Tractor quit and won't start

[DonRybak]

BakoJ, I agree with those that think it's electrical. Regardless if it's getting fuel it should still turn over. Just wouldn't start. And electrical is the only thing I see that would affect the dash display. Interested to see what the outcome is on this.......

 

[Ewcmr2]

PTO lever safety?

 

[BakoJ]

I had some time today to troubleshoot. I was able to solve my issue. I tracked down an owner's manual and checked out the electrical section. I located the fuse box behind the black, cosmetic panel on the left side. There's a catastrophic 60 amp fuse before the starter. Then there's a small fuse box. I checked all of the fuses and one, 10 amp "con/switch" fuse was blown. I replaced it and the tractor started right up.

I still have a small leak underneath the engine and it continues at a drop per minute while running and immediately afterwards. At least I'll be able to move it.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions. All of your input will serve me well as I continue my rural journey. View attachment 730070View attachment 730069

View attachment 730072

 

[BakoJ]

Since multiple photos won't seem to upload, here's photo of the fuse box location.

 

[PCABE5]

I was just looking at your thread and owner's manual. I was going to have you check F1, F2, and F5 fuses. What you found was the F2 fuse blown for the controller and switch.

That controller would be on the right side of the dash somewhere behind the key switch and to the right. That should act as a master controller for all the safety switches and inputs. Without it the ECU should not get the start command from the controller.

 

[kormidoit]

Terrific....Now, why did it blow ??

 

[BakoJ]

Terrific....Now, why did it blow ??

Good question. I don't see any damage to wiring harnesses. I don't feel like we overloaded anything. It was idling when it quit.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Terrific....Now, why did it blow ??

It happens sometimes. Fuses like many things have a tolerance and that 10A may have actually only been good for 7-8A and the circuit may have required all 9Amps at one moment. I don't usually worry about 1 fuse being blown. Now obviously if it blows again in a few days or weeks, further investigation and troubleshooting will be needed.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

I had some time today to troubleshoot. I was able to solve my issue. I tracked down an owner's manual and checked out the electrical section. I located the fuse box behind the black, cosmetic panel on the left side. There's a catastrophic 60 amp fuse before the starter. Then there's a small fuse box. I checked all of the fuses and one, 10 amp "con/switch" fuse was blown. I replaced it and the tractor started right up.

I still have a small leak underneath the engine and it continues at a drop per minute while running and immediately afterwards. At least I'll be able to move it.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions. All of your input will serve me well as I continue my rural journey. View attachment 730070View attachment 730069View attachment 730071
View attachment 730072

Glad you got this figured out. Thank you for posting the solution to the problem, it helps us all.

 

[rodneyn]

Glad you got this figured out. Thank you for posting the solution to the problem, it helps us all.

If you continue to blow fuses look for worn wiring insulation. It appears the wiring harnesses on these Korean tractors are manufactured by the cheapest supplier. May not adhere to wire insulation specifications we take for granted in the good old USA. Same for fuses there are different grades of fuses that can be used. That is an ISO standard on fuses practiced globally.

 

[Texasmark]

I'm not familiar with your tractor at all and don't know the level of electronics it has but I would say the starting issue and the shutting down issue could very well not be related. For me, I'm always concerned when a diesel tractor shuts down for no reason. That's usually not good and it's a pretty good sign it's not gonna start back up. However i would think it would turn over. My recommendation is get it to the dealer unless you have a service manual and a good knowledge of working on tractors.

Only one I had shut down on me, a Ford 3000. Reason it ran out of fuel was because the strainer in the tank clogged completely.

 

[Texasmark]

I also have MT225S yes it hates cold weather. Noted on this board if you cycle glow plugs it will start better. I am in agreement but it still puffs a lot raw diesel for 30-40 seconds until motor is running smoothly in cold weather. Check your safety switches they can prevent motor from turning over. The MT225S is drive by wire throttle. Checking fuses and grounds is also wise suggestion. I have over 250 hours on my tractor it has been used primarily as yard mower with attached MMM. Only complaint I have is the plastic wheels on the MMM. Poor design on all four wheels. I have re-engineered the wheels adding swivel bearings and oil lite bronze bushing. The MMM does fantastic job mowing no disappointments running gear was poor design, cheaply designed.

A little side note: I use lawn mowers for my lawn. Do use a 3 pt rotary mower sometimes for field mowing. 3 reasons I don't have an MMM is 1. They limit ground height; 2. They are in the way, always underfoot; 3. They are a ***** to keep the deck clean in the spring when grass first comes out.

Actually I use the FEL on my 25s to lift my ZTs off the ground so that I can pressure wash the clippings off their decks. Real handy for that and you can move around anywhere and do the cleanout without making a huge mess in one spot.

 

[BakoJ]

Update: Trailered the tractor to the dealer. They are going to look at the oil leak and inspect the harnesses for damage. I'm not confident the dealer's service is going to be thorough or effective. This dealership is not primarily in the business of selling tractors. I knew that going in, but I also had conversations with the technicians and felt confident. After my interaction with the service manager, not so much now.

We will see what happens when I get the tractor back. I used it a fair amount last weekend and had no issues with stalling or fuses. It's a really useful tool and I am not regretting my purchase. LS makes a quality tractor. I think the dealer prep and support is my trouble here.

 

[Texasmark]

Update: Trailered the tractor to the dealer. They are going to look at the oil leak and inspect the harnesses for damage. I'm not confident the dealer's service is going to be thorough or effective. This dealership is not primarily in the business of selling tractors. I knew that going in, but I also had conversations with the technicians and felt confident. After my interaction with the service manager, not so much now.

We will see what happens when I get the tractor back. I used it a fair amount last weekend and had no issues with stalling or fuses. It's a really useful tool and I am not regretting my purchase. LS makes a quality tractor. I think the dealer prep and support is my trouble here.

I am really impressed with mine to the point that I took a $7k beating over retail on the purchase in the trade in. But the money is gone, the tractor is here and that is what matters. It does what it does!

 

[Cycledude]

A little side note: I use lawn mowers for my lawn. Do use a 3 pt rotary mower sometimes for field mowing. 3 reasons I don't have an MMM is 1. They limit ground height; 2. They are in the way, always underfoot; 3. They are a ***** to keep the deck clean in the spring when grass first comes out.

Actually I use the FEL on my 25s to lift my ZTs off the ground so that I can pressure wash the clippings off their decks. Real handy for that and you can move around anywhere and do the cleanout without making a huge mess in one spot.

Sorry for being off topic

How exactly are you using your FEL to clean the deck of your Zero Turn mower ? I run the front wheels of my Zero Turn up onto some 40+ year old steel car ramps and clean the bottom using a hand held scraper, yes it’s a miserable job ! For the top of the deck I use a leaf blower which takes about 2 minutes and works excellent.

 

[BakoJ]

Update: Looks like everything is squared away. I picked up the tractor last Thursday. Two hoses, one hydraulic and one radiator, were both leaking. Service ran the tractor for a half hour without leaks. I ran it at home for an hour and no leaks, so it looks like we're good. Service handled the repairs quickly and pleasantly.

Now I get to work.

 

[BakoJ]

Oh... And I got a new trailer! My single axle was right there on the edge of safe with the LS (FEL and backhoe removed). So I got a 7'x16', dual axle utility trailer with a 7k lb capacity.