of buying and maintenance on a generator to run a electric splitter............

 

[dodge man]

For me it was about cost. I’m not sure why but it seems like you can buy a stand alone for the same money as a 3 point splitter. My stand alone was a cheaper one though, probably $700 or a little less.

Maintenance of a stand alone gas powered? Mine is 15 to 20 years old. I change the oil every couple of years and have changed the hydraulic fluid twice. The only problem I had is when mice ate some wiring which wasn’t a hard fix. I’m guessing the average maintenance time per year is less than a hour.